Manual; repair of Diana double piston systems

[Retracted_Yeti]

Havelock Vetinary;
You can download the english version on this link (MSWord file).
/ Micke

Thank you Micke1, I have this file already(thank you very much), I was just trying to help, did not mean to stand on your toes my friend.

No offence intended.

ATB.

Roy.

[Micke1]

I didn't think so. Then we can join up, trying to save excellent old mechanics from being put away or thrown away because it's expensive to have then repaired by a gunsmith or Diana. The price for a repair by Dianawerk is €170+, which is more than the value of the gun. The price is not unreasonable considering the work time, but I hate to see the fine old guns being trashed just because they are a little difficult to fix. That's why I wrote the manual.

Feel free to copy or distribute it to anyone...


Best regards,

/ Micke

[Retracted_Yeti]

I didn't think so. Then we can join up, trying to save excellent old mechanics from being put away or thrown away because it's expensive to have then repaired by a gunsmith or Diana. The price for a repair by Dianawerk is €170+, which is more than the value of the gun. The price is not unreasonable considering the work time, but I hate to see the fine old guns being trashed just because they are a little difficult to fix. That's why I wrote the manual.

Feel free to copy or distribute it to anyone...


Best regards,

/ Micke

Nice one Micke!

ATB.

Roy.

[Benelli B76]

I do not find repairing these pistols and rifles difficult anymore.Have just done a Diana/Original 66 rifle and previously a couple of 6M'S. I do not use the manual just have my own system of stripping and re-assembling which includes marking the gear teeth positions with a dremel tool before dis-assembly, and using a standard sash clamp with some spacers to compress the new springs and pistons back into the right position. Works a treat.

Baz

[m-ze]

I have a 75 manual in English that I could copy when I get my scanner up running if any one wants one.

Yes please.

Email to vsd@telkomsa.net

Regards
Vincent

[Phil Russell]

Yes please.

Email to vsd@telkomsa.net

Regards
Vincent

If the offer is still open, yes please:
Phil.E.Russell@btinternet.com

Cheers, Phil

[thisisdonald]

Yes please mate
Thisisdonald@gmail.com

[Garvin]

I've also posted one up HERE.

[dalwhinie]

I do not find repairing these pistols and rifles difficult anymore.Have just done a Diana/Original 66 rifle and previously a couple of 6M'S. I do not use the manual just have my own system of stripping and re-assembling which includes marking the gear teeth positions with a dremel tool before dis-assembly, and using a standard sash clamp with some spacers to compress the new springs and pistons back into the right position. Works a treat.

Baz

Hi Baz, tried to message you but your inbox is full! Could you contact me about your methods to service a Diana 75 please. Cheers.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Micke1 and the rest of you wonderful guys, this couldn't have come along at a more exact moment ! After stripping an Original 75 back in September last year which wouldn't cock, and given to me by a late friend to try and repair ( and for me to keep ! ) two things went wrong, firstly I should have taken photos or made notes of where bits went and secondly, I shouldn't have left it 5 months to start putting it back together

Anyway, I found out what was stopping it from cocking, one of the lead in teeth from the from the compression piston rack had broken off and jammed the mechanism. Having stripped the Giss system and sorted out the "gouge" in the rear compensation piston, last Saturday I decided to start reassembling it, now here's where the problem began..... I didn't have any problem reassembling the Giss system as I fully restored a 65/66 about two years ago, what is causing me problems is putting the trigger mechanism back together.

I think from the hand drawn image in the Swedish 75 manual, I've got to have the gun fully cocked to install the trigger parts, is this correct? I did assemble it with the gun uncocked but when I tried to cock it ( even slowly and gently ) part 21 the rear hook broke where the small "sear" goes through the action.

I almost put it all in the bin at this point, but decided I owe it to the memory of my late friend to have one more go so I've ordered a new part from Chambers ( £28 ) and will try again, so chaps, any help or tips on reassembling the trigger mech would be most appreciated as I can't afford to replace any more parts.


Cheers,

Norm

[Benelli B76]

Hi Baz, tried to message you but your inbox is full! Could you contact me about your methods to service a Diana 75 please. Cheers.

I have cleared inbox. I have never repaired a 75 only 66 rifle and model 6 pistols. The difference between the triggers on the side lever and barrel cocking models I am not sure of. The piston seal replacement should be the same. The piston seals are made of polyurethane and not cork as mentioned at the beginning of the thread. The old ones break up due to Polyester Polyurethane bacteria degradation which used to happen after a prolonged period of time and also takes place in a lot of old BSA air rifle buffer washers and breach seals. Send me a PM if you want info on how I get the gears and racks into the correct position on re-assembly. Incorrect placement of the teeth causes one or two to break off as apparently happened on the 75 recently mentioned.

Baz

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Hi Baz,

Thanks for the offer, to be honest having stripped and restored an Original 65 ( with a 66 target stock ! ) I don't have much of a problem setting up the giss system, what's driving me nuts is reinstalling the trigger mechanism
Because of the linkage from the side lever anti bear trap mechanism to the trigger end seems way more complicated than the 66's trigger. What I really need is a clear side view drawing of the correct position of all the trigger parts so that I can make sure they're in the right position, also whether the gun needs to be cocked / half cocked / uncocked when they're being put back.

Norm

[u.k.neil]

Micke1 and the rest of you wonderful guys, this couldn't have come along at a more exact moment ! After stripping an Original 75 back in September last year which wouldn't cock, and given to me by a late friend to try and repair ( and for me to keep ! ) two things went wrong, firstly I should have taken photos or made notes of where bits went and secondly, I shouldn't have left it 5 months to start putting it back together

Anyway, I found out what was stopping it from cocking, one of the lead in teeth from the from the compression piston rack had broken off and jammed the mechanism. Having stripped the Giss system and sorted out the "gouge" in the rear compensation piston, last Saturday I decided to start reassembling it, now here's where the problem began..... I didn't have any problem reassembling the Giss system as I fully restored a 65/66 about two years ago, what is causing me problems is putting the trigger mechanism back together.

I think from the hand drawn image in the Swedish 75 manual, I've got to have the gun fully cocked to install the trigger parts, is this correct? I did assemble it with the gun uncocked but when I tried to cock it ( even slowly and gently ) part 21 the rear hook broke where the small "sear" goes through the action.

I almost put it all in the bin at this point, but decided I owe it to the memory of my late friend to have one more go so I've ordered a new part from Chambers ( £28 ) and will try again, so chaps, any help or tips on reassembling the trigger mech would be most appreciated as I can't afford to replace any more parts.


Cheers,

Norm

hi Norm

I covered the 75 in a feature in Airgunner magazine quite a while ago along with a load of photographs. It is too big a file to e-mail, but if you P.M. me your address I will mail you a hard copy.

Neil

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Hi Neil,

Strip down & rebuild guide arrived today, looks pretty comprehensive, haven't checked out the cd yet but the paper copy is nicely detailed, many thanks for that. I'm hoping to have another go at putting it together this week end ......fingers crossed.

Best regards,

Norm

[abellringer]

Lots of great info here as well as links. However on the subject of 'tools' I made one of the insertion tools as per a Mod 65 manual and have used it for some 35 years with little trouble, but you have to put one cogwheel and cover in place and position the front piston on to it to start with and then the rear piston and mainsprings can be inserted at a slight angle to miss the first cog wheel assy. any attempt to 'buckle' by the mainspring can be rectified with a screwdriver inserted into the remaining cog wheel hole and pressure applied to straighten the springs; then the assy is pushed in to place [not too difficult] and turned to 'lock' on to the first cog wheel, hold the pressure, then the second assy can be fitted, and the pressure released. Obviously factory tolerances have to be maintained as per manufacturers advice for final assy to avoid any damage.
Now I'm going back to look at some of the links and info. Great thread guys.
abellringer