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Thread: Steyr LG110 Advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Edgware
    Posts
    125

    Steyr LG110 Advice

    Hi guys

    are there different models / generations of the LG110?

    if so - how can I tell the difference and what to look for in my quest to buy one?

    i have seen one with external power adjuster - is that done after purchase or is that also an indication of year / generation

    Going through photos i think it is a “high power” version

    Hopefully someone on here can shed some light for a Steyr LG110 novice

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Leeds/Cheadle
    Posts
    10,613
    Quote Originally Posted by aj87 View Post
    Hi guys

    are there different models / generations of the LG110?

    if so - how can I tell the difference and what to look for in my quest to buy one?

    i have seen one with external power adjuster - is that done after purchase or is that also an indication of year / generation

    Going through photos i think it is a “high power” version

    Hopefully someone on here can shed some light for a Steyr LG110 novice
    Hi Mate, I've owned Steyrs for almost 20 years and have serviced in excess of 700.

    The changes are difficult to define by serial number or year of purchase as quite a few variants were sold at the same time. The main versions are as below (there are other versions like the 10m)

    LG100 - Came with a FT style stock with the originals having a barley twist barrel and 'bumble bee' laminate woodwork
    LG110 Field Target - FT stock with variations in woodwork design
    LG110 HP - black non adjustable stock
    LG110 Hunter - walnut stock with adjustable butt pad and cheek piece.
    LG110 HFT - FT style stock and all black
    LG110 Challenge - Ft style stock, most are all black with the chassis having multiple points where the barrel runs through.

    Most changes over the past 2 decades have been cosmetic with the internals staying surprisingly common.
    Early 100's had a chamfered firing valve and a recess where the valve seats on the block. The hammer had a flat face/stubby hammer spring and an internal power adjuster which meant you needed to remove the stock to adjust, the hammer spring sat over the top of the hammer 'rat tail' which could result in a 'ping' upon firing.. Later came a rod type hammer with a different hammer spring to fit the external power adjuster, this spring sat inside the hammer so that the ping was eliminated, around 8 years ago (i think) a newer slightly lighter hammer was introduced. There have been 3 type of firing valve with the first being the chamfered one , the next has a light green o ring mounted to make a seal with the newest having a dark green, slightly thinner o ring. The block moved from the recess version after a run of a few hundred to a flat face for the o ring firing valve to seat. The firing valve springs haven't changed for a very long time. The regs are virtually unchanged apart from tiny changes to the piston and to the orientation of the Belleville washers. Later models had a bearing in the trigger pivot with quite a few different styles of FT stock, especially with the after market additions. The barrels have been the main stumbling block IMHO with the early barley twist version being non pellet fussy and an easy cleaning regime, i have one that's 17 years old and still going strong. 2 lengths have been fitted (450mm and 550mm) with the problems being with the 550mm barrels although not exclusively to those, that's why i always advise to shoot a Steyr through a full fill on a zero range before buying second hand. Ah, nearly forgot the bearing for the cocking changed from solid to a version with rollers. Transfer ports have come in Silver/Gold /Green/Black and maybe a few others i've not seen.

    Most Steyrs will shoot spot on straight out of the box with no after market gunsmith needed but as they are easy to work on many have been tinkered with and not by people that should be doing it.

    If buying second hand try to shoot at least 20 shots through a chrono, 10-15 fps spread is fine as unweighed pellets can actually give a spread of approx 12fps in a tin. Check the grouping for at leat 60 shots, refill and shoot some more. The cocking lever should not grab as excess wear is exhibited by a grab when cocking the rifle, this occurs approx half way through the cocking cycle. Black transfer port is preferred and the external power adjuster.

    If you have any more questions, please just ask away mate.
    Last edited by ChrisC; 16-04-2020 at 06:55 AM.
    Chairman Emley Moor F.T.C. 2023 - Misfits champ, HFT extreme champ, NEFTA hunter champ, Midlands Hunter champ, UKAHFT champ.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    ashford
    Posts
    13

    Barrel length?

    @ChrisC
    Lots of information there, could you explain why the 550 mm barrel was problematic over the shorter barrel?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    wimborne
    Posts
    864
    Quote Originally Posted by retromlc View Post
    @ChrisC
    Lots of information there, could you explain why the 550 mm barrel was problematic over the shorter barrel?
    it's not just the 550 barrels some of the 450 s went bad too .

    Sometimes the nickel plated bore would deteriorate. Easy to spot , those barrels would need very frequent cleaning to avoid flyers .

    Don't get hung up on this . Most steyrs out there had no barrel issues at all .

    The factory have known about this for ages , and you dont hear about it much these days .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    45
    Can you swap the hammers and springs to get rid of the ping and would it be expensive to do?

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