Will a Webley Mk3 benefit from tuning and Tinbum kit? Leather for synthertic washer?

[andrewM]

I am wondering what to do to improve one of my Webley Mk3s to make it more comparable with those that followed it in the '80s. I began with a Mk3, to all intents and purposes, so am rather attached to it in a sentimental way, but it is somewhat temperamental and, in my case, a little 'twangy' too. It performs at about 10.3 ft/lbs using S.domes and old Eley Wasps, so long as the washer is well lubricated.

I have discovered the existence of 'Tinbum' kits. Given I am hopeless at technical matters, I have it in mind to visit my local airgunsmith and ask him to fit this. Would it assist? Is there a better alternative? Would it result in better consistency and less of a 'twangy' sound? Would the accuracy improve?

Furthermore, should the leather washer be replaced with a synthetic equivalent or would this create difficulty?

Advice from fellow members of this site would be much appreciated.

Many thanks.

[hwtyger]

I had my mk3s tuned for target work. Especially my .22 now shoots awesome.
It has another spring fitted with thinner thread and a Diana powerseal instead of the leather seal.
My mk3s are the best shooters I have, recoil wise.
Even smoother than all the lazaglided stuff

[Shed tuner]

Having a spring that fits the guide well should reduce the twang subsantially, yes. I'd consider a lower power tune though as tyger has suggested... i.e. just find a slightly weaker spring that will fit the existing guide well..

[andrewM]

Thank you for your advice - and always good to hear from the Netherlands too!

I would like to keep the power at over 10ft/lbs, as this is what the rifles were designed to produce, but I am keen to improve on the consistency. The leather washers seem temperamental and require a given level of lubrication, it seems. Perhaps replacing it would be a start but I am worried that this might lead to unintended side effects.

I have noticed the recoil is quite high on the Mk3s. This might have something to do with the size of the cylinder and transfer port - not that I know much of such things. It could also be that because the rifle is relatively light the kick is more noticeable.

The triggers are heavy (unless you have the early models from the '50s with the two stage mechanism) and I discovered that if they are lightened too much, there might be an accidental discharge.

[hwtyger]

Didnt do anything with the cilinder, transferport and taploader on mine and theyre beautifull to shoot recoil wise. So I dont see any issues with those. They seem to be far better designed than the later Webley taploaders (tracker, osprey) which are/can be, kinda harsh to shoot even after tuning.
Id start with a modern well fitted, modern pistonseal and work from there.

Checked out the tinbum site btw, didnt see any Webley kits on there. I doubt there are any kits (left) for oldies only 'springs that happen to fit too'= universal. Those will never give best results.

[Shed tuner]

I would like to keep the power at over 10ft/lbs, as this is what the rifles were designed to produce, but I am keen to improve on the consistency.

You are being too kind. They might have come out of the factory producing that power level, because people wanted power. However, when a gun is shooting at it's absolute maximum power output, it is seldom at it's best. Just 1/2 a foot pound can make things much nicer. And also bear in mind that historically, a fair amount of that power came from burning oil.. now if you want consistency.... see the problem ?

[slug-gun]

A Webley Mk.3, or any tap loader for that matter, can never be truly accurate at the pellet has to 'jump' from the tap into the barrel. Unless it does so absolutely squarely each time it won't group that well.
SO much depends on the tap/barrel being accurately aligned, together with a compatible pellet. That is why the breech loading underlevers came into being.

[junglie]

You are being too kind. They might have come out of the factory producing that power level, because people wanted power. However, when a gun is shooting at it's absolute maximum power output, it is seldom at it's best. Just 1/2 a foot pound can make things much nicer. And also bear in mind that historically, a fair amount of that power came from burning oil.. now if you want consistency.... see the problem ?

I agree, especially with older guns with cruder triggers, the heavier the mainspring the worse the trigger, recoil & fireing cycle.