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Thread: Bsa cadet major trigger

  1. #1
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    Bsa cadet major trigger

    I made a ptfe breech seal for my CM. It still leaks, think I over trimmed it, but it shows promise. I'll try again.
    But, while just doing some testing, I realised it's pretty accurate!
    At 6 yards I'm probably not much worse than I am with my walther lgr, and i have to try with the lgr, just point and shoot with the cadet.
    I imagine this says more about my lack of skill than anything else, but got me wondering. Can anything be done with the trigger on the CM?
    I don't mind it, it's just a bit heavy, even when fully adjusted.
    Looking at the adjustment, it looks like it just shortens throw. Also looks like while shortening throw it should be making it heavier. In use though, it doesn't seem to work like that.
    It feels reasonably smooth and predictable in its unpredictability, but surely someone has played with the triggers on these?
    It's odd, when pulling the trigger I think I've got no idea when it's going to break and yet I always seem to make It break at the right time, so it must be more predictable than I think.

    I'm going to my bell target club tomorrow. I'm tempted to leave the target rifles at home and just take the CM!
    Old German target rifles and even older BSA's

  2. #2
    ggggr's Avatar
    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graemevw View Post
    I made a ptfe breech seal for my CM. It still leaks, think I over trimmed it, but it shows promise. I'll try again.
    But, while just doing some testing, I realised it's pretty accurate!
    At 6 yards I'm probably not much worse than I am with my walther lgr, and i have to try with the lgr, just point and shoot with the cadet.
    I imagine this says more about my lack of skill than anything else, but got me wondering. Can anything be done with the trigger on the CM?
    I don't mind it, it's just a bit heavy, even when fully adjusted.
    Looking at the adjustment, it looks like it just shortens throw. Also looks like while shortening throw it should be making it heavier. In use though, it doesn't seem to work like that.
    It feels reasonably smooth and predictable in its unpredictability, but surely someone has played with the triggers on these?
    It's odd, when pulling the trigger I think I've got no idea when it's going to break and yet I always seem to make It break at the right time, so it must be more predictable than I think.

    I'm going to my bell target club tomorrow. I'm tempted to leave the target rifles at home and just take the CM!
    When you think about it, the Cadet and the Major have the same direct trigger onto the piston rod ---I.e. no sear so all the adjuster screw does is to reduce the engagement between the trigger and the piston rod. You are right in that it shortens the throw.
    I've never bothered to tinker with a trigger on a Cadet or Major as I like them to be as they are (the heavy trigger was a "safety" selling point on the Cadet I think?).
    I wouldnt really try to angle the holding face of the trigger or the piston rod, but just lightly stone any marks off them.
    If you get a softer mainspring in there, that will give you a lighter trigger pull. Its something i do with some of the direct trigger , older guns.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ggggr View Post
    When you think about it, the Cadet and the Major have the same direct trigger onto the piston rod ---I.e. no sear so all the adjuster screw does is to reduce the engagement between the trigger and the piston rod. You are right in that it shortens the throw.
    I've never bothered to tinker with a trigger on a Cadet or Major as I like them to be as they are (the heavy trigger was a "safety" selling point on the Cadet I think?).
    I wouldnt really try to angle the holding face of the trigger or the piston rod, but just lightly stone any marks off them.
    If you get a softer mainspring in there, that will give you a lighter trigger pull. Its something i do with some of the direct trigger , older guns.
    Agreed, don't want to mess with any angles.
    I didn't take the trigger apart when I cleaned the gun out, it all seemed good, but I didn't rebuild it with smoothness in mind, just wanted it working well. I'll stone and polish the contact points.

    Good point on the spring though. I'll chrono it and see if I can loose some power. I'd be happy with anything between 5 and 6 really as it will only get 6 yard target use really.

    I don't know why I'm surprised how good it seems. I kept my mk1 airsporter and my mk2 mercury as they were both very accurate. Seems in the 1950s and earlier bsa really knew how to make a barrel!
    I bought the CM as I thought it would be easy for my other half to use, but I suspect it's going to become a bit of a favourite for me too.
    Old German target rifles and even older BSA's

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    A word of warning. Due to the basic trigger design the adjustment on the CM just reduces contact area, as mentioned above. Be careful when adjusting because if you go to far the engagement becomes unreliable. Hence the fair number of bent barrels found!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajj View Post
    A word of warning. Due to the basic trigger design the adjustment on the CM just reduces contact area, as mentioned above. Be careful when adjusting because if you go to far the engagement becomes unreliable. Hence the fair number of bent barrels found!
    It seems quite reliable near the extreme. It seems to just suddenly start to not catch when cocked. Doesn't seem to go unreliable first. At that extreme of adjustment it's no better than when it's set at a safer level though so it's not near that stage now.
    I'll bear that in mind if I do any more rigged work on it though, thanks.
    Old German target rifles and even older BSA's

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