HW35 mods?

[randl]

Thanks Tony all lubed and not sticking or bent all in great shape. Feels great cocking out of stock, just wo t in stock.
I think there must be a clearance issue somewhere ?!
Your suggestion may be right but I’m not quite sure what you mean.
Thanks

[Shed tuner]

basics.. if it cocks fine without the stock, but not with the stock, then (wait for it) - it's the stock or fitment thereof stopping it cocking.

Have you tried cocking it without the stock fitted ? It takes a bit of strength and technique on an HW35. I lay the action upside down on a towel on a bench, with an end stop, and you can then use both hands for good control.

If the stock is indeed causing the problem, check easy stuff first.. is the latch definitely actually hitting the woodwork at the cutout ? As Tony says, is it returning under it's spring to it's fully back position ? If it is, then sure, just scoop out a little wood.
Also check stock screws - if they are going in too deep they could be fouling the cocking linkage. Same with the rear trigger guard screws.

In terms of the extra stroke, with stock removed, just take a look and see if there is clearance between the rear of the piston cocking slot and the cocking shoe - at least 1mm needed. Then, when cocking the gun (out of stock), see if you have enough rear slot length to cock it. You may need to lengthen the slot a few mm (dremel is fine) to make up for the extra stroke.

I will say the extra stroke piston makes such a huge difference, so it's well worth it.

HTH - JB

[TonyL]

Perfect sum-up, JB, and the answer has to be amongst the above..

[randl]

Ok guys I’ll double check latch operation later. It definitely is making contact with the stock cutout at the moment. Will also check for the 1mm clearance . Stock fit feels fine but will check for screw interference.
Strange because it cocks and feels fine out of the stock .
No one has suggested changing for the later cocking lever yet is that because the overall dimensions are the same as the roller type.
Cheers

[BTDT]

I'd be inclined to assemble the action without the mainspring, lay it in the stock and pull the barrel back until it snags, then lift away the stock to try to see where it is snagging.

[T 20]

I'm wondering if the gun was previously long stroked with the leather sealed piston and someone filed the end off the cocking lever to gain clearance rather than extend the piston slot.

I've also seen the cranked end of the cocking lever bent forwards which would also cause problems with the cocking stroke.

The synthetic sealed piston normally has a 69mm stroke and doesn't have clearance issues with the woodwork, I've only run into issues when long stroking to over a 71mm stroke.




All the best Mick

[Kevmcc]

Keep the leather seal if you can or get one made

[T 20]

Keep the leather seal if you can or get one made

image.jpg

[randl]

Keep the leather seal if you can or get one made

I would’ve kept it with the leather piston if the port was 4mm but decided to go increased stroke as it was 2.8mm.
The original piston and washer are in good shape and will keep for the future if all else fails.

[randl]

I'm wondering if the gun was previously long stroked with the leather sealed piston and someone filed the end off the cocking lever to gain clearance rather than extend the piston slot.

I've also seen the cranked end of the cocking lever bent forwards which would also cause problems with the cocking stroke.

The synthetic sealed piston normally has a 69mm stroke and doesn't have clearance issues with the woodwork, I've only run into issues when long stroking to over a 71mm stroke.




All the best Mick

It’s only had one owner and very little use from new so confident it hasnt been altered.
Will double check for bends etc.
Thanks

[randl]

Ok quick update.
It’s still in the stock so I thought I’d try cocking it until the latch meets the stock cutout, then I pulled the thumb cocking lever back slowly by approx 2-3mm and hey presto it cocked .
So have I somehow gained more stroke than 69mm ? Still confused I’m afraid!
I guess I could enlarge the cutout by 2-3mm to compensate what do you think ?

[Shed tuner]

Ok quick update.
It’s still in the stock so I thought I’d try cocking it until the latch meets the stock cutout, then I pulled the thumb cocking lever back slowly by approx 2-3mm and hey presto it cocked .
So have I somehow gained more stroke than 69mm ? Still confused I’m afraid!
I guess I could enlarge the cutout by 2-3mm to compensate what do you think ?

yes, enlarge the cutout.

But please do the clearance checks I mentioned above (at each end of the stroke) or you will damage your gun on first firing.

[randl]

yes, enlarge the cutout.

But please do the clearance checks I mentioned above (at each end of the stroke) or you will damage your gun on first firing.

Thanks will do

[randl]

Checked for screw interference, can’t see any. 4mm approx from end of cocking lever to piston slot cutout when uncocked. approx 5mm from piston skirt to end of cocking slot in cocked position.
I’ve taken some photos but don’t know to post them, I can email to anyone who wants to take a look ?!
Cheers again

[landymick]

Which way did you pull the breach catch lever ?
Towards the muzzle or back to the T.P . Fitting the new piston shouldn’t effect the lock up . They sometimes catch the wood work if they stick .