Uberti 1861 Navy Colt-Dismantling

[Tiff-of-old]

As the title says really........I am a completely new to this and have just picked up the pistol from the gunroom, after months of waiting for my variation. I have removed the screw and wedge, so where do I go from here Only want to be able to remove the barrel and cylinder and not the whole trigger mech etc. Any help much appreciated.

[Smokeless Coal]

https://store.bluebookinc.com/Info/P...olverParts.pdf

Once the wedge is out the barrel assy should just slide forwards so you can then slide the cylinder off. Might need a tap with a mallet if its tight.

[Tiff-of-old]

Thanks. Where should I 'tap' it with a rubber mallet? Also what state should the loading lever be in when I pull the barrel assembly off?

[Smokeless Coal]

I'd be inclined to drop the lever though it should not matter. The tightness can only be the spindle in the barrel assy or the two pins at the bottom.

If it has not been stripped for a while I expect its gum or light rust on the spindle stopping it from coming apart. Once stripped and oiled you will find it pulls apart dead easy.

You could try some WD40 around the spindle to help it come apart before using the mallet.

Drop the lever, grip the barrel and tap either side of the front of the cylinder.

[Tiff-of-old]

Thank you for your help. Its now been stripped, oiled and reassembled It was simply a slight bit of muck on the two pins at the bottom of the frame.

[DJS]

The loading lever can be used to push the barrel off if you position the cylinder so that the rammer is between two chambers. Also you don't need to remove the screw above the wedge.
Daz

[john paul]

The wedge was a swine to remove on mine. Assuming you have greased it now for ease of removal, I use Remington Wonder Lube on mine, you my find that removing it again my be problematic. I use a brass key (won't damage the steel) hold it against the wedge and give it a firm tap. I rest the pistol barrel on a wooden block covered with a cloth. You can also use a flattened .308 cartridge case that also works well.
Always keep a rubber hammer in your shooting box, as those wedges have a habit of moving out.
Are you using B/P or a sub?

[Tiff-of-old]

Haven't sorted out my BP licence yet, so 777 for the time being. Anybody got any suggestions as to a lightish loads for use with .375 Hornady balls. Thanks for the help so far.

[john paul]

I find that my .36 Colt Navy 61 shoots best with Pyrodex P 18g by volume,
very eratic with 777, however .44 Remington groups best with 24g 777.
Pyrodex P much cheaper than 777 and cleaning regime the same.
Pyrodex P approx £19.00, 777 approx £34. The price of 777 has risen the first container I bought about 2yrs ago was approx £21.00. Pyrodex seems to have remained constant.
If using 777 in your .36 knock down the amount by at least 15%, as more powerful than the real stuff. If its a brass framed pistol I would be inclined to aviod 777. Pyrodex P though suppose to be the same as BP, so equal volume.
I found 15g of 777 in my Colt gave pretty fair groups, though as mentioned best results with Pyrodex P.
What you want to get is an adjustable brass powder measure and some glass phials this way you get better consistency. Measure out prior to leaving home and you will find less messing around with a flask at the range.

[Smokeless Coal]

A 9mm cartridge case holds 12gr of BP by vol. 777 in the same case would be about equivilent to 14 gr BP so should do for a moderate start load.