Quote Originally Posted by Adam77K View Post
You'd be surprised, especially on sloping ground how easy it is to be a few degrees out by eye.

In FT sitting you're in a stable position and it's the work of a second to glance at the level to check. As above it's quite an eye opener sometimes when you think the rifle is level and the bubble is way over one side. I like to set the bubble so I can see it in the field of vision of the non-aiming eye so I don't even need to come out of the aim.

A 5 degree cant will cause a 1" shift of POI at 50 yards. Yes of course on flat ground you'd spot 5 degrees a mile off but in a wood, when the ground is undulating, you can't see the horizon, when your shooting position is on a slope and your target isn't on the same level as you it's a lot harder. Very easy to deceive the eye.
I could not have said it better myself

Quote Originally Posted by 4end View Post
If you think you know far better, fine, but I think you know very little to nothing about levelling. The first consideration in a level is, is it accurate and does it have a kitemark and comply with the current British Standards for levels, if they dont, and I am sure that will be the case with these cheap examples then they are worthless. Scope levels made by the companies you mention are like fishing floats, many made to catch the angler who is daft enough to buy them rather than the fish. It does not matter how many levels you affix to a gun, there is no way of knowing the gun is truly sat level in the stock so anything attached to the gun or scope will potentially give a point of reference but not one that is truly level.
We can only do what we can only do, there will always be limitations in our equipment, but we can only try our best to do the best we can with what we've got. I'm not a level expert, clearly you are, so if you can offer us all a cheap and workable solution, which can be demonstrated to offer significant gains from what we currently use, then I'd love to have your input

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