Airsporter vs new budget springer

[look no hands]

Josey; I'm guessing that you didn't have a clue when you first asked that original question that you'd be starting off quite an epic that a fair few people will be watching with interest? Nice one.

As you know Tone, I'd rather have an older springer than a new one, in the past it was because of lack of funds but also my love of the Mercury/Challenger/Airsporters looks (and they are British made) but I think even you will agree now that the cheaper rifles are just not made as well as they used to be (there are the exceptions like the Remmington express etc) , even HWs have suffered with the modern HW77 not being as well made as the older ones, I know BSA's are not the best example to choose as being well made with pivot pins instead of bolts and poor triggers etc and the internal mess that you can sometimes find inside Mercs/sporters when the buffer washer has shit itself.

Pete

[Joseyw]

Josey; I'm guessing that you didn't have a clue when you first asked that original question that you'd be starting off quite an epic that a fair few people will be watching with interest? Nice one.

No, no idea, but there could just be a few unused Airsporters lying around !

[Joseyw]

As you know Tone, I'd rather have an older springer than a new one, in the past it was because of lack of funds but also my love of the Mercury/Challenger/Airsporters looks (and they are British made) but I think even you will agree now that the cheaper rifles are just not made as well as they used to be (there are the exceptions like the Remmington express etc) , even HWs have suffered with the modern HW77 not being as well made as the older ones, I know BSA's are not the best example to choose as being well made with pivot pins instead of bolts and poor triggers etc and the internal mess that you can sometimes find inside Mercs/sporters when the buffer washer has shit itself.

Pete

The Remmingtons were kinda the reason for my original question but still happier to repair the Airsporter

[look no hands]

The Remmingtons were kinda the reason for my original question but still happier to repair the Airsporter

They still need work to get them to shoot nice, they are one of the better Chinese clone rifles.

Pete

[TonyL]

As you know Tone, I'd rather have an older springer than a new one, in the past it was because of lack of funds but also my love of the Mercury/Challenger/Airsporters looks (and they are British made) but I think even you will agree now that the cheaper rifles are just not made as well as they used to be (there are the exceptions like the Remmington express etc) , even HWs have suffered with the modern HW77 not being as well made as the older ones, I know BSA's are not the best example to choose as being well made with pivot pins instead of bolts and poor triggers etc and the internal mess that you can sometimes find inside Mercs/sporters when the buffer washer has shit itself.

Pete

Yep, some of those "thoroughly British" BSAs didn't do anything for the reputation and heritage of this classic brand, let alone the newer ones.

Of the modern stuff, I must say that I was very pleasantly surprised with the overall quality and internal finish of that Gamo Vipermax that you sent me the WW kit for. Much nicer than expected.

[TonyL]

No, no idea, but there could just be a few unused Airsporters lying around !

Agreed. There will be lots of unloved and forgotten about ones out there.

[TonyL]

The Remmingtons were kinda the reason for my original question but still happier to repair the Airsporter

They still need work to get them to shoot nice, they are one of the better Chinese clone rifles.

Pete

You most certainly took the correct route there, Josey. The Airsporter is an absolute classic and will be loved by many forever. The "Remington" will be just another forgotten about fraud. Its origins mean it won't ever be something that I'd want to own.

[Joseyw]

While I’m waiting for parts, might as well get other stuff ready.
It seems like the quietest (really want to minimise noise for neighbours - I know, shouldn’t be using old underlever springer then pellet catcher or backstop will be a box stuffed with old clothes or paving slab with carpet in front of it ? I take it that these work well or anything better?
Cheers

[TonyL]

If you have the time, also take a look at one made from a cardboard box and stuffed with rubber mulch. Often championed by Tom on the Pyramydairblog.. They sound excellent and I really must get round to trying one myself. Will try and post a link.

https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2021...t-and-bb-trap/

Here you go. I think Part 2 is the bit you'll most need.

[TonyL]

P.S.....Whilst waiting for parts, maybe you'll have done this / some of this already.......clean the cylinder and, if it were me, I'd be treating it to a little moly.....either powder or small amount of high content paste, or one of the aerosol dry moly sprays.......applied to cylinder and buffed in. Also clean the trigger out as best you can and lube with a little gun oil / light machine oil on pivots / bearing surfaces. Make sure you have a little moly grease and paste ready for the rebuild. Will's kits come with their own grease which seems very good for spring / guides etc but I'd still be happier also applying some moly paste to high load areas like the very rear of the piston and pivot points. Also a tiny smear on the end of the cocking rod in the piston. Hope this helps a little.

[look no hands]

P.S.....Whilst waiting for parts, maybe you'll have done this / some of this already.......clean the cylinder and, if it were me, I'd be treating it to a little moly.....either powder or small amount of high content paste, or one of the aerosol dry moly sprays.......applied to cylinder and buffed in. Also clean the trigger out as best you can and lube with a little gun oil / light machine oil on pivots / bearing surfaces. Make sure you have a little moly grease and paste ready for the rebuild. Will's kits come with their own grease which seems very good for spring / guides etc but I'd still be happier also applying some moly paste to high load areas like the very rear of the piston and pivot points. Also a tiny smear on the end of the cocking rod in the piston. Hope this helps a little.

Also if you have some small files and wet and dry paper, get rid of all the sharp edges on the cocking slot on the outside and inside.

Pete

[TonyL]

Absolutely, Pete.. Yes, sorry, forgot to mention that.

P.S....Got a welcome extra day off today. Using holiday days up and we may have had a family hospital run to sort. Now probably happening tomorrow, so I think the Mercury S will be having some plinky playtime shortly.

[look no hands]

Absolutely, Pete.. Yes, sorry, forgot to mention that.

P.S....Got a welcome extra day off today. Using holiday days up and we may have had a family hospital run to sort. Now probably happening tomorrow, so I think the Mercury S will be having some plinky playtime shortly.

Good man.

Pete

[Joseyw]

If you have the time, also take a look at one made from a cardboard box and stuffed with rubber mulch. Often championed by Tom on the Pyramydairblog.. They sound excellent and I really must get round to trying one myself. Will try and post a link.

https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2021...t-and-bb-trap/

Here you go. I think Part 2 is the bit you'll most need.

Cheers for link.
That looks perfect, shoot, shake around, stick another target on, patch it up again and carry on and so on.

[Joseyw]

P.S.....Whilst waiting for parts, maybe you'll have done this / some of this already.......clean the cylinder and, if it were me, I'd be treating it to a little moly.....either powder or small amount of high content paste, or one of the aerosol dry moly sprays.......applied to cylinder and buffed in. Also clean the trigger out as best you can and lube with a little gun oil / light machine oil on pivots / bearing surfaces. Make sure you have a little moly grease and paste ready for the rebuild. Will's kits come with their own grease which seems very good for spring / guides etc but I'd still be happier also applying some moly paste to high load areas like the very rear of the piston and pivot points. Also a tiny smear on the end of the cocking rod in the piston. Hope this helps a little.

On the list to do

I was going to use the grease in the kit, but will look out for the Moly grease / paste type as well and use as suggested.

Thinking re-the standard Airsporter piston O ring that can be tight and rob power, and perhaps a leaky tap hear and there, I wonder how many actually came out of the factory never making the claimed power even after bedding in?

Cheers