Walther LP53

[clarky]

The LP53 has an alloy outer barrel (people on here call it monkey metal,which is Zamak) and a steel rifled liner. The outer barrel cannot be blued with normal gun blue, but satin black spray paint makes a nice job of re-finishing these.I also fill in he Walther name with white paint which really sets it off. The Predom copy uses a solid steel barrel.

Baz

It actually is not zamak and monkey metal is brass..i think
The outer shroud of the 53 is pure cast aluminium which was chosen due to its ease of taking anodizing.....zamak will not take anodizing.

[tinbum]

It actually is not zamak and monkey metal is brass..i think
The outer shroud of the 53 is pure cast aluminium which was chosen due to its ease of taking anodizing.....zamak will not take anodizing.

That's lucky, cos my barrel is in the anodising shop tomorrow!

I used a cut down HW30 spring with a tiny top hat and over sleeved guide over the existing unit. It worked well, but I have a few more spring combo's to try when its all back together. I want the smoothest possible 420fps for clean cut holes in paper targets.

[Rickenbacker]

That's lucky, cos my barrel is in the anodising shop tomorrow!

I used a cut down HW30 spring with a tiny top hat and over sleeved guide over the existing unit. It worked well, but I have a few more spring combo's to try when its all back together. I want the smoothest possible 420fps for clean cut holes in paper targets.

I have a couple of spare OXen, from an HW80 if you want to give one a try.

[clarky]

That's lucky, cos my barrel is in the anodising shop tomorrow!

I used a cut down HW30 spring with a tiny top hat and over sleeved guide over the existing unit. It worked well, but I have a few more spring combo's to try when its all back together. I want the smoothest possible 420fps for clean cut holes in paper targets.

You can use a Cometa 50 or as you say a HW30 spring ground flat at each end and then polished to a glass finish with 600 grade.
Using 17 coils, i am able to use a combination of 16mm long top hat slide fit in the spring with 3mm shoulder ... barely more than 0.05mm clearance inside the 19.0 mm internal dia. of the piston ...or 18.85 mm.
The guide rod simply needs to be long enough to support the full lenght of the spring which is left outside the piston when the gun is fired.
Forget the idea of the Proteks kit of having a ver tight fit.....it robs far too much power and my nice sliding fits work with no vibration whatsoever but fully release the springs potential.
Work on 0.1mm of clearance over the existing guide for a nice slip or spinning fit with no play...
I used black delrin as white can be seen looking in through the grip slot.
I found that my stainless guides gave good recoil damping though....due to the weight but the top hat in stainless definately a little more slam...
You will definately run more than 420 fps with thos type of set up though...

[tinbum]

I have mentioned before, but I can't use black plastics due to arachnophobia.

Still, thanks for the advice on making spring guides, I'll take that into account. Maybe try a softer spring such as the HW45 if the 30 gives too much oomph?

[clarky]

I have mentioned before, but I can't use black plastics due to arachnophobia.

Still, thanks for the advice on making spring guides, I'll take that into account. Maybe try a softer spring such as the HW45 if the 30 gives too much oomph?

Im not sure on the 45 spring....i believe it does fit a HW30 but the Cometa spring had been tried and tested.
USe Tony Walls SL2 grease for lube . I have shot 1/2 inch groups with this set up ..Trouncing anyones effort with a 45 or any other recoiling springer pistol for that matter.

[Benelli B76]

[QUOTE=tinbum;7225869]That's lucky, cos my barrel is in the anodising shop tomorrow!

How are the edges of the breach and muzzle of the steel barrel are after the anodising process ?

Baz

[tinbum]

[QUOTE=Benelli B76;7227056]

That's lucky, cos my barrel is in the anodising shop tomorrow!

How are the edges of the breach and muzzle of the steel barrel are after the anodising process ?

Baz

I'm still waiting to see. Finger crossed.

[Benelli B76]

[QUOTE=tinbum;7227063]

I'm still waiting to see. Finger crossed.

If they can anodise it they will have to seal off the steel parts well. The muzzle is not too difficult as it is recessed.

Baz

[vbull]

In the past I've had the ally bits on these LP53's Cerakoted by Riflecraft which to my mind gives the best finish, similar to but better than the factory job and very hard wearing, it is expensive, so OK if you pick up the gun cheap due to cosmetic condition.

[clarky]

That's lucky, cos my barrel is in the anodising shop tomorrow!

I used a cut down HW30 spring with a tiny top hat and over sleeved guide over the existing unit. It worked well, but I have a few more spring combo's to try when its all back together. I want the smoothest possible 420fps for clean cut holes in paper targets.

I have run a few chrony shots for you with the springs i have with my Delrin/Stainless guides/Tophats

Protek power pod spring and their own nylon guide and their 12.5 gram weight. 438 fps Avg.
(I suppose within 15 fps of the mentioned 455 fps in the AGW article and pellet dependent ....fair enough)

Protek spring but with the crap Nylon guide chucked out (way too short and tight) replaced with my own precision stainless steel slide fitting guide and 18 gram top hat and 2mm increased pre load 487 fps
Most power set up.

P18 Konceptus spring and resized version of above stainless guide and top hat (16.8 Grams)
462 fps
This is a slightly weaker but longer spring than the Proteks spring but very well made and finished for very little cost.

P18 spring but precision slide fit Delrin guide and small location top hat 435 fps
Most accurate set up.

Proteks spring but using delrin guide and top hat as above ...im working on it ...

All shots based on 3 shot string avg with Falcon pellets...

[johnbaz]

It actually is not zamak and monkey metal is brass..i think
The outer shroud of the 53 is pure cast aluminium which was chosen due to its ease of taking anodizing.....zamak will not take anodizing.

Hi Clarky

I've not heard of brass being called Monkey metal, I've always known Zinc alloy (Carburetta bodies etc) as monkey metal as it's rather brittle!

Also heard of certain types of Bronze referred to as Pot metal, No idea why though!!


John

[Benelli B76]

Pot metal was the old name for pewter mostly tin content and they made pots and pans and items from it. The name was transferred on to Zamak (UK MAZAK Morris Ashby licence) as it looked similar but was completely different in make up. Any news on the anodising as I am very interested in the outcome ?

Baz

[harvey_s]

Pot metal was the old name for pewter mostly tin content and they made pots and pans and items from it. The name was transferred on to Zamak (UK MAZAK Morris Ashby licence) as it looked similar but was completely different in make up. Any news on the anodising as I am very interested in the outcome ?

Baz

Pot metal is the collective name for low-melting point alloys of zinc, tin and lead (melted in a pot)...nowt to do with pots & pans - they would make terrible pots and pans as they would just melt...
Later it came into general use to describe low quality die-cast zinc alloys as well - also called monkey metal for obvious reasons.

Zamak & Mazak are zinc/aluminium alloys some of which are appalling and some are very useful...years ago, they were unrepairable and poorly designed and thus also attracted the 'pot or monkey metal' moniker.
Nowadays they tend to better designed and alloyed with other metals to give better service although there is still some crap out there.

[Benelli B76]

Pot metal is the collective name for low-melting point alloys of zinc, tin and lead (melted in a pot)...nowt to do with pots & pans - they would make terrible pots and pans as they would just melt...
Later it came into general use to describe low quality die-cast zinc alloys as well - also called monkey metal for obvious reasons.

Zamak & Mazak are zinc/aluminium alloys some of which are appalling and some are very useful...years ago, they were unrepairable and poorly designed and thus also attracted the 'pot or monkey metal' moniker.
Nowadays they tend to better designed and alloyed with other metals to give better service although there is still some crap out there.

Nearly all the new CO2 pistols on the market today are made from Zamak 2,3,5, etc. All the Umarex range, and the new revolvers. Now some of the PCP rifles I am repairing have a few cast bits on them. Nothing wrong with it. I know the old mix they used like on my Schimels had a problem on some pistols.I like it because the old vintage pistols such as Smith &Wesson and Crosman have not rusted, like some of the Webleys I work on. Think I was the first to name Zamak on the BBS, was always called "pot metal" or "monkey metal" before on here. Anyway fed up with the arguments on this thread, will not be reading it anymore because nobody answers straight forward questions.

bye, bye Baz