Airsporter vs new budget springer

[TonyL]

Sentimentality is wonderful, until you actually fire the old thing. Then you remember why the aftermarket tuning industry was born.

I love the looks of my old Airsporter S, but it shoots like a box of spanners compared to modern rifles.

A mild home fettle with some nice fitting guides and careful re-lube will transform the old girl's manners.. Many modern / new rifles will also benefit from the same.

[rapidresponse1]

airsporter for me

[Joseyw]

Airsporter it is then!
Seriously thank you everyone for all the advice and replies
It’s a GM model prefix about ‘79 ish so not the early model
Just need to strip it down to see whats needed, got a bit of a project now.
Thanks again everyone, I’m bound to need more help along the way!

[Joseyw]

Which tuning kits are preferred? Anything with the OX mainspring doesn’t seem to get much love!!
I might as well try to make it the best I can while it’s apart 🙂
Thanks

[look no hands]

Which tuning kits are preferred? Anything with the OX mainspring doesn’t seem to get much love!!
I might as well try to make it the best I can while it’s apart 🙂
Thanks

Welsh Willy does an excellent kit, no spring cutting needed, ready to fit, I have them in all my Airsporters and Mercury's

Pete

[Joseyw]

Hi all again,
This might be the dumbest question going so try not to laugh! I think I know the answer already but
Since I haven’t got time or space to strip the Airsporter presently (wife wants DIY finished first ha ha)
Would it be possible to squirt some oil or penetrating fluid somewhere in the gun to try to free off the piston or seal etc as I’m sure it worked before storage.
Obviously I will strip down before proper useage.
So there ya go a stupid Sunday question!

[Phil Russell]

Hi again. Rest assured there is no such thing as a dumb question .. we all need to ask in order to learn. But to the question: I do not think a squirt will help get the gun working but it might help in another way ....
The problem is virtually certainly a disintegrated buffer washer for which the bits have swollen / come away and are jamming the piston in the cylinder. this is a very common fault and can happen over time as the material the buffer is made from disintegrates / swells. A squirt of oil can help get the piston out of the cylinder but will not make the rifle shootable. Sorry, but the rifle does need taking apart and the piston removing so that the buffer and the sealing O ring can be replaced. Hopefully the mainspring will be OK and I gave info on the O ring and buffer in an earlier post. It is well worth doing this and it really is not that difficult ... indeed the only real bit that may make you cuss is getting the piston out of the cylinder. Putting it all back together the only part that can be an issue is screwing the trigger block back against the mainspring pressure. I do not know if you have a vice but my favourite method is to fasten the action or the trigger block in the vice, well padded with rubber sheet to avoid damage, and then offer up the block or action, push against spring pressure and screw the parts together. For an Airsporter I have most often clamped the block in the vice and screwed the action into it; a block of wood with a recess for the muzzle helps with pushing the action but remove the sight first.
Good luck
Cheers, Phil

[Joseyw]

Hi Phil,

Thanks for for reply,
I kinda thought i would have to strip it first, just hoping!
I have not got easy access to a vice at moment, i guess using one is the only sensible way to take it apart.
Is there a standard length of the original mainspring from new to compare against? as most springs of any sort will shorten or distort when worn out?

Also is there a way to check for tap wear / leakage while static seeing as i cant fire it? having read it can cause low power, and accuracy issues?

Thanks

[Phil Russell]

OK, no vice.
It would certainly be possible to service the rifle without a vice; it just makes life so much easier as you are in better control. And please do not be tempted to use a set of mole or vice grips or a stilsen wrench etc as they can leave terrible marks on the action.
Without a vice you would still need to strip the rifle down to the action and remove all external parts until you are left with the trigger block still attached to the cylinder. Rarely will the trigger block unscrew without a little persuasion, but you may be lucky. You can try holding the action firmly while you tap/smack the trigger block with a rubber mallet. This often works and you only need to start to get the block moving. Or try putting a bar through the hole in the block and tapping that. Once the block is moving, unscrew it but take care and I always wear a leather glove and have a towel over the block and action because when the block releases it will be under tension from the mainspring and comes away quite sharply.
Replacing the block with a new spring in the rifle needs ingenuity and will most likely be easier if you have a willing helper.
I have not done this myself but hope that other people will add to my thoughts. I have heard of people holding the block against the floor, using suitable padding etc, such that the thread is pointing up and then pushing the action down onto the block and turning either action or block to engage the threads. On the other hand I have heard of people placing the muzzle on the floor and pushing the block down onto/into the action. In both cases having a second person to help steady the parts and/or apply the turning motion would certainly help.
With regard to the spring, a bent spring or one where coils are compressed at the end or ends is surely in need of replacement. Coils should be pretty evenly spaced. Length will be in the region of 240mm. I would advise trying to source a spring designated for an Airsporter from an established supplier e.g. Knibbs, Chambers or Protek. After market Titan springs can be used but in my experience are always supplied too long and will require cutting down by several coils. Square section springs are not well liked and even though I know some rifles shooting very well with one fitted I think they are best avoided.

Good luck
Cheers, Phil

[Joseyw]

Cheers Phil,
Best i do it in a vice, sounds easier and safer
Thanks again.

[TonyL]

As long as you are careful, you should be able to strip and re-build safely without using a vice. As Phil says, with the (protected) muzzle down, wearing a thick glove and towel and with your mid-riff squarely over the end block when it "pops" off the end of the thread. Guessing the spring may have weakened a little by now, also.

Re rebuild.....if you were using a Welsh Willy kit as Pete, look no hands, mentioned, there shouldn't be an unmanageable degree of preload to contend with. Always proceed with caution, obviously.

I hope you can get trigger block started off okay. I'd stopped a few Mercurys years ago, which always came apart without difficulty, but the S that I stripped a couple of years ago proved to be an altogether more reluctant beast!

[Joseyw]

Thanks TonyL
I'll make sure it comes apart one way or the other!
Anything i can do to check how well the tap seals prior to taking it apart or will i only be able to tell when it is assembled and working?

[TonyL]

I'm not really expert in diagnosing loading tqp issues. The only thing I used to do to "check" was to cock the rifle and then open the tap. Then, whilst holding the underlever firmly, pull the trigger and then slowly and keeping it under control, return the underlever. It should reach a stop against the trapped cushion of air. Then, when closing the tap, allowing the pressurised air to vent, the lever will return fully. Obviously you need it to be working, though. Other than that, maybe just a quick visual check to try and check alignment?

Others with more knowledge on loading taps will be along........

[Joseyw]

Welsh Willy does an excellent kit, no spring cutting needed, ready to fit, I have them in all my Airsporters and Mercury's

Pete

Hi Pete,
More power or smoother? or both
Cheers

[maximus]

Thanks TonyL
I'll make sure it comes apart one way or the other!
Anything i can do to check how well the tap seals prior to taking it apart or will i only be able to tell when it is assembled and working?

The traditional check for loading tap seals is to cock the gun open the tap then de-cock and see how long it takes for the air to escape. Don't expect too much as they were never that great even when new. Be careful when unscrewing the back block as they can have quite a bit of pre-load. The back block can also be a bugger to undo so a vice might be required. Also plenty of WD40 to free off the piston if its stuck due to a gunged up buffer washer.