Broken D34 T01 plastic trigger

[evert]

Sooo.. Someone had a D34 in parts for sale, with both the rear guide and the plastic trigger broken.
Now, the gun was quite cheap, and I was planning to use it to replace some parts on a worn D36 I have, but then I start thinking: I'll turn up a new guide and find a new trigger, and voilá; yet another spinger can gather dust in my collection...

But both Knibbs and Chambers are sold out on the T01 trigger, does anyone know where I can find one?

[maximus]

Hi, depending on where its broken but you could do what I did on my 52 T01. I made a new brass blade and attached it to the plastic base with an m3 csk screw after sawing off the original blade. Turned out great for me. Regards Max

[Barryg]

Hi, depending on where its broken but you could do what I did on my 52 T01. I made a new brass blade and attached it to the plastic base with an m3 csk screw after sawing off the original blade. Turned out great for me. Regards Max

I think that this was your trigger Max, so I will post a pic so evert can see what you mean

[maximus]

Yeh thats it, thanks Barry.

[evert]

Thanks for the input guys, but the part of the trigger shown broken in the pictures is the part that interacts with the safety.
Hopefully its all there so I can glue it together.

[evert]

The rifle arrived today, its a 1991 model in quite good shape.
The hook on the trigger that limits its travel out of the trigger cage was the broken part. I fixed it with some wire from a broken BSA meteor sear spring, which was glued in place with cyanoacrylate after melting a track for the wire in the plastic part- success!


I glued the rear guide back together, assembled the miss-assembled trigger mechanism, cleared a 3mm ball bearing from the 30 year old piston seal, lubed the piston seal with some anschutz gleitfett, put some JM moly paste on the piston skirt and lubed the spring up with a little CV-joint grease.

The gun shoots, and although the shotcycle is fast and the gun does not vibrate very much, it still proves that the earlier short stroked and softer sprung D34 is a much better gun than the later D34!

[T 20]

I bought a D54 with the trigger blade broken off, looking at the whole blade assembly it didn't look too big a job to carve one from a lump of Aluminium if necessary, but I just fitted an alloy blade with a couple of self tapping screws.
I did buy a spare T01 trigger assembly from Rickenbacker but I've never felt the need to fit it.


Glad you got sorted.




All the best Mick

[Barryg]

The rifle arrived today, its a 1991 model in quite good shape.
The hook on the trigger that limits its travel out of the trigger cage was the broken part. I fixed it with some wire from a broken BSA meteor sear spring, which was glued in place with cyanoacrylate after melting a track for the wire in the plastic part- success!


I glued the rear guide back together, assembled the miss-assembled trigger mechanism, cleared a 3mm ball bearing from the 30 year old piston seal, lubed the piston seal with some anschutz gleitfett, put some JM moly paste on the piston skirt and lubed the spring up with a little CV-joint grease.

The gun shoots, and although the shotcycle is fast and the gun does not vibrate very much, it still proves that the earlier short stroked and softer sprung D34 is a much better gun than the later D34!

That looks like a strong job metal triggers for a T01 are so rare T R Robb made one once but I cant remember where the one in the picture came from, it might be Terry Robbs.

Also my old 34 was so nice to shoot but there are a few things you might want to check on yours, check that the TP is in line with the bore and make sure the metal faces match with the breech face cylinder to avoid any breech leaks, also a piston sleeve can make a difference the one in the pic is a old 45.

I expect you know all this but I thought that I would mention it anyway

[Drew451]

There are times when cheap parts rifles pay dividends and this is one.
If I was faced with a snapped blade on an otherwise good or sweet shooting 34, I'd go for a full T06 conversion. I do like 34's and T06 set ups so wouldn't mind shelling out. I would feel pretty satisfied that I had a sorted rifle, reliable and safe.

[Barryg]

There are times when cheap parts rifles pay dividends and this is one.
If I was faced with a snapped blade on an otherwise good or sweet shooting 34, I'd go for a full T06 conversion. I do like 34's and T06 set ups so wouldn't mind shelling out. I would feel pretty satisfied that I had a sorted rifle, reliable and safe.

Yes that is the easy way but there is something about the T01 three ball clutch trigger that is likeable apart from that plastic trigger but for some reason they are hard to make, look at the amount of time that has been spent on this custom 34 and it still has the plastic trigger I bet if the owner could have got a metal trigger he would have got one

[maximus]

Yes that is the easy way but there is something about the T01 three ball clutch trigger that is likeable apart from that plastic trigger but for some reason they are hard to make, look at the amount of time that has been spent on this custom 34 and it still has the plastic trigger I bet if the owner could have got a metal trigger he would have got one

I wish you could buy a stock like that for a 34, i would definitely have one, or maybe two!!
Once spoke to custom stock about doing one as the 34 has been sold in huge numbers so I guess there would be a market for them but they weren't interested

[evert]

I wish you could buy a stock like that for a 34, i would definitely have one, or maybe two!!
Once spoke to custom stock about doing one as the 34 has been sold in huge numbers so I guess there would be a market for them but they weren't interested

Remember that the D34 is a quite cheap gun, there are very few owners that are willing to buy a stock that probably costs the same or more than the gun did new.

[evert]

Also my old 34 was so nice to shoot but there are a few things you might want to check on yours, check that the TP is in line with the bore and make sure the metal faces match with the breech face cylinder to avoid any breech leaks, also a piston sleeve can make a difference the one in the pic is a old 45.

I expect you know all this but I thought that I would mention it anyway

Yes, I've seen your tips on improving the gun before

One thing I'm worried about is how the barrel lockup angle is affected by your breech adjustment, I'm thinking that when filing the breech for central tranfer port position, its easy to make the breech block point out of line with the cylinder?

[Drew451]

Yes that is the easy way but there is something about the T01 three ball clutch trigger that is likeable apart from that plastic trigger but for some reason they are hard to make, look at the amount of time that has been spent on this custom 34 and it still has the plastic trigger I bet if the owner could have got a metal trigger he would have got one

I totally agree. The 3 ball works very well and has a unique feel. A very good trigger in my book.
I'd still likely do the conversion though.