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  1. #1
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    It looks like an Ox spring. To be honest, I wouldn't even use one of those as a gate closer. Definitely use a spring compressor when you strip it. The record trigger has to be removed by drifting out the two cross pins, make sure you keep a finger on the safety button when you remove it as it can spring out and get lost.


    Neil
    Current airguns:- Steyr LG110: Steyr LP10: Air Arms HFT500: Weihrauch97 fully customised.

  2. #2
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    I have an Hw35 arriving soon and it's first job will be to star in a strip-down video. If you're not sorted by then please watch the vid and ring me if needed. Or just ring over the weekend if you are terminally bored, it's quite possible there is very little preload and that is the cause of the twang

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by u.k.neil View Post
    It looks like an Ox spring. To be honest, I wouldn't even use one of those as a gate closer. Definitely use a spring compressor when you strip it. The record trigger has to be removed by drifting out the two cross pins, make sure you keep a finger on the safety button when you remove it as it can spring out and get lost.

    Neil
    Thanks for the info Neil, I suspected an Ox spring when I saw the cross section but wasn’t sure if any others were like that. I think that’s probably why the cocking effort is so hard !

    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post
    I have an Hw35 arriving soon and it's first job will be to star in a strip-down video. If you're not sorted by then please watch the vid and ring me if needed. Or just ring over the weekend if you are terminally bored!
    Haha, thanks for that even if I start I’d still like to see that video ! Out of interest do you do any of your famous tuning kits for one of these ?
    I’m guessing at the very least it’ll need a new spring, better spring guide and possibly a top hat !

    Norm

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    Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I値l see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

    Norm

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Fixit-Norm View Post
    Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I値l see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

    Norm
    If you watch the hw80 strip down video on the website it is essentially the same. The new 35 specific video will cover the spring room variation and how to work it out. This should save me an hour a week phone time.

    Remove trigger, unscrew rear block 3/4 of the way and you should be able to "feel" any preload by wiggling the trigger block, or if you are an advanced student, poking a screwdriver into the spring coils and testing the pressure.

    In honesty I would expect the spring to be rattling around in there by this point

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post
    If you watch the hw80 strip down video on the website it is essentially the same. The new 35 specific video will cover the spring room variation and how to work it out. This should save me an hour a week phone time.

    Remove trigger, unscrew rear block 3/4 of the way and you should be able to "feel" any preload by wiggling the trigger block, or if you are an advanced student, poking a screwdriver into the spring coils and testing the pressure.

    In honesty I would expect the spring to be rattling around in there by this point
    Where about is the video for the Hw80 strip down ?

    Not sure if I知 classed as an advanced student but I have stripped down an Original 66 and a 75 sorted them out including adjusting the mechanism to allow the 75 to fire. I did get quite a bit of help on here though

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Fixit-Norm View Post
    Where about is the video for the Hw80 strip down ?

    Not sure if I知 classed as an advanced student but I have stripped down an Original 66 and a 75 sorted them out including adjusting the mechanism to allow the 75 to fire. I did get quite a bit of help on here though
    Unfortunately I can't provide links to help members, but a quick google of tinbum or tbt along with air guns should take you in the right direction

    I have a youtube channel too, but that is full of silly, irrelevant nonsense! https://youtu.be/JiifU0Z-AVI

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Fixit-Norm View Post
    Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I値l see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

    Norm
    You can actually remove the rear block without removing the trigger, if you cock the trigger first.
    The trigger must be cocked without cocking the mechanism, if that makes any sense. It is done by pushing p on the sear in front of the trigger housing. When this is done, just unscrew the rear block, and be careful with the preload the spring may be under.
    Too many airguns!

  9. #9
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    CAUTION The slot were the trigger unit fits can have razor sharp edges. A few mins dressing them down saves the digits. I also make sure the trigger retaining pins slide back nicely.
    Founder & ex secretary of Rivington Riflemen.
    www.rivington-riflemen.uk

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by I. J. View Post
    CAUTION The slot were the trigger unit fits can have razor sharp edges. A few mins dressing them down saves the digits. I also make sure the trigger retaining pins slide back nicely.
    Cheers I.J. That trigger slot is certainly sharp ! I carefully took an old car points file to the edges and it痴 no longer a finger slicer

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