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Thread: Opening up HW95k transfer port

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  1. #1
    eyebull's Avatar
    eyebull is offline Even a stopped clock is right twice a day
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    use a hand reamer.. start with 1/8" 3.2mm

    3.4 / 3.5 will probably be optimal, and will prob give you around a foot pound
    How much will each reamer take off in a go? Do I need to have one for each 0.1mm increment? Because that could get spendy...


    Quote Originally Posted by Brano View Post
    How about a calibre change to smooth it out. A replacement .22 barrel might prove straight forward.
    Already have a silky smooth .22 HW95 bought from a member here, however I much prefer .177 for hunting unless at fixed ranges (e.g ambushing at a feeder) because of the more forgiving trajectory. The trick is finding or fettling a rifle of reasonable weight that's as forgiving!
    Should have got it in full length rather than Carbine tbh.
    Good deals with these members

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    Quote Originally Posted by eyebull View Post
    How much will each reamer take off in a go? Do I need to have one for each 0.1mm increment? Because that could get spendy...
    .
    they have a lead in.. typically around 0.2 - 0.4mm. Imperial 1/8" reamers are dirt cheap on the bay. You can also get taper reamers, which are fine, but you have to go from both sides, and are not so good on longer ported rifles like a 95.

    so basically you just buy a 1/8" and say a 3.4mm and you are covered...
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  3. #3
    eyebull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    they have a lead in.. typically around 0.2 - 0.4mm. Imperial 1/8" reamers are dirt cheap on the bay. You can also get taper reamers, which are fine, but you have to go from both sides, and are not so good on longer ported rifles like a 95.

    so basically you just buy a 1/8" and say a 3.4mm and you are covered...
    Thanks for that, reamers now on the way. I'll report back with results once I get round to it.
    Good deals with these members

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    Don't would be my advice, they need weight up front buddy, I had a mate machine up a weight to replace one of the hair curler sections in the silencer, made a world of difference to the accuracy...

    Drop the short stroke, leave the guides in place, add weight to the silencer and set @ 10.5-11.0...

    Ps, they're not much better in .22 either although they will shoot @ 11+ easier...
    .22 S410...
    .22 Webley Xocet...
    .22 HW95k...

  5. #5
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    In all honesty i fail to see the absolute "need" for a reamer in the application.
    Just drill the thing out and be done with it i say.

    Difference in performance is about nil to all deadly ppl.

  6. #6
    eyebull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TORNADOS7 View Post
    Don't would be my advice, they need weight up front buddy, I had a mate machine up a weight to replace one of the hair curler sections in the silencer, made a world of difference to the accuracy...

    Drop the short stroke, leave the guides in place, add weight to the silencer and set @ 10.5-11.0...

    Ps, they're not much better in .22 either although they will shoot @ 11+ easier...
    Have a heavyish steel silencer on there atm, may try knocking up a weight for it but I do want to give this a go.
    I've bought the reamers now, I have to

    Quote Originally Posted by Racing View Post
    In all honesty i fail to see the absolute "need" for a reamer in the application.
    Just drill the thing out and be done with it i say.
    It's just about avoiding having burrs in the compression chamber that could become swarf in the future. If I could get to the other side then I'd just drill no problem.
    Good deals with these members

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by eyebull View Post
    Have a heavyish steel silencer on there atm, may try knocking up a weight for it but I do want to give this a go.
    I've bought the reamers now, I have to
    Fair enough buddy, out of interest what silencer are you running on yours , I'm also looking for a heavier silencer for my current .22/95k...

    Ps, I'd thought about reaming the transfer port on my Xocet but decided against it in the end, the biggest difference was a reduction in piston weight, standard was 273grms and a proper tooth rattler, currently it's @ 255 and the difference in shot cycle is massive, so much softer/less aggressive than before, this gun has smashed just about every scope I've very put on it over the years, looking to reduce further still if I can, 240 would be nice...
    Last edited by TORNADOS7; 19-01-2022 at 11:31 PM.
    .22 S410...
    .22 Webley Xocet...
    .22 HW95k...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Racing View Post
    In all honesty i fail to see the absolute "need" for a reamer in the application.
    Just drill the thing out and be done with it i say.

    Difference in performance is about nil to all deadly ppl.
    Correct! It’s a hole open it up! Really is simple as that! I’ve done dozens? Don’t make an easy job difficult?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waltherfan View Post
    Correct! It’s a hole open it up! Really is simple as that! I’ve done dozens? Don’t make an easy job difficult?
    the difference is in the flow characteristics caused by the rougher surface finish. the rougher port will flow like a smaller port at high air speeds, but provide less cushioning than a port actually of that equivalent size. if you are just looking for an improvement, you problably wont notice. if you are looking to get things just right, and you have some expertise is what that means, and how to measure it, you will.

    so if you don't notice the difference, then by definition the drill is the right tool for you.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

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