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Thread: Original 75

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Chesterfield
    Posts
    892
    Quote Originally Posted by zooma View Post
    We look forward to seeing your entry come in and having you join us in the MPL.

    Bob.
    I'll hopefully shoot January's cards this weekend. I'm out of practice shooting so will be good to see if my scores improve over the months.
    Old German target rifles and even older BSA's

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Rossendale and Formby
    Posts
    5,595
    Quote Originally Posted by Graemevw View Post
    I'll hopefully shoot January's cards this weekend. I'm out of practice shooting so will be good to see if my scores improve over the months.
    One of the good things about the MPL is that it gives you the chance to monitor your competition scores month by month.

    We can have two entries for the same event, from the same shooter, but shooting with two different air rifles. This makes it possible to compare actual recorded scores gained each month from them both.

    This is not not half as daft as it may sound as often we think that we shoot better with one air rifle (or air pistol) but the real life results can prove otherwise ......or sometimes it is just a nice excuse to be able to give more than one air rifle (or air pistol) some exercise!
    Rossendale Target Shooting Club. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening 7 - 10pm.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    walsall
    Posts
    386
    Hi firstly the black nitrile ''pads'' in the stock are there to stop the cog wheel cover covers from working loose, squashing is normal. The rear sight locking ring has a right hand thread and there is a special Original tool to fit, this also serves other functions.
    Don't try and unscrew the side covers, they carry the 2 cogwheels that are interlinked with the pistons; although no damage might be caused by their removal, there is a very important positioning of these and the pistons to avoid stripping of teeth on cogs and pistons, cost of these in total will be several hundred pounds.
    The cocking arm buffer is in fact just a short piece of round polyurethane, protruding slightly from the arm, you can replace it fairly easily, just 'dig out' the remnants which will be a bit crumbly. Then you can replace with a piece of suitable polyurethane round bar or even a piece of O ring temporarily. If you need a replacement PM me.
    The piston heads do certainly break up into crystals or worse on the older guns, newer versions are blue in colour and way better. IF the heads have gone power will be poor for sure, same with the breech seal. Also the gun may seem harsh to shoot. The only way to check piston heads easily, is to remove the cylinder end cap and check colour, non blue are old type and while the rear one might seem ok the front one could be useless. Removing this end cap is no easy task, so try and find a decent repair guy. I can service but you would maybe need to post. Again PM me if you need more advice, I've been servicing Originals since 1974, always willing to help. Spares are available.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    walsall
    Posts
    386
    Addendum to my earlier post. I decided to browse teh earlier posts and saw the mention of both piston heads being the same. This is something I do, because the usual replica and indeed genuine compensation head is smaller ???? than the actual piston and causes metal to metal friction. Original obviously thought this was ok, but I'm from an engineering background and that is a no-no. So I always fit compression heads to both pistons, it smoothes the action a little and solves the contact issue. If I or my friend serviced the gun we would have put a logo and date inside the stock, if it's me look for HRH plus date. Again pm me if if it has.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Chesterfield
    Posts
    892
    Quote Originally Posted by abellringer View Post
    Addendum to my earlier post. I decided to browse teh earlier posts and saw the mention of both piston heads being the same. This is something I do, because the usual replica and indeed genuine compensation head is smaller ???? than the actual piston and causes metal to metal friction. Original obviously thought this was ok, but I'm from an engineering background and that is a no-no. So I always fit compression heads to both pistons, it smoothes the action a little and solves the contact issue. If I or my friend serviced the gun we would have put a logo and date inside the stock, if it's me look for HRH plus date. Again pm me if if it has.

    I didn't notice anything inside the stock, but I will check.

    As for the seals, I did notice the rear one was smaller than the front. I had the same immediate concern as you, about possible metal to metal contact. But the smaller seal is still larger in diameter than the piston so figured it would be ok. It is looser in its cylinder than the front one though but the rear piston doesn't compress any air.
    I can only assume they did this so there was less resistance in the movement of the compensation piston than the front. I wonder if it was maybe an unnecessary action to help lock time. I can see that the more friction the slower everything will move. I doubt a tiny bit of seal friction would make much difference but sometimes things are designed on hunches rather than facts.
    It does seem to have a faster lock time than my walther lgr.
    The gun had blue seals, and they were fine to be honest. But as I'd already ordered new seals I fitted them anyway. I could put the old compression seal on the rear piston, but it shoots great now so I probably won't go through all the effort of stripping it again.


    Edit... pm sent
    Last edited by Graemevw; 05-02-2022 at 08:24 PM.
    Old German target rifles and even older BSA's

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