Hawk 10x42 tactical (First Impression)

[bullet boy]

no reflection of IR in the tube, really good ret when illuminated, very sharp, doesnt blur once lit either.

i use it for shooting in low light - find it to be perfectly fine.

Thankyou dean.This scope could probably be the best value for money scope on the Market today?!

[deano]

i dertainly rate it very highly, and think that there is very few scopes on the market in this price bracket that can compete.

[Spanner.]

Well I have recently bought two, a 6.5 -20 for the HMR and an 8.5 - 25 for my 22 - 250 and I must say I am very very impressed with their glass and build. Sold a Schmidt of my 22 - 250 simply because its usage didn't reflect its value but this has been a great replacement. The BRC data is a real bonus also.

[deano]

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yeah, the BRC data seems to tie in quite well with my HMR trajectory and half-mil ret, just allows an extra dimension to the scope, hope they continue with this line of scopes for a while.

how's the half-mil's pan out for the 22-250, take it you're only using the first one out to 300yds!!

[Spanner.]

Summat like

[deano]

fancy getting another to put on the CF! i reckon it would work well on .243, so might pop one on to see.

[bullet boy]

fancy getting another to put on the CF! i reckon it would work well on .243, so might pop one on to see.

What a 10x42 one again or a variable Hawke Tac?

[Petervw]

did anyone compare the 10x42 with a Mamba Lite ?
I'm looking for a better hft scope , I have a Hawke Airmax SR6 now

Peter

[Petervw]

very nice scope, will indeed work great for hft
good depth of view and nice reticle

Peter

[markha]

[QUOTE=poison dwarf;4136669]Hawk 10x42 tactical from a HFT perspective ( First Impression)


Setting the parallax for HFT shooting ( I chose 25 yards) You can get the crosshair to move out of a 40mm kill at 10 yds by moving your head. So head position for shorter tartgets is critical.

QUOTE]


Basically, if you do the 'head bob' and your reticle appears to move when you move your head/eye up and down and side to side there is one thing wrong, and it aint the scope.

Basically you have not matched the front lense focus with the eye piece focus correctly and the scope is not set paralax free at your intended range.

It is imperative when setting up paralax adjustable scopes that you get the eye focus right as the very 1st step, Ignore what they tell you about setting focus to infinity and pointing scope at the sky then getting a sharp cross hair image, that is not correct.

Point you scope at a target at 15yds, paralax set for infinity, now adjust eye piece focus until crosshairs are sharp, note: if you wear glasses you must wear them when looking through the scope as it will all go to #### trying to get rid of paralax if you dont!
Next start to use adjust the paralax until the target is sharp, forget about the crosshairs being sharp, once target is sharp then adjust eyepiece agin untill crosshairs and target are both sharp, this will now be paralax free at that range, do the head bob and side to side and if there is still movement of crosshair repeat or adgust paralaxe and eyepiece again, its the eyepiece focus that is the key to getting rid of paralax.

If I try this without mu glasses on I can get the yepeice focused up great, but once I adjust the sidewheel to get target in focus it al looks good untill I mofe my head around, then, like you say, the crosshairs move.
But if I do this with my glasses on, im short sighted, then I have no problems at all, target ans crosshairs all rock solid.

Cheers
Mark

[rogb]

[quote=markha;4470515]

Hawk 10x42 tactical from a HFT perspective ( First Impression)


Setting the parallax for HFT shooting ( I chose 25 yards) You can get the crosshair to move out of a 40mm kill at 10 yds by moving your head. So head position for shorter tartgets is critical.

QUOTE]


Basically, if you do the 'head bob' and your reticle appears to move when you move your head/eye up and down and side to side there is one thing wrong, and it aint the scope.

Basically you have not matched the front lense focus with the eye piece focus correctly and the scope is not set paralax free at your intended range.

It is imperative when setting up paralax adjustable scopes that you get the eye focus right as the very 1st step, Ignore what they tell you about setting focus to infinity and pointing scope at the sky then getting a sharp cross hair image, that is not correct.

Point you scope at a target at 15yds, paralax set for infinity, now adjust eye piece focus until crosshairs are sharp, note: if you wear glasses you must wear them when looking through the scope as it will all go to #### trying to get rid of paralax if you dont!
Next start to use adjust the paralax until the target is sharp, forget about the crosshairs being sharp, once target is sharp then adjust eyepiece agin untill crosshairs and target are both sharp, this will now be paralax free at that range, do the head bob and side to side and if there is still movement of crosshair repeat or adgust paralaxe and eyepiece again, its the eyepiece focus that is the key to getting rid of paralax.

If I try this without mu glasses on I can get the yepeice focused up great, but once I adjust the sidewheel to get target in focus it al looks good untill I mofe my head around, then, like you say, the crosshairs move.
But if I do this with my glasses on, im short sighted, then I have no problems at all, target ans crosshairs all rock solid.

Cheers
Mark

Good point but this review is mostly about using the scope for HFT (for which it was designed (IIRC) )where PA adjustment is not allowed after the first shot, so a middle ground PA is used, say 25 yards, so the close and far targets (8 - 45 yards) are blurred. Its all about depth of field

I looked through one last weekend and I was VERY impressed with the clarity DOF and the ret, VERY impressed. I couldn't get much PA error going at all

[gasman1]

ive got the 4.5-14x42 on my springer. i was that impressed with it that i got the 10x42 for my hft rig. awesome scope for the money. ive found that i dont get parralax error at all. its cos i have to have my head in exactly the same place every time to see through it. if my heads not right, the sight picture seems dull. once its right its crystal clear and bang on target. the half mil dot ret is great too. they should do the hft special 4.5-14x38 sr6 in a mil dot too. they'd sell thousands more. hopefully, thats already in the pipe line. you could sit it propa low to the barrel.

[Petervw]

can anyone tell me how the depth of view of the 4.5-14x42 is at 8x ?
I have the 10x42 and use it for HFT, works fine but at a match last weekend they put some targets at 8 yards and the kilzones where too blurry
I would like to switch to a 4.5-14 one if I know that it will give proper viem from 8-45 yards at 8x
I expect to gain more at the short targets than to loose at the far ones which will look smaller at 8x
or maybe we could change the HFT distances from 8-45 to 12-45 , so I can stick to the 10x42

Thanks
Peter

[LANKY MK]

can anyone tell me how the depth of view of the 4.5-14x42 is at 8x ?
I have the 10x42 and use it for HFT, works fine but at a match last weekend they put some targets at 8 yards and the kilzones where too blurry
I would like to switch to a 4.5-14 one if I know that it will give proper viem from 8-45 yards at 8x
I expect to gain more at the short targets than to loose at the far ones which will look smaller at 8x
or maybe we could change the HFT distances from 8-45 to 12-45 , so I can stick to the 10x42

Thanks
Peter

Ive got my TAC 30 10x42 parralaxed at 24 yards (ish) and i have no probs from 8 yards out to 55+ yards, yes the 8 yard target is blurred abit but still good enough to get the kill zone.

I know if i wanted to i cud drop my parrelax down to make them better (since HFT is only upto 45 yards) but i dont feel the need (plus the blur helps to identify when a target is below 15 yards), whats your parrelax set at?

Maybe our eyes are very differant.


Mark

[Petervw]

mine is set just a bit under the 25 mark, I would say 22 or 20
when I adjust it to get better view on the close ones I can't find the hitzone on the long ones
maybe its me ...

Peter