BSA L Pattern

[Chippendale]

Any L Pattern experts going to Melbourne on Saturday, I would really appreciate some help with one I purchased recently for bell target shooting.

If there are anybody going whom should I enquire after.


Cheers

Melv

Chippendale (with clothes on)

[Peter Dunkley]

I cant really name one person but having been to every one of Melbourne's doos I can guarantee you will get help. You might start by looking up "Chris" he will have a stand. "dont tell him it was me"

[zeroscore]

whats up with it buddy they are not that hard to work on ?

i have a good few parts for them to

[Chippendale]

whats up with it buddy they are not that hard to work on ?

i have a good few parts for them to

The first thing was it shoots over 70mm height at seven yards, I need a taller foresight, second; it has a harsh firing cycle, third I can’t make the trigger easy, it’s hard to pull and the rear sight is loose in its dovetail slot.

I’ve had the piston out and the hard washer, I think it’s some sort of hard plastic, that holds the leather washer, protrudes in font of the leather washer, I think therefore the hard washer is stopping the leather washer hitting the bottom of the cylinder. The transfer port looks big to me but I really have no idea what it should be or even how to measure it.

Cheers Melv

Chippendale (with clothes on)

[Chippendale]

I’m taking the dismantled gun to Melbourne hoping someone can give me some guidance, I really am inexperienced when it comes to working on the internals of air guns.

Melv

[ggggr]

The first thing was it shoots over 70mm height at seven yards, I need a taller foresight, second; it has a harsh firing cycle, third I can’t make the trigger easy, it’s hard to pull and the rear sight is loose in its dovetail slot.

I’ve had the piston out and the hard washer, I think it’s some sort of hard plastic, that holds the leather washer, protrudes in font of the leather washer, I think therefore the hard washer is stopping the leather washer hitting the bottom of the cylinder. The transfer port looks big to me but I really have no idea what it should be or even how to measure it.

Cheers Melv

Chippendale (with clothes on)

Hi Mel----Probably measuring your mainspring might be a starting point. Not talking specifically about the light, but most older guns are nicer to shoot with a softer mainspring (Talking plinking etc here) as it puts less pressure on the sear. Also many benefit from a little work on the trigger and sear with a stone or a bit of wet and dry paper. If the piston rod looks a bit iffy where it latches, clean the rough bits and scratches off but dont change the angle. The same with the holding face of the sear. On the back of sears, where they engage with triggers, a bit of work with wet and dry here can work well. If you take both bits in your fingers and rub them against each other , you get an idea of how smooth it is. Check that a trigger spring is not bent, battered or closed up------------as is often the case when other bits of trigger ir sear springs have been fitted.

If you cock the gun , open the tap and hold the underlever and pull the trigger and slowly release the underlever, you should get an idea of how good the tap is sealing. If the lever moves slowly it is a good seal.

Other than that a new piston washer might help soften things.

Edbear has put things up about tightening dovetails up----------which if they are not well and truly b-lloxed, usually involves removing the sight and tapping the top of the dovetail on the barrel with a small polished hammer. Sometimes a thin bit of shim steel (or placky milk bottle ) under the sight will raise it enough for the dovetails to grip.

There were different heights of foresights. If you cannot get a taller one, someone on here will probably well a bit on top of your exisiting one.

Sorry we cannot chat on the phone these days.

[Chippendale]

Hi Mel----Probably mesuring your mainspring might be a starting point. Not talking specifically about the light, but most older guns are nicer to shoot with a softer mainspring (Talking plinking etc here) as it puts less pressure on the sear. Also many benefit from a little work on the trigger and sear with a stone or a bit of wet and dry paper. If the piston rod looks a bit iffy where it latches, clean and rough bits and scratches off but dont change the angle. The same with the holding face of the sear. On the back of sears, when they engage with triggers, a bit of work with wet and dry here can work well. If you take both bits in your fingers and rub them against each other , you get an idea of how smooth it is. Check that a trigger spring is not bent, battered or closed up------------as is often the case when other bits of trigger ir sear springs have been fitted.

If you cock the gun , open the tap and hold the underlever and pull the trigger and slowly release the underlever, you should get an idea of how good the tap is sealing. If the lever moves slowly it is a good seal.

Other than that a new piston washer might help soften things.

Edbear has put things up about tightening dovetails up----------which if they are not well and truly b-lloxed, usually involves removing the sight and tapping the top of the dovetail in the barrel with a small polished hammer. Sometimes a thin bit of shim steel (or placky milk bottle ) under the sight will raise it enough for the dovetails to grip.

There were different heights of foresights. If you cannot get a taller one, someone on here will probably well a bit on top of your exisiting one.

Sorry we cannot chat on the phone these days.

Cheers for that advice Guy, i'm hopefully getting a new phone with a speaker thingy on it, my hearing has deteriorated so much in the last two years its unbelievable. The Audio nurse at BGHospital says I will eventually go completely deaf.
Keep safe in these trying times Guy.

Cheers

Melv