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Thread: BSA Meteor and Supersport Questions...

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  1. #1
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    BSA Meteor and Supersport Questions...

    Hi Chaps,

    Sorry but it begins. I have several questions regarding the BSA Meteor mainly but also the Supersport. I own both but don't know much about the Supersport, how does it differ mainly from the Meteor design? My Supersport is a carbine and is of noticably better build quality than my Meteors and is probably my favourite rifle in .22 How much would a Supersport carbine be in .177?

    For the Meteor is there a tuning kit? Again in .177? Woodfield guns dos not seem to sell one, is it a case of do it yourself?

    Thanks for your time guys, I will be back with more questions if I get hold of a MK4 in .177

  2. #2
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    From my point of view the Supersport is an enlarged Meteor made from tube rather than the folded and rolled sheet construction of the Meteor.

    The SS piston is sealed with a parachute type seal rather than the o-ring of the Meteor.

    So, the SS is bigger, better made and arguably better sealed, but close enough in size and design to ensure that the barrel assemblies will swap over.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for that Lightening, I never realised that the barrels could be swapped over! What happens if one puts a .177 barrel on an action that had a .22 barrel on it? Does the power go up or down? I am attempting to gather .177 rifles in future as I have nearly all .22 at the moment.
    I wonder if anyone has ever tried a parachute seal on a meteor? Not for me to try just an idle thought.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamocfx View Post
    Thanks for that Lightening, I never realised that the barrels could be swapped over! What happens if one puts a .177 barrel on an action that had a .22 barrel on it? Does the power go up or down? I am attempting to gather .177 rifles in future as I have nearly all .22 at the moment.
    I wonder if anyone has ever tried a parachute seal on a meteor? Not for me to try just an idle thought.
    Not all meteor and supersport barrels are directly swappable.
    If you have an old mk1-4 meteor, the cocking lever is wider than on the mk5-6 meteor and Supersport.

    .177 is usually less efficient than .22, unless the .22 has a really short barrel.

    Putting a parachyte seal on a meteor is a good idea, you can gain some stroke and get more efficient sealing.
    But it requires a new piston front, which has to be made on a lathe.
    Too many airguns!

  5. #5
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    Thanks Evert, maybe the piston seal conversion is way beyond my skills but a barrel should be manageable. Just to confirm the MK4 will not fit? I am sure that I read somewhere that a pellet is slowing down before it leaves the barrel even? As there is no propellant expanding behind the projectile the barrel length only really affects accuracy?
    I could well be wrong but I am sure its in print somewhere. As you can gues where this is going I wanted to create a .177 Meteor carbine.

    One last question (for now) has anyone ever stripped the paint off of a Meteor and blued the action?

    What cbrand of cold blue is best to use (ie easiest and most effective?)

    Sorry that was two questions.

  6. #6
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    The barrel from a Supersport will not fit the mk1-2-3-4 meteors, as the cocking linkage on those
    meteors is wider than the later articulated linkage on the Supersport and mk5-6 meteors.

    I'd recommend to not use cold blue on anything, as it smells bad and does not stand well up to wear.
    Too many airguns!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamocfx View Post
    Thanks Evert, maybe the piston seal conversion is way beyond my skills but a barrel should be manageable. Just to confirm the MK4 will not fit? I am sure that I read somewhere that a pellet is slowing down before it leaves the barrel even? As there is no propellant expanding behind the projectile the barrel length only really affects accuracy?
    I could well be wrong but I am sure its in print somewhere. As you can gues where this is going I wanted to create a .177 Meteor carbine.

    One last question (for now) has anyone ever stripped the paint off of a Meteor and blued the action?

    What cbrand of cold blue is best to use (ie easiest and most effective?)

    Sorry that was two questions.
    Evert is of course right ref the cocking link, though I’m pretty sure they can be made to fit in needed with some work and a big hammer/grinder.. ;-)

    There is a reason the rifles are painted, the metal isn’t particularly well finished and it isn’t a five minute job to make it presentable, though it’s far from impossible.

    I’m not a fan of cold bluing either, far better and probably cheaper to rust blue.

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