How about some pictures ?
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How about some pictures ?
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
Nice one. I have one awaiting an overhaul, I was considering the synthetic seal and I think I will get one now. The transfer port might need sleeving down to get the best power though, the leather seal guns usually work with a wider port, so a synthetic will need a narrower one.
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How do you sleeve the transfer port?Originally Posted by Hsing-ee
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I'm thinking it sounds like there's too much spring in there, going by what you said about clamping, wrapping and preload.
Donald
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The Titan spring appeared to be the same length as the original spring, would cutting the spring down reduce the power? I'm open to any suggestions to improve it further.
The wrapping with string was reference to the trigger itself which has a 6 * 17mm spring at the back which has to be compressed to locate the dowel pin and is very difficult to clamp because of the shape, it was a lot easier to get the dowel pin in place once I had put in a spring made of 1mm wire rather than the standard 1.3mm, also the trigger now feels a lot better to me with a lighter pull.
Where's his User name?
How much preload was there before you started compressing the mainspring? Titan springs are regarded as one of the stiffer springs out there, so maybe trimming it a little would allow you to keep the power with less of the preload or even gain some power. I think power will go up when the leather seal beds in
Donald
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I didn't measure but maybe 50 - 60mm, it's a synthetic seal and has had about 400 pellets through and power is consistent. I'm not sure now I want to change anything as it is so accurate and enjoyable to shoot. If I could get some more power out of it without ruining the feel it would be nice but at 9.5 ftlbs it's very accurate to 40 yards.
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
I have never done it, you will have to ask Shed Tuner or T20.
I believe the method is to measure the diameter of your transfer port by sliding in the chuck ends of drill bits until you find on that fits. I am not 100% clear on measuring the length, but I would put something round and flat (washer maybe?) to block up the port from the inside with something behind it (disassembled of course) and then push the bit in until it stops, then mark off the length on the shank of the drill bit.
So now you have the diameter and length.
You then need to work out the static compression ratio which is the ratio of the transfer port volume to the swept volume of the cylinder. For a plastic sealed rifle I think this should be about 1:400 or something, but you will need to ask Shed or T about that. There are online programmes that will work out the volume of a cylinder for you quick as you like.
You then get a length of brass tubing of the correct length and internal diameter and external diameter, degrease it and the transfer port, press it in with a smidge of superglue, and there you are.
If you put 'transfer port' and 'sleeve' or 'TP and sleeve' or 'static compression ratio' into the search engine there are alot of posts on it.
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I was going to post some but I don't have permission to post attachments.
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