Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19

Thread: Spring compressors for a, er, spring change

  1. #1
    pgakister Guest

    Spring compressors for a, er, spring change

    Before I attempt a spring change, thought i would invest in one of these. I am a coward and have a strong desire to keep my skin on my body.

    Are the standard automotive ones too large? They look it to me. If so, what do people use?

    Cheers


    Pete

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Liskeard, Cornwall
    Posts
    14,313
    Try and get a S/H carpenter's sash cramp from a car-boot sale, or a S/H shop.
    Screw it to a piece of wood, and off you go..! Some springers, like the TX200s don't need 'em.

    Gus
    The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    12,379
    what rifle is it that needs a spring change?

  4. #4
    pgakister Guest
    Well there will be a 95k first, followed by a 97k at some time in the future

    Pete

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Amlwch, Anglesey
    Posts
    30,416
    As Gwylan said a sash clamp is the best way to go.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Is it easier to remove the barrel first before fitting in a sash clamp ?

    As I find that trying to keep the gun in postion whilst compressing the spring is awkward and can mark the gun as the compression gets greater, sometimes i find the gun wants vear left or right - Gas struts I usually send to a professional - Removing the spring i find is easier.

    What do you guys use to protect the guns surface when compressing ?

    Cheers

  7. #7
    Guppsta Guest

    Try this.

    Have a look at THIS m8, it'll give you an idea of how to make one.
    Dazz

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Liskeard, Cornwall
    Posts
    14,313
    Lots of good info on Guppsta's link. I use cable ties as a quick method of holding the gun in place, and plastic insulating tape on metal cramp surfaces. Some rifles you have to leave the barrel on, (all underlevers..!) so make sure your clamp/compressor is long enough.

    Gus
    The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.

  9. #9
    Guppsta Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Gwylan View Post
    Lots of good info on Guppsta's link. I use cable ties as a quick method of holding the gun in place, and plastic insulating tape on metal cramp surfaces. Some rifles you have to leave the barrel on, (all underlevers..!) so make sure your clamp/compressor is long enough.

    Gus
    I found it out cos im going to build one my self when i get time, i did have a more detailed link but it seems to have dissapeared.
    Dazz.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    12,379
    never really needed 1 on my 95,there isnt that much preload.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Scarborough, N Yorks
    Posts
    18,983
    I'll try and describe my spring compressor. It's all wood and doesn't risk marking the gun (Gamo CFX).

    Lay the action on bench (length of action down length of bench and screw two blocks of scrap wood, one each side of barrel, so that breech end of cylinder can butt against them.

    Two more blocks, one either side of trigger end of action to prevent movement side to side.

    Take a piece of approx 1 1/2" x 3/4" x about 2feet long. Screw one end to bench, with screw (forming a pivot) approx 8" towards rear of bench and approx 2" behind rear plug of action. Add suitable packing between this lever and end plug and lean on lever to compress spring, then you can use both hands to remove plug retaining bolt or pin.

    Sorry if it's a poor description, I was trained in heavy electrics, not English!
    The CFX required about 10lbs to compress the spring and unloaded, it projected about 1 1/2" out of cylinder. I imagine other springers will be similar.

    I should have taken a photo, but hindsight is always 20/20!
    Walther CP-2 Match, FAS 604 & Tau 7 target pistols, Smith & Wesson 6" & 4" co2 pistol, Crosman 1377,
    Baikal IZH 53 pistol, Gamo CFX Royal,177, Umarex SA-10 CO2 pistol.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wolverhampton
    Posts
    4,706
    Here's a guide with photo's I did for the FWB 124, I suppose it could work with other springers?
    WEBPAGE HERE

    Nige

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Thanks for all the info guys, wish my wood work skills were as good as yours Nige52 , i noticed that the c clamps / sash clamps are different to mine,.

    A c clamp doesn't appear right unless you cut part of the clamp off then youve got to mount it sash clamps usually fit on en edge are there any clamps for sale that are L shaped that can be fitted straight into place ?

    Any links to good clamps to use would be welcome.

    Paul

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Harold Wood, Essex
    Posts
    382
    Paul,

    I am in the process of making a spring compressor and bought a cheap 6" G-clamp (5.00 from B & Q), and was expecting it to be a complete pain in the backside to cut & drill to end up with the same kind of thing as pictured in the link that Guppsta posted. In reality all you need is a decent hacksaw (full size, not junior) and an HSS drill bit and some 3-in-1 oil. It took me about 3-4 mins to cut though the clamp when held in a bench vice, and as long as you go fairly slowly with the drilling and use a bit of oil to stop the drill bit from overheating it goes through easily enough. I wanted 7mm dia holes so started with a 4.5mm drill bit first, then went through again with the larger drill bit.
    If you do use a G-clamp cut down to make an L shape, note that a strip of timber is used in that spring compressor to space it away from the base bit of timber board.
    Macarri Mongoose FWB Sport 124, Tasco Golden Antler 3-9x40

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    An Clachan
    Posts
    20,548
    Quote Originally Posted by ikarma70 View Post
    never really needed 1 on my 95,there isnt that much preload.
    I agree also as you have to twist the end piece out which is tricky with some compressors that require the cylender to be restrained. Piece of cork on the flat of the hand, arm stright (holding the cylinder upright with transfer port resting on some card board on the ground) and press down with the stright arm and corked hand, then use the free hand to twist the cylinder. Not much pre load. I did my new .20 yesterday and managed to close it off with both hands only. The piece of cork helps grip the flat end when twisting.
    ATB
    Willie

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 22-08-2006, 03:40 PM
  2. Shortening a Spring Gun's Spring ...
    By Gungeek in forum General Airgun.
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 27-06-2006, 11:57 AM
  3. spring change help
    By norbert in forum General Airgun.
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 25-06-2006, 09:48 AM
  4. Spring has Spring care of Robin!!
    By ora8i in forum General Airgun.
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-06-2006, 06:37 PM
  5. HW45 Spring/Piston Seal change
    By Rumplestiltskin in forum General Airgun.
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 30-01-2005, 11:18 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •