Buying a webley service mk2

[Graemevw]

I've wanted one of these for years. I keep looking, more so recently. If I can ever find the right one, I think it may actually happen now.
I've read a fair bit about them, but am still a little lost in the details. Doesn't really matter, I don't think I have a preference for which version I end up with.

Now things are getting a bit more serious though, can anyone give me any advice on what to look for?
What parts are normally missing, what parts are hard to get (all of them I guess!)

Any parts that often break or wear?
Are there any common things that can devalue a gun to collectors? I.e. commonly replaced parts etc.

When looking at old BSA's people don't like repro parts, obviously, and things like rear sight blades and trigger guard screws etc are the main culprits.
I know little about these old webleys though so am struggling to tell good ones from bad, apart from just judging the overall condition.

I often hoped the itch to own one would go away, but it's not.
Thanks.

[Garvin]

I've wanted one of these for years. I keep looking, more so recently. If I can ever find the right one, I think it may actually happen now.
I've read a fair bit about them, but am still a little lost in the details. Doesn't really matter, I don't think I have a preference for which version I end up with.

Now things are getting a bit more serious though, can anyone give me any advice on what to look for?
What parts are normally missing, what parts are hard to get (all of them I guess!)

Any parts that often break or wear?
Are there any common things that can devalue a gun to collectors? I.e. commonly replaced parts etc.

When looking at old BSA's people don't like repro parts, obviously, and things like rear sight blades and trigger guard screws etc are the main culprits.
I know little about these old webleys though so am struggling to tell good ones from bad, apart from just judging the overall condition.

I often hoped the itch to own one would go away, but it's not.
Thanks.

Graeme a lot of the things in this BSA buyer's guide apply to buying a Mk2 Service.

https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery....sas/#post-2664

[coburn]

I've wanted one of these for years. I keep looking, more so recently. If I can ever find the right one, I think it may actually happen now.
I've read a fair bit about them, but am still a little lost in the details. Doesn't really matter, I don't think I have a preference for which version I end up with.

Now things are getting a bit more serious though, can anyone give me any advice on what to look for?
What parts are normally missing, what parts are hard to get (all of them I guess!)

Any parts that often break or wear?
Are there any common things that can devalue a gun to collectors? I.e. commonly replaced parts etc.

When looking at old BSA's people don't like repro parts, obviously, and things like rear sight blades and trigger guard screws etc are the main culprits.
I know little about these old webleys though so am struggling to tell good ones from bad, apart from just judging the overall condition.

I often hoped the itch to own one would go away, but it's not.
Thanks.

If you can, find a copy of Chris Thrales excellent Webley Air Rifles book, it covers all the different models of the MK2 in great detail.

[Graemevw]

Thanks. Link has some good info and I'll look for the book too.
I guess it would be good to know if all the parts are correct.

I'm not too bothered what variation I get, I'm not too bothered if it has some mixed parts, or even repro parts.
But prices tend to vary, like most things, just want to make sure in pay about the right price for whatever gun I find.

They seem a bit thinner on the ground than they were 10 years ago, although maybe not that much more expensive than they were back then.

[Geezer]

If you can, find a copy of Chris Thrales excellent Webley Air Rifles book, it covers all the different models of the MK2 in great detail.

👆this

[Graemevw]

👆this

A quick look suggests it's both hard to find, and expensive!

[Lakey]

A quick look suggests it's both hard to find, and expensive!

Ahh, but you only buy it once. A wonderful book, and the Webley collectors bible !

[Lakey]

To answer your question properly, things I might check on a Webley Service would include.

First check the gun overall, and see that all the parts have even patination, and there are not obvious parts that look too new and out of place. Check all screwheads are in good condition. Check that it has all its three sights in place, and that they are complete. Have a look at the stamping on the gun to see that they are clear. Shallow hard to read ones could indicate a re-finish at some stage.

I would reject guns that have external pitting unless they are very cheap.

Check the stock over, looking for cracks, damage, and alterations. Some marks are OK ( ones that show the age of the gun, with normal wear and tear) but deep gouges and areas where the grain has been cut or torn should be avoided.

Then working from the front to the back of the gun, I would first check the crown, make sure it is well rounded, original, and there is no signs of rust going down inside the barrel. Check that the barrel looks straight, and the foresight is present and correct. Then you could check the barrel carriage, and the lock up of the barrel. You dont want excessive wear here. Check the hinge pin looks correct, and hasn't been damaged on either end.
Make sure the middle sight looks original and correct, and that the elevation wheel operates as it should.

Check the guns metal work of marks, including vice marks and evidence that the guns metal work has been struck, or impacted by a hard object, such as in a fall for example. This is impossible to put right, and it is better to wait for a better gun to come along.

Make sure the intercepting sear is in place, and operates when the barrel is lifted. Also make sure the mounts holding the sear and in good order and haven't been broken and re-welded/braized back, or altered.

Check the bolt for movement, and look down inside to check the barrel seal. Make sure the bolt handle itself isnt loose, as some rotate in the mounts.
Check the rear aperture sight closely and make sure all is well. Make sure the adjustment wheels are free running and operate as they should. Make sure the stock isnt loose on the action of the gun, as although this can be tightened, sometimes it can spell underlying corrosion problems. If possible, try operating the barrel (as if you were cocking the gun ) to make sure everything moves inside as it should. These guns operate with piston rings, which can sometimes go dry if the gun hasnt been used for a long while.
Finally check the horn butt plate, and make sure it is not broken or has bits missing.


Hope that helps

Lakey

[Graemevw]

To answer your question properly, things I might check on a Webley Service would include.

First check the gun overall, and see that all the parts have even patination, and there are not obvious parts that look too new and out of place. Check all screwheads are in good condition. Check that it has all its three sights in place, and that they are complete. Have a look at the stamping on the gun to see that they are clear. Shallow hard to read ones could indicate a re-finish at some stage.

I would reject guns that have external pitting unless they are very cheap.

Check the stock over, looking for cracks, damage, and alterations. Some marks are OK ( ones that show the age of the gun, with normal wear and tear) but deep gouges and areas where the grain has been cut or torn should be avoided.

Then working from the front to the back of the gun, I would first check the crown, make sure it is well rounded, original, and there is no signs of rust going down inside the barrel. Check that the barrel looks straight, and the foresight is present and correct. Then you could check the barrel carriage, and the lock up of the barrel. You dont want excessive wear here. Check the hinge pin looks correct, and hasn't been damaged on either end.
Make sure the middle sight looks original and correct, and that the elevation wheel operates as it should.

Check the guns metal work of marks, including vice marks and evidence that the guns metal work has been struck, or impacted by a hard object, such as in a fall for example. This is impossible to put right, and it is better to wait for a better gun to come along.

Make sure the intercepting sear is in place, and operates when the barrel is lifted. Also make sure the mounts holding the sear and in good order and haven't been broken and re-welded/braized back, or altered.

Check the bolt for movement, and look down inside to check the barrel seal. Make sure the bolt handle itself isnt loose, as some rotate in the mounts.
Check the rear aperture sight closely and make sure all is well. Make sure the adjustment wheels are free running and operate as they should. Make sure the stock isnt loose on the action of the gun, as although this can be tightened, sometimes it can spell underlying corrosion problems. If possible, try operating the barrel (as if you were cocking the gun ) to make sure everything moves inside as it should. These guns operate with piston rings, which can sometimes go dry if the gun hasnt been used for a long while.
Finally check the horn butt plate, and make sure it is not broken or has bits missing.


Hope that helps

Lakey

Thank you, that's very helpful. I'm sure I've read about barrel carriage and interceptor sear replacement so I guess these parts can give problems.

[slug-gun]

There are enough really good ones around that you don't need to worry about those with repro parts or damage etc. Just buy the best you can afford, and indeed the better the condition, the greater long term value it will retain.

The other thing to do is get educated re what you are buying. That usually means buying a book, the cost of which is largely irrelevant, as one buying 'mistake' can easily cost you more than the price of any book.

There used to be a saying: Every time you buy a new gun you should buy a new book. Not completely practical but I'm sure you get my drift. Often when buying a collectible you have to be in the position to make a decision on the spot as to whether to buy or not. By the time you have gone away to research the item in question, it will have been sold, that is if it was any good in the first place.

[Graemevw]

There are enough really good ones around that you don't need to worry about those with repro parts or damage etc. Just buy the best you can afford, and indeed the better the condition, the greater long term value it will retain.

The other thing to do is get educated re what you are buying. That usually means buying a book, the cost of which is largely irrelevant, as one buying 'mistake' can easily cost you more than the price of any book.

There used to be a saying: Every time you buy a new gun you should buy a new book. Not completely practical but I'm sure you get my drift. Often when buying a collectible you have to be in the position to make a decision on the spot as to whether to buy or not. By the time you have gone away to research the item in question, it will have been sold, that is if it was any good in the first place.

That last sentence is why I'm trying to get prepared now.
The book in question though, is unavailable. Not much I can do about that.
There is one on , but £200! Not paying that!

I'll keep researching, keep my eyes open for books, keep looking for guns, and hopefully I'll find the right one, at the right price, at the right time.
I'm not specifically looking for the best one I can find, just something honest which hopefully won't have too many unknown issues once ive bought it!

[Binners]

You have had some great advice here, Lakey has covered most tips, but the The Webley Air Rifle book is a must and can be obtained from Protek Supplies, I think.

If you are not concerned which variant you buy, the most common and cheapest would be a 3rd series in .22 calibre.

The book will give you better detail, but I personally narrow the series down to 3.

Welcome to what can be a slippery slope.

[Garvin]

That last sentence is why I'm trying to get prepared now.
The book in question though, is unavailable. Not much I can do about that.
There is one on , but £200! Not paying that!

I'll keep researching, keep my eyes open for books, keep looking for guns, and hopefully I'll find the right one, at the right price, at the right time.
I'm not specifically looking for the best one I can find, just something honest which hopefully won't have too many unknown issues once ive bought it!

Graeme there's no reason why you should know this, but you were just talking to the author of the Webley Air Rifles book.

PS your instincts are right - keep doing what you're doing.

[Graemevw]

You have had some great advice here, Lakey has covered most tips, but the The Webley Air Rifle book is a must and can be obtained from Protek Supplies, I think.

If you are not concerned which variant you buy, the most common and cheapest would be a 3rd series in .22 calibre.

The book will give you better detail, but I personally narrow the series down to 3.

Welcome to what can be a slippery slope.

Couldn't see it on their site. Maybe out of stock.

[Graemevw]

Graeme there's no reason why you should know this, but you were just talking to the author of the Webley Air Rifles book.

PS your instincts are right - keep doing what you're doing.

Really!?
Who, slug gun?

Hobnobbing with the elite now then! 😂