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Thread: Pesersoli .44 1858

  1. #1
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    Pesersoli .44 1858

    Alright,

    Just by chance I have picked up one of these which needed some attention. The pistol won't index (the bolt does not move down fully when hammer drawn back so jams) but I think I've fathomed the issue, just need a couple of parts.

    Anyone know a dealer in UK? Have looked at Kranks and they dont seem to list the Pedersoli spares.

    Regards,

    Diehard

  2. #2
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    I've gotten great service by writing to Davide Pedersoli direct, and telling them what is wrong. Apart from Kranks, and maybe Peter Dyson [whose spares need fitting] I don't bleeve there is anybody in the UK who can help you out here.

    tac
    Last edited by tacfoley; 20-01-2013 at 11:35 AM.

  3. #3
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    Cheers for the advice tac, ill have a look.

  4. #4
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    What you are looking for is called the hand & spring assembly.

    What date is your revolver? Look for a couple of letters and/or Roman numerals in a square box - NOT 'PV' - that just means Black Powder proof [pulvero nero].

    tac

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post
    What you are looking for is called the hand & spring assembly.

    What date is your revolver? Look for a couple of letters and/or Roman numerals in a square box - NOT 'PV' - that just means Black Powder proof [pulvero nero].

    tac
    I've seen the parts I'm after called a few things to be honest. Basically the little protrusion on the side of the hammer assembly which moves the bolt (thing which locks the cylinder in place) is worn so the bolt does not fully move down.

    I'll look up the numbers later, although what I did notice was a overstamp stating 'Nitro Proof'...

  6. #6
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    Right had a look, cannot see any numbers/letters in a box besides what you advised. I can see that its been proofed twice though, one for BP and one for Nitro.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diehard View Post
    I've seen the parts I'm after called a few things to be honest. Basically the little protrusion on the side of the hammer assembly which moves the bolt (thing which locks the cylinder in place) is worn so the bolt does not fully move down.

    I'll look up the numbers later, although what I did notice was a overstamp stating 'Nitro Proof'...
    My description comes from the Pedersoli exploded diagram of the gun in question. How much nearer the horse's mouth do you want to be?

    Many Pedersoli revolvers are stamped under the barrel where it is concealed by the loading lever. ALL Italian firearms are required under CIP rules to beat the datestamp on which they were proofed.

    tac

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post
    My description comes from the Pedersoli exploded diagram of the gun in question. How much nearer the horse's mouth do you want to be?

    Many Pedersoli revolvers are stamped under the barrel where it is concealed by the loading lever. ALL Italian firearms are required under CIP rules to beat the datestamp on which they were proofed.

    tac
    Hey Tac wasnt meaning no disrespect re: terminology lol I have the pdf downloaded from Pedersoli and says the part is simply a 'Hammer'? Regardless I know what in am after now and who to approach.

    As for the stamping, yep it is on the underside of the barrel, ill upload a pic in a mo, but still cannot see a date?

  9. #9
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    Here is a pic, please excuse the rough SN edit out.

    http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3f11e637.png

  10. #10
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    Uh, right. The part that fits on the left-hand side of the hammer and pushes the cylinder around is called the HAND, and the spring that keeps it in position is called the HAND-SPRING - on every BP revolver ever made, and then, on every subsequent revolver design.

    I promise I won't steal your revolver by using the serial number...

    I'm looking at your pic on photo-shop, and you are right, it does not appear to have a date cypher. The Italians do not use anything as simple as an actual date, instead, they use a date code.

    Roman numerals I - XXX = 1945 to 1974

    AA - AZ [with a few gaps] - 1975 - 1990

    BA - BZ[again with gaps] - 1991 - 2005

    CA - 2006 to date....

    tac
    Last edited by tacfoley; 20-01-2013 at 07:10 PM.

  11. #11
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    Aye I know what you mean now mate and yep on the pdf it is indeed called the 'hand' however, from what I can see on my revolver, is the protrusion (just looks like a small dome) that is on the hammer body it's self which when pulled back, pushes the bolt down (obviously it is sprung loaded) and the hand indexes the cylinder, then the bolt springs back to secure the cylinder ready to fire.

    Issue I have is that protruding dome bit is grooved from use and hence does not shove the bold down enough

    Ill scan the pistol next time I have it out the cabinet and look for what you describe re: dating.

  12. #12
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    The 'protrusion' I keep banging on about is the 'cam' according to this thread, which appears to indicate similar issues to mine, although mine is defo not new as the hammer face shows decent use as does the hand:

    http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/i.../t-566535.html

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diehard View Post
    Aye I know what you mean now mate and yep on the pdf it is indeed called the 'hand' however, from what I can see on my revolver, is the protrusion (just looks like a small dome) that is on the hammer body it's self which when pulled back, pushes the bolt down (obviously it is sprung loaded) and the hand indexes the cylinder, then the bolt springs back to secure the cylinder ready to fire.

    Issue I have is that protruding dome bit is grooved from use and hence does not shove the bold down enough

    Ill scan the pistol next time I have it out the cabinet and look for what you describe re: dating.
    Ahah! In THAT case you DO need a new hammer. And while you are at it, get ALL the associated bits as well - never replace just one part of a movement train.

    I'm interested to learn why your revolver has also been nitro-proofed, and where - can you use the macro facility on your camera to take a better shot for me of that section of the barrel?

    TIA

    tac

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post
    Ahah! In THAT case you DO need a new hammer. And while you are at it, get ALL the associated bits as well - never replace just one part of a movement train.

    I'm interested to learn why your revolver has also been nitro-proofed, and where - can you use the macro facility on your camera to take a better shot for me of that section of the barrel?

    TIA

    tac
    Cool we on the same page lol

    Well I was expecting to need more then just the hammer, its probably going to cost me more then I paid for the whole set up, but hey ho I enjoy rebuilding stuff.

    Ill try get some better pics, not a wiss on cameras. I know in the pic above it says 'nitro proof (its to the right and upside down) and she looks like she's been double proofed judging by the multiple marks in the same areas?

  15. #15
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    Have a close look at the hammer, you may find that the cam is a seperate part pressed into the hammer and could be replaced easily. If not the cam could be built up with a TIG welder and filed to shape.
    The part of the bolt that contacts the cam is likely to be worn aswell. If it's not to bad it could be smoothed off and the new cam made a little oversize to compensate.
    Even if you have to fit new parts it is likely that they will need careful fitting to get the timing right.
    Daz

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