Opening up HW95k transfer port

[TORNADOS7]

Don't would be my advice, they need weight up front buddy, I had a mate machine up a weight to replace one of the hair curler sections in the silencer, made a world of difference to the accuracy...

Drop the short stroke, leave the guides in place, add weight to the silencer and set @ 10.5-11.0...

Ps, they're not much better in .22 either although they will shoot @ 11+ easier...

[Racing]

In all honesty i fail to see the absolute "need" for a reamer in the application.
Just drill the thing out and be done with it i say.

Difference in performance is about nil to all deadly ppl.

[eyebull]

Don't would be my advice, they need weight up front buddy, I had a mate machine up a weight to replace one of the hair curler sections in the silencer, made a world of difference to the accuracy...

Drop the short stroke, leave the guides in place, add weight to the silencer and set @ 10.5-11.0...

Ps, they're not much better in .22 either although they will shoot @ 11+ easier...

Have a heavyish steel silencer on there atm, may try knocking up a weight for it but I do want to give this a go.
I've bought the reamers now, I have to

In all honesty i fail to see the absolute "need" for a reamer in the application.
Just drill the thing out and be done with it i say.

It's just about avoiding having burrs in the compression chamber that could become swarf in the future. If I could get to the other side then I'd just drill no problem.

[TORNADOS7]

Have a heavyish steel silencer on there atm, may try knocking up a weight for it but I do want to give this a go.
I've bought the reamers now, I have to

Fair enough buddy, out of interest what silencer are you running on yours , I'm also looking for a heavier silencer for my current .22/95k...

Ps, I'd thought about reaming the transfer port on my Xocet but decided against it in the end, the biggest difference was a reduction in piston weight, standard was 273grms and a proper tooth rattler, currently it's @ 255 and the difference in shot cycle is massive, so much softer/less aggressive than before, this gun has smashed just about every scope I've very put on it over the years, looking to reduce further still if I can, 240 would be nice...

[eyebull]

Fair enough buddy, out of interest what silencer are you running on yours , I'm also looking for a heavier silencer for my current .22/95k...

Ps, I'd thought about reaming the transfer port on my Xocet but decided against it in the end, the biggest difference was a reduction in piston weight, standard was 273grms and a proper tooth rattler, currently it's @ 255 and the difference in shot cycle is massive, so much softer/less aggressive than before, this gun has smashed just about every scope I've very put on it over the years, looking to reduce further still if I can, 240 would be nice...

Its a Sportswaffen Schneider 'SWS' branded one, it weighs 176.5g compared to 113g for the standard HW moddy and is about 25mm shorter and 3/4mm narrower than the HW. Less effective at actual moderation obvs.
As I said earlier my biggest mistake was getting the k version - I've spent a lot of time trying in various forms to get the perfect smooth shooting light/mediumweight Carbine in the smaller (and tragically less efficient) calibre, and came to the conclusion that in .177 at least, you can either have short and smooth, or light and smooth, or short and light, but you can't have all three without some serious engineering work and a sacrifice to the airgun gods.

[robs5230]

Its a Sportswaffen Schneider 'SWS' branded one, it weighs 176.5g compared to 113g for the standard HW moddy and is about 25mm shorter and 3/4mm narrower than the HW. Less effective at actual moderation obvs.
As I said earlier my biggest mistake was getting the k version - I've spent a lot of time trying in various forms to get the perfect smooth shooting light/mediumweight Carbine in the smaller (and tragically less efficient) calibre, and came to the conclusion that in .177 at least, you can either have short and smooth, or light and smooth, or short and light, but you can't have all three without some serious engineering work and a sacrifice to the airgun gods.

Getting the 95 right demands a fair few correct components and modifications to be done in harmony.
Doing modifications in isolation, or using the wrong modifications together, is unlikely to work.

Before you open out the TP, I'd seek further information from those who recommend this action, about other aspects of their setup. Spring spec / weight, spacers, piston sleeve, piston seal and preload etc.
You need to understand what will happen as a result of your intended modification, and what changes you may need to make in tandem, before making those changes

[eyebull]

Getting the 95 right demands a fair few correct components and modifications to be done in harmony.
Doing modifications in isolation, or using the wrong modifications together, is unlikely to work.

Before you open out the TP, I'd seek further information from those who recommend this action, about other aspects of their setup. Spring spec / weight, spacers, piston sleeve, piston seal and preload etc.
You need to understand what will happen as a result of your intended modification, and what changes you may need to make in tandem, before making those changes

Oh I'm aware that this on its own won't be a magic bullet. It currently has the stock spring but I'm prepared to fit a softer one if required (and I'm thinking it might be). It currently has a tbt ss kit and this can be removed if needed, and preload can be played with. Plus the newer style seal to be added. More muzzle weight.
Lots of variables at play, and if it needs to be stripped down a half dozen times to get it right then I'll do that. Basic aim is to get it running in the high 10s to low 11s with as little stress and drama as possible which hopefully will translate to shootability.

[Waltherfan]

In all honesty i fail to see the absolute "need" for a reamer in the application.
Just drill the thing out and be done with it i say.

Difference in performance is about nil to all deadly ppl.

Correct! It’s a hole open it up! Really is simple as that! I’ve done dozens? Don’t make an easy job difficult?

[Shed tuner]

Correct! It’s a hole open it up! Really is simple as that! I’ve done dozens? Don’t make an easy job difficult?

the difference is in the flow characteristics caused by the rougher surface finish. the rougher port will flow like a smaller port at high air speeds, but provide less cushioning than a port actually of that equivalent size. if you are just looking for an improvement, you problably wont notice. if you are looking to get things just right, and you have some expertise is what that means, and how to measure it, you will.

so if you don't notice the difference, then by definition the drill is the right tool for you.

[eyebull]

The reamer did an extremely tidy job that isnt comparable to what youd get with a drill, for frankly little effort.
I work with metal and drill a few holes in a given day. None of them look like the inside of that transfer port. Reamer is the tool for the job.

[Shed tuner]

The reamer did an extremely tidy job that isnt comparable to what youd get with a drill, for frankly little effort.
I work with metal and drill a few holes in a given day. None of them look like the inside of that transfer port. Reamer is the tool for the job.

100%

[eyebull]

Finally got to shoot this at 30 yds yesterday after helping my dad zero his .243 for dsc1 exam (had a few shots myself and was surprised at how little recoil there was).
Groups started at about 3/4" but I managed to reduce this to about 1/2" after a few tries. All misses quite clearly down to me so a bit more practice and I should be able to get that down to 1/4".
Before I started all this tinkering it was more like an inch at 15 yds.
Incidentally fitting a Rowan extra setback trigger has also made it a lot easier to use, would recommend for every HW.