Help: Webley Premier seized up after introduction of neatsfoot oil

[gingernut]

Link to Premier strip. Note: you do not need any special technical aptitude to strip this pistol, just normal manual dexterity. If you can't tie your shoe laces, I wouldn't attempt it. If you can, you'll have no trouble.

This is the bit you need:

"Undo barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and lift barrel up and slide cocking arm out of its slot. Undo endcap (keeping pressure on ) and remove along with mainspring and piston."

Even I can do it!

[ggggr]

If you start to strip the pistol and get the endplug/ guide off, check for scoring/gouges in the cylinder. I have seen a few Webley pistols that have had modern lubes in them that the piston starts to dig into the cylinder on cocking. I did a Premier Mk2 for a bloke last year that needed a small rotary tool and a file to clean the gouges to enable the piston to come out. I used chainsaw oil to lubricate the thing, but any thickish mineral oil should be ok. I am not saying that is the problem, but worth checkking before using brute force and doing more damage.

[andrewM]

Even I can do it!

Thank you, all, for your assistance.

I have removed the barrel - simple enough. However, I cannot remove the end cap/plug at the end of the pistol (or front of the cylinder, to look at it another way). It appears to be an extremely thin join and there is no means of inserting a screwdriver into any gap to prise it apart. Equally, there is no means of turning it or screwing it, to undo it.

Thus, completely stuck - and not as simple as doing up a shoelace!

How do I remove the end cap?! Clearly, it does not just spring out.

Rgds
A

[clarky]

Thank you, all, for your assistance.

I have removed the barrel - simple enough. However, I cannot remove the end cap/plug at the end of the pistol (or front of the cylinder, to look at it another way). It appears to be an extremely thin join and there is no means of inserting a screwdriver into any gap to prise it apart. Equally, there is no means of turning it or screwing it, to undo it.

Thus, completely stuck - and not as simple as doing up a shoelace!

How do I remove the end cap?! Clearly, it does not just spring out.

Rgds
A

please do not try to remove the end cap at the rear sight end....you will destroy the gun....it was never meant to be touched after assembly.
Simple use your barrel....the pivot lug ...inserted into the front groove.....obviously its a perfect fit because thats where it operates and simply turn anticlockwise until the spring tension is released .

[Geezer]

What clarky said.

Find the idiots guide to airgun strips, and check out posts 26 and 27.

[andrewM]

No, I am not doing anything at the rear sight end but only the foresight end.

The problem is that the pivot lug will not budge it, despite the leverage of the barrel and if I place any further pressure on it, I might damage the barrel.

I have now introduced some WD40 to try to free it up and will give it another go in a few minutes.

Probably, it has jammed over the 40 odd years.

This all explains the confusion: I rather presumed I was on the right course but it would not budge.

Rgds
A

[webman]

It's possible that the end plug won't move because of the lacquer finish acting as a bond. I had a similar problem. I inserted a Stanley knife blade in the gap between the cylinder and end plug/barrel pivot and tapped it with a hammer to break the seal. I then gradually worked my way all the way round the joint, and the plug finally moved, but it still took a lot of effort.

[andrewM]

Still cannot budge it, despite introduction of WD40.

I will see what I can find in the tool shed tomorrow to persuade it to give.

A

[Shed tuner]

Still cannot budge it, despite introduction of WD40.

I will see what I can find in the tool shed tomorrow to persuade it to give.

A

A little heat (gently does it)... or a sharp tap with something non damaging

[ggggr]

No, I am not doing anything at the rear sight end but only the foresight end.

The problem is that the pivot lug will not budge it, despite the leverage of the barrel and if I place any further pressure on it, I might damage the barrel.

I have now introduced some WD40 to try to free it up and will give it another go in a few minutes.

Probably, it has jammed over the 40 odd years.

This all explains the confusion: I rather presumed I was on the right course but it would not budge.

Rgds
A

DON'T USE THE BARREL TO UNDO THE GUIDE! You will bend the barrel if the plug is tight. On the one I did (Mk2 really rough), I cut a thick piece of steel and held it in a vice and then turned the pistol. As has already been mentioned, a bit of heat helps. It might also help to try to tighten the guide a fraction first to break and bond. I have found that a couple of guns ( Premier M2 and the Junior Mk2) have been swines to undo, even though there did not seem to be lacquer sticking.

[johnbaz]

Maybe an open ended spanner with the rounded end in the plug slot that a sharp tap with another spanner to crack it?

A short sharp tap will always crack open easier than just sheer grunt pulling at it!!

Oh- Ensure you're turning anti clockwise too or you'll be making it tighter!!



John

[Mr. Gen]

....and purchase some slip on shoes quickly.

[hwtyger]

You sure it wasnt silicone based stuff? Silicone metal-to-metal is a no go, it'll seize
Seen various with breakbarrel seized after 'oiling'the braking joint with silicone..

[greasemonkey]

hi,i have stripped many webley pistols in the past but the only one that gave me real trouble was a late model black laquered premier.i tried everything but nothing worked until i heated the assembly red hot with the oxy acetaline.this obviously destroyed the finish and the spring.the finish didnt matter as i was nickel plating the pistol anyway.not helpful i know but just relating my experiences.good luck with the job,greasemonkey