custom stock cs500 oiling

[Blackmax]

My evolution is not orange . Could it be because it's beech
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o2fsaamnce...40718.png?dl=0

Possibly, some Evo's had beech stocks instead of walnut. I have a feeling the stock's turned an orangey as the lacquer aged giving them that colour with the walnut base. I've refinished two of mine to get rid of the lacquer and they look a lot better.

As for Danish oil it doesn't contain varnish nor is it a varnish, most contain a blend of oils, tung and boiled, driers such as natural turps and resins.

[bighit]

Why is it called ‘Danish’ Oil?

Historically the term Danish Oil seems to have appeared when Scandinavian furniture, protected with an attractive low sheen finish, began to be exported around the world during the second half of the 20th Century.

In America there are a number of manufacturers of ‘Danish Oil’ and each product has widely varying ingredients. They are comprised of many different combinations of natural and synthetic varnish and resins, mineral oil, tung oil, linseed oil, poppy oil, cotton oil, sunflower oil, white spirit, naptha, driers, anti-skin agents, etc etc! The actual non-evaporating ‘solids’ content of these products can be as low as 10%

We are based in the UK, and when we began manufacturing our own oil products for wood we decided to find out for ourselves what was available here as as Danish Oil. Generally in the UK we found that Danish Oil usually has a low sheen finish, with a drying time of 4-8 hours per coat. UK products are mainly Tung and/or Linseed oil based, although some use only vegetable oils and synthetic varnishes. Solids content of the best known brands is usually around 30-40%. We haven’t found any products (except ours) with 50% or more solids.
http://danish-oil.com/

They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

Their shop here. http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/danish-oil-250ml/

[thomas9784]

Why is it called ‘Danish’ Oil?

Historically the term Danish Oil seems to have appeared when Scandinavian furniture, protected with an attractive low sheen finish, began to be exported around the world during the second half of the 20th Century.

In America there are a number of manufacturers of ‘Danish Oil’ and each product has widely varying ingredients. They are comprised of many different combinations of natural and synthetic varnish and resins, mineral oil, tung oil, linseed oil, poppy oil, cotton oil, sunflower oil, white spirit, naptha, driers, anti-skin agents, etc etc! The actual non-evaporating ‘solids’ content of these products can be as low as 10%

We are based in the UK, and when we began manufacturing our own oil products for wood we decided to find out for ourselves what was available here as as Danish Oil. Generally in the UK we found that Danish Oil usually has a low sheen finish, with a drying time of 4-8 hours per coat. UK products are mainly Tung and/or Linseed oil based, although some use only vegetable oils and synthetic varnishes. Solids content of the best known brands is usually around 30-40%. We haven’t found any products (except ours) with 50% or more solids.
http://danish-oil.com/

They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

Their shop here. http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/danish-oil-250ml/

Currently selling on evilbay, saw it earlier and seamed very reasonably priced.

[bighit]

Currently selling on evilbay, saw it earlier and seamed very reasonably priced.

If I ever get the tru oil off my .22lr I may try it.

[Mark A]

Why is it called ‘Danish’ Oil?


They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

Their shop here. http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/danish-oil-250ml/

Yep, I was going to post the same. Most Danish oils are more of an oil based wipe on varnish that will create a surface film, which you don't really want if you're after an oil finish look.

I have used the bestwood oil and can confirm it is good stuff. You can actually smell the tung oil and not just the resins etc in the likes of Rustins.

I used tru oil on my last stock and that actually came out very nice. I wet sanded the first coat to fill the grain, then put a good few coats on and used the conditioning cream stuff to get a satin finish rather than gloss, then a coat of wax and it looks great. Although tru oil is another surface finish, its at least very hard compared to 'danish' oil, so will hold up much better.

[18 Wheeler]

...As for Danish oil it doesn't contain varnish nor is it a varnish, most contain a blend of oils, tung and boiled, driers such as natural turps and resins.

...They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

So what is varnish? Generally accepted as a blend of:
-a drying oil
-solvent, and
-solids (usually resin synthetic/organic) ...which "dries" by curing.

The linked product is:
-Tung Oil (a drying oil)
-Naphtha HH (solvent), and a
-metallic drying agent (Cobalt(II) ethylhexanoate)... which "dries" by curing.

Yes the proportions are variable, and quality varies between Danish Oils, but it's still a wiping varnish. An excellent, serviceable finish for a gun to be used in the field. It's what I use for the inletting in my rifles before I oil finish the outside.

[Mark A]

The Bestwood oil doesn't contain resin afaik, which is what makes it an oil rather than a varnish.

[bighit]

So what is varnish? Generally accepted as a blend of:
-a drying oil
-solvent, and
-solids (usually resin synthetic/organic) ...which "dries" by curing.

The linked product is:
-Tung Oil (a drying oil)
-Naphtha HH (solvent), and a
-metallic drying agent (Cobalt(II) ethylhexanoate)... which "dries" by curing.

Yes the proportions are variable, and quality varies between Danish Oils, but it's still a wiping varnish. An excellent, serviceable finish for a gun to be used in the field. It's what I use for the inletting in my rifles before I oil finish the outside.

email and ask them. They make it not me.

There is others that claim they don't use varnish.

This is what they say.

Where to use

Danish Oil can be used on almost any wooden surface, including interior and exterior furniture, doors, window frames, cladding, hardwood floors, skirting boards, gates, children’s play areas, kitchen worktops, turned wood, musical instruments and food preparation areas etc.

Bestwood Danish Oil is naturally water, food and alcohol resistant. It is safe for food contact when dry and can be used for wooden bowls, chopping boards and butchers blocks. It is certified EN71 toy safe. We do not use any synthetic or modified resins or varnish in our Danish Oil.

Danish Oil is simple to use and easy to maintain. Re-application of one or two thin coats every year will keep wood looking naturally ‘fresh’. Damaged or scratched areas can easily be maintained by reapplication of BestwoodDanish Oil.

Bestwood Danish Oil is suitable for use with all softwood and hardwood, including exterior oak and teak.

[bighit]

Some even go further in their claims as to what's in it
What does Danish Oil contain?

The ingredients contained in Danish Oil is extremely varied with each manufacturer having their own proprietary mixtures and percentages. However, most Danish Oils contain many of the following:

Toxic Waste
Mineral Spirits
Aromatic Petroleum Distillates
Mineral Oil
Stoddard Solvent
Tung Oil
Linseed Oil
Man-made and/or Natural Resins
Man-made and/or Natural Varnishes
Unspecified Vegetable Oil
Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether
Naptha
Japanese Dryers
Cobalt Dryers
Heavy Metal Dryers
A lesser quality Danish Oil will only have a 10% solids content (the actual drying oil) with the balance being primarily Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). Higher quality Danish Oils have more than a 50% solids content. For comparison, Dapwood uses natural oils with 100% solids content.

So what is wrong with Danish Oil?

The problem with today’s Danish Oil is not the “oil” at all but the other toxins that are put into it. In the race to make it cheaper and faster, industrial coating makers have cut back the oil and increased the other ingredients which are toxic. This is particularly troubling for the two different groups of people that are subjected to these harsh chemicals:
http://www.dapwood.com/danish-oil/

[18 Wheeler]

email and ask them. They make it not me...

No need.

Rather than just read the advertising blurb, which is well written for its intended purpose, I simply looked up the filed MSDS for the product and put the listed components in my previous post. HTH