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Thread: Advice pLease - BSF S60

  1. #1
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    Advice pLease - BSF S60

    Please can someone offer advice on the following:

    I am in the process of stripping a BSF S60 model with a scope rail for servicing. The procedure I am concerned about is getting the scope rail off, the rest I am OK, and have my home made compressor with adaptors to remove the spring, I have already serviced my BSF S60 model without scope rail.

    Am I correct in the following procedure :

    1. Remove the one and only scope rail screw.
    2. Tap scope rail back a touch to clear key and lift out with a piece of hard word.
    3. Tap/pull trigger block out.

    I have tried tapping the rail back (not too severely, but firmly) after soaking in Plus Gas, but, no movement detected.

    Do I understand that by doing the above, not only does the rail move back a touch to clear the keyway, it also pushes the trigger block the same distance, and once the rail it removed, the trigger block can slide out?

    Or, do I take the tension on the spring with my compressor against the trigger block, remove the guide/block retaining screw, gradually unwind compressor, and tap rail back to clear keyway at same time, etc?

    The leather breech washer supplied by Chambers, does not really fit. Too long, too large outside diameter, too small inner diameter. When I fitted one to my other S60 (non-scope rail), it required a lot of trimming and not easy to do to get close to being OK. The second one bought for this job is also the same. Please, are there alternative seals from other air rifles that fit: 'O' ring, other?

    Another question if you don't mind.
    I picked up a reasonable and cheap Vulcan from a local auction (furniture, junk, etc)... the white plastic(?) trim seems to be disintegrating, become brittle around it edges - maybe oil contamination? I want to replace it to make it look tidier when I restore it. What material to suggest please? Maybe plastic sheet from a model shop? Other?

    Many thanks in anticipation and best regards to all.....

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRV1 View Post
    Please can someone offer advice on the following:

    I am in the process of stripping a BSF S60 model with a scope rail for servicing. The procedure I am concerned about is getting the scope rail off, the rest I am OK, and have my home made compressor with adaptors to remove the spring, I have already serviced my BSF S60 model without scope rail.

    Am I correct in the following procedure :

    1. Remove the one and only scope rail screw.
    2. Tap scope rail back a touch to clear key and lift out with a piece of hard word.
    3. Tap/pull trigger block out.

    I have tried tapping the rail back (not too severely, but firmly) after soaking in Plus Gas, but, no movement detected.

    Do I understand that by doing the above, not only does the rail move back a touch to clear the keyway, it also pushes the trigger block the same distance, and once the rail it removed, the trigger block can slide out?

    Or, do I take the tension on the spring with my compressor against the trigger block, remove the guide/block retaining screw, gradually unwind compressor, and tap rail back to clear keyway at same time, etc?

    The leather breech washer supplied by Chambers, does not really fit. Too long, too large outside diameter, too small inner diameter. When I fitted one to my other S60 (non-scope rail), it required a lot of trimming and not easy to do to get close to being OK. The second one bought for this job is also the same. Please, are there alternative seals from other air rifles that fit: 'O' ring, other?

    Another question if you don't mind.
    I picked up a reasonable and cheap Vulcan from a local auction (furniture, junk, etc)... the white plastic(?) trim seems to be disintegrating, become brittle around it edges - maybe oil contamination? I want to replace it to make it look tidier when I restore it. What material to suggest please? Maybe plastic sheet from a model shop? Other?

    Many thanks in anticipation and best regards to all.....

    Got it in one.
    Founder & ex secretary of Rivington Riflemen.
    www.rivington-riflemen.uk

  3. #3
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    Many thanks IJ for your prompt response!!!

  4. #4
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    It's been a while since I last stripped my B55,but I have a feeling the scope rail has to move forward to clear it's key way?

    Please let me know when you have finally done it.

    Thanks,

    ATB.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRV1 View Post
    Many thanks IJ for your prompt response!!!
    No problem. Im glad Ive been able to help in some small way.

    With regards to the main seal. I recently bought of that there internet auction site a replacement nylon piston head but I have got round to fitting it yet so I cannot report on its performance.
    What I have done with some success is replace the old tired leather breech seal with one and a half suitably sized neoprene 'O' ring. 'One and a half'? The half bit goes in first as its a sloping breech. I know the purist wont like the idea on non standard bits but I find that leather breech seals soon get tatty and are a pig to replace.

    The scope rail moves rearwards.

    HTH
    Ian
    Founder & ex secretary of Rivington Riflemen.
    www.rivington-riflemen.uk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by I. J. View Post
    No problem. Im glad Ive been able to help in some small way.

    With regards to the main seal. I recently bought of that there internet auction site a replacement nylon piston head but I have got round to fitting it yet so I cannot report on its performance.
    What I have done with some success is replace the old tired leather breech seal with one and a half suitably sized neoprene 'O' ring. 'One and a half'? The half bit goes in first as its a sloping breech. I know the purist wont like the idea on non standard bits but I find that leather breech seals soon get tatty and are a pig to replace.

    The scope rail moves rearwards.

    HTH
    Ian

    Hi,
    A solid nylon piston seal may not work in the BSF,(I took one out of a B55 that was jammed in the cylinder) a synthetic parachute seal and adapter will as will the original leather seal.

    My B55's cylinder was pinched where the front stock lugs were spot welded to it ,dictating a piston seal with 'give' around its circumference was used as a replacement for the original leather one.

    Eventually I had an adapter made and fitted an HW85 piston seal which works very well.

    ATB.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for that info MRTO.
    I will double check the clearance of my new seal which is of the parachute style and similar to those fitted to the HW80/77/later 35s etc.

    ATB
    Ian
    Founder & ex secretary of Rivington Riflemen.
    www.rivington-riflemen.uk

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by I. J. View Post
    Thanks for that info MRTO.
    I will double check the clearance of my new seal which is of the parachute style and similar to those fitted to the HW80/77/later 35s etc.

    ATB
    Ian

    If you are using a parachute type seal you should experience no difficulties then.I would be interested to hear though if the cylinder on yours is also pinched at the same point as on mine.

    Regards.

  9. #9
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    Again, many thanks for the informative feedback and time taken to respond to my original post. It's great to know there is so much knowledge and expertise given freely by this Forum members who are generous in their advice. Not only did I get answers to my requested help, it escalated in further interesting exchanges about the piston seal!

    Many thanks and best regards....

  10. #10
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    Hsing-ee is offline may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
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    Vortek do a parachute adaptor for this one I think.

  11. #11
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    BSF stripping

    I'd take the tension up on the compressor before loosening the grub screw. The scope rail should come off easily when the compressor is unwound about an inch (after removing the bolt into the trigger block obviously) . Don't use any force to remove it, a gentle wiggling should have it off, they are die cast & break easily if hammered or prised & impossible to get new replacements for.

  12. #12
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    Plastic sheet from a model shop does nicely; can be had in different thicknesses too. Just restoring a Vulcan MKI, no spacers Good luck with the rebuilds.

  13. #13
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    Nice to hear these another one who appreciates these fine rifles from a maker that ddint deserve to die, enjoy a real usable classic.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fat man View Post
    Nice to hear these another one who appreciates these fine rifles from a maker that ddint deserve to die, enjoy a real usable classic.
    I was pleasantly surprised to see how often the BSF55/60/70 was mentioned in another thread presently running on here: 'Top Ten Break Barrel Springers sub 12 ft.lbs. And, IMO, so they should. http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....-lb-air-rifles
    Founder & ex secretary of Rivington Riflemen.
    www.rivington-riflemen.uk

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by I. J. View Post
    I was pleasantly surprised to see how often the BSF55/60/70 was mentioned in another thread presently running on here: 'Top Ten Break Barrel Springers sub 12 ft.lbs. And, IMO, so they should. http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....-lb-air-rifles
    100% agree Ian, like your good self as you know I have a few of these fine guns and rate them highley, respect.

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