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Thread: SILICONE OIL DAMAGE Part2

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gatito View Post
    Thanks

    Action off and acetone out tonight
    The acetone should shift it. Might be worth trying in on a test bit of metal first, acetone can also bugger plastic and rubber, so be careful.

  2. #2
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    Gatito: If you have only been using to protect a surface (rather than as a lubricant) I wouldn't bother. From what Ben has said this stuff kills quickly so if it was anywhere where it could do its nasty deed it will have done it already. I'd just wipe it over with a clean cloth and then wipe over some nice safe gun oil

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pod View Post
    Gatito: If you have only been using to protect a surface (rather than as a lubricant) I wouldn't bother. From what Ben has said this stuff kills quickly so if it was anywhere where it could do its nasty deed it will have done it already. I'd just wipe it over with a clean cloth and then wipe over some nice safe gun oil
    Just seen this

    What do I do???

  4. #4
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    Silicon oil actually soaks into the metal, and as Ben has rightly said the only way to remove it, is to remove the contaminated metal by grinding it off. You cannot remove it with any solvent I've ever seen, and I've used solvents that would stop you breathing if you got a whiff of them.

    If you find that hard to believe, how about this, metal has also got a grain pattern.

    Silicon oil has it's uses, but should only ever be used in very tiny amounts, it is ok to use one tiny drop on a sythentic piston seal in a springer, as mineral oil would diesel and possibly soften the piston seal material, also another accepted fact is silicon oil won't ignite and cause dieseling, wrong, if you use much more than a small drop it goes bang like any other oil.

    There always semes to be a tendency to overdo the lubrication on airguns, less is more as our american cousins love to say.

    Gatito don't panic, I have found some gun finishes can be damaged by mineral oil, but silicone oil is ok for most finishes, just a hint of it on a cloth will do the job.


    Ben

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by master_shriller View Post
    Silicon oil actually soaks into the metal,
    You live and learn. I knew steel could absorb carbon to toughen it and hydrogen to embrittle it, but never heard of it absorbing a liquid before, well, not beyond the surface cracks. Rust pits would soon gob it out so that ain't it.

    Brake disks are a bit different being cast iron with a spot of magnesium. I can see how they might absorb a bit into the slag inclusion

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by master_shriller View Post
    Silicon oil actually soaks into the metal, and as Ben has rightly said the only way to remove it, is to remove the contaminated metal by grinding. You cannot remove it with any solvent I've ever seen, and I've used solvents that would stop you breathing if you got a whiff of them.

    If you find that hard to believe, how about this, metal has also got grain, not unlike wood.

    Silicon oil has it's uses, but should only ever be used in very tiny amounts, it is ok to use one tiny drop on a sythentic piston in a springer, as mineral oil would diesel and possibly soften the piston material, also another accepted fact is silicon oil wont ignite and cause dieseling, wrong, if you use much more than a small drop it goes bang like any other oil.

    There always semes to be a tendency to overdo the lubrication on airguns, less is more as our american cousins love to say.

    Gatito don't panic, I have found some gun finishes can be damaged by mineral oil, but silicone oil is ok for most finishes, just a hint of it on a cloth will do the job.


    Ben
    Thanks Gents

    Just found this http://www.struers-solutions.com/res...006-01-06).pdf it's an MSDS for silicone oil - seems to be dissolved in paraffin - any chemists around? Is paraffin the solvent for those who've got problems with the iinternals? Paraffin bath? Leave stuff in for a couple of days? For anyone who's got something that's already b*ggered, perhaps there's nothing to lose by trying it out?

    Luckily, I've only given mine a single very sparing wipedown but I'll be giving it a wipe over with paraffin (and acetone) tonight just in case.

  7. #7
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    Daystate Rangefinder oil

    Please can someone tell me what kind of oil it is?

    Cam

  8. #8
    bennyblanco Guest
    i tried a silicon destruction test on the lathe today and it is frightening how quick it starts grabbing and chewing metal


    i have had a bottle for a couple of years and am now really worried about what its got into.

    i also hope it doesn't cause dermatitis as i have also found another use


    ben

  9. #9
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    I tried test in lathe with Comma silicon spray, it did not grab or siese, this was with high tensile chrome-moby steel as was all I had to hand at time.

    We use u-pol system 20, it is toted as anti-silicon, remembered now that friend used acetone to remove also. There should be other degreasers that remove it as it is a problem in car respraying

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by snoj View Post
    The acetone should shift it. Might be worth trying in on a test bit of metal first, acetone can also bugger plastic and rubber, so be careful.
    Yes, nasty stuff if you get it on plastics and rubber but I'd rather strip the bluing than have silicone migrating from the externals to the internals!

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