Reply With QuoteMy reply didnt post, ill try again.
Are .177 mercury's pellet fussy?
This is my first .177 and wondered if anyone already had any experience of what pellets they like.
Or, is it just the usual suspects (superdomes etc).
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Just picked my my new no me mercury S. A mk1 i believe? Square stock in blonde walnut.
It has a barrel from a standard mercury in .177 flavour fitted.
It shoots nicely but i will strip and re-build it anyway.
Apart from the usual clean up, internal polish and maybe guides, top hat and liner etc is there any other tricks i should consider while its apart?
It will be a dedicated 25-30 yard garden pigeon gun.
Also, will all merc stocks interchange?
It sits next to my MK1 airsporter and i cant help but compare the stocks and think the merc would look much nicer in a mk1 airsporter style stock. I have the skills to modify a merc stock but dont want to hack up the S stock so was thinking of maybe getting a standard merc stock to play with.
Must say, im very impressed with it. No idea what power its putting out, but a dozen shots or so in the garden, freezing cold and a bit gusty results in ragged single hole groups at 20-25 yards. Better than i ever managed to achieve with my hw77, crossman 2260, mk1 airsporter or webley mkIII.
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My reply didnt post, ill try again.
Are .177 mercury's pellet fussy?
This is my first .177 and wondered if anyone already had any experience of what pellets they like.
Or, is it just the usual suspects (superdomes etc).
Banned
Hi, Has it got metal sights ! Cheers,Originally Posted by Graemevw
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No, i think it has plastic sights, didnt really look, just took them off.
I think they were plastic bodied with metal parts, i assume S ones are all metal?
Its now in bits, needs a few little bits doing.
It has an alloy piston head (standard?) and a home made buffer washer. Piston head is loose as the pin is alot smaller than the hole in the piston rod.
Normal?
Also, whats the deal with the trigger blade? Why made in 2 parts? There pinned together so dont ac like a 2 stage like a MK1 airsporter does.
Need to decide how to finish it. Trigger husing is obviously painted, cylinder is blued but has a few nicks, barrel is painted as its a normal mercury one.
Cant decide whether to re-blue it all, or paint it all.
Shame to paint maybe, but its always going to be a cheap, working gun so might be best bet.
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Where is the serial number supposed to be? Doesnt seem to have one.
You can't say muntjack without saying mmmmm
Mercury S serial number was on the side of the breech block, so if yours has a replacement barrel on it it'll be missing.
The South of England has 2 good things, the M1 and the A1. Both will take you to Yorkshire.
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Will do.
The .177 s is the real project, hence that got buttoned. It will get more internal work and better guides, dont think it needs a spring.
So if a new seal doesnt tip it over 11, what else can i try? Piston weight? trasfer port work? More internal polishing?
Is a smooth, low recoil, accurate 11ftb .177 mercury possible?
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I now have 2 mrcury's, both have been stripped/cleaned and re-lubed. S had had the piston buttoned, both mave been long stroked, both have new breach seals.
My late MK1/2 .22 mercury now does 9ftb
My mercury S with normal mercury .177 barrel does 10.5ftb.
Both shoot well the standard .22 is a little smoother to shoot but not sure if thats caliber or power related.
Both seem very accurate. If fact, without trying, while chrono testing, the .22 put in a 1.5" group at 30 yards without any sights at all!
Neither had new piston O rings as they looked ok, might replace them both anyway then keep shooting and see how they settle.
The .22 has a mounlded plastic piston head, worth swapping to alloy?
How do they respond to the extra weight of a steel piston head?
They have different springs both both seem good and strong with loads of preload, i'd like to get them both to around 11 if poss, any tips without making them horrible to shoot?
Neither have piston liners and both are still on original guides etc.
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One thing ive noticed is the transfer port seems to be nicking the breach seals.
The S had a new looking seal, slightly nicked, so i replaced the seals in both guns, both again are slightly nicked.
The seal recess was completely clean with no bits of old seal and they were pushed fully home.
Are the new clear bsa seals a little too thick? Looks like i need 2 more, £6 wasted
Registered User
Try looking closely at the transfer port, it may have a small burr that's causing the damage. Also when you replace the piston seals check the cocking slot all the way down it's lenth for burrs. I removed burrs from the front & back of my slot but missed the fine knife edge ones that ran down both sides & were cutting each new seal as I fitted them, very hard to see the damage with the naked eye or see the burrs looking down the cylinder. I only found out as the cloth I was using to polish the cylinder snagged on them. Removed them with some wet & dry wrapped round a thin dowell & hey presto 11+ ft/lbs with new o ring.
Even better looking than a HW35
Also try using Meteor O rings, they are slighly smaller and get's rid of the piston tightness.
Pete
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
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Think ive solved the breach seal issue. Might need to increase the lock up spring pressure a little though.
I read on here about using meteor, or smaller cs o rings so ill give them a try.
I have 30 or so old webley .177 pellets i'd forgotten about. Tried a few just now and there very good!
Shoots more accurately with them than superdomes.
Superdomes are tight in the bore and dont seat fully untill you close the barrel.
Not sure whether to chase more power with it, would be nice to keep the power level but be able to use a weaker spring.
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