You'll need some sort of spring compressor to remove and install the spring (I use a Sash clamp personally) to begin with.
Also, if you really want to tinker with it there's a very good article posted here on the "Useful Tips" section.
The time has come for my rusty old hw35 to have a spring change.I was thinking about doing it myself.What gear would i need to do this? . I have never changed a spring before but am determined to do it myself.I suppose a hands on approach is the best way of learning.
You'll need some sort of spring compressor to remove and install the spring (I use a Sash clamp personally) to begin with.
Also, if you really want to tinker with it there's a very good article posted here on the "Useful Tips" section.
I did an HW35 last week - I used a sash cramp and then draped a welding glove over each jaw (chosen simply because they were the nearest items to hand!) to protect the action.
Procedure:
Tighten the cramp and knock out the two pins
Undo the end block half a turn.
Back off the cramp a little, undo the block again.
Check that the action is still correctly aligned in the cramp and repeat until the block is out.
Hope that helps!
don't need a compressor for my hw35k,easy as doing a hw80.....but then again i have non standard internals in my ickle 35(except for the piston body)!
buy a v-mach stage 1 kit direct from steve pope(£58 and make sure your barrel latch has very little wear on it also make sure it has a nylon piston seal).
i asked steve about minimal cocking effort and he gave me an option of 2 springs(a lazaglide spring that when uncompressed fits half inch inside the rear of the cylinder or a slightly longer but softer spring...i opted for the lazaglide spring as it doesnt need a compressor).
if you have a longer stiffer spring and no compressor then i'd suggest putting a newspaper on the floor,strip the gun including removing the trigger unit,unscrew the cylinder block till you have at least 4 or 5 full turns.
place the block/trigger end of the action on the newspaper,place a spanner into the trigger unit slot making sure its not interfering with end of the compression cylinder,hold the spanner inbetween your feet(wear boots/gloves if you feel the need to) then slowly turn the action so you unscrew the block.
when the block becomes fully unscrewed,the spring will go to its full length but it will have the weight of the whole action to damp the effect.....its the best way if you havent got a compressor.
if you arent sure about doing it and you get a v-mach kit i'll tune the action and fit the kit for you......just cover the postage both ways
Use a proper drift to knock pins out, not bent nails or old screwdrivers..!
Gus
The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.
thanks guys
And be methodical. Lay all the bits you remove out in the order they were removed.
It's then a simple job of working backwards.
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