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Thread: Stock Conditioning Without Danish Oil?

  1. #1
    chris u'5 is offline I'm a dumbass, it's official!!
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    Stock Conditioning Without Danish Oil?

    For some time now I've been meaning to treat the stock on my HW100 with Danish oil as it is starting to appear a bit 'dry'

    Unfortunately I don't get a lot of time with my guns these days so when I do I like to actually shoot so these kind of jobs tend to get slightly neglected, especially this job considering the multiple coats, drying time etc.

    Therefore I was wondering if there is anything on the market that I could use quickly and in the short term until I finally get around to completing the project properly?

    I was thinking something that could just be applied to a cloth and rubbed on quickly just to give the stock a bit of a shine and show more of the grain.

    Obviously the Danish Oil route is the way to go but if anyone had any advice (apart from "stop being a lazy bastard") I'd really appreciate it.

    All the best,
    Chris
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    I am a carpenter by trade and make fountain pens as a hobby. There are loads of wood finishes out there, but in your position whatever you use needs to work with your desired final finish Danish oil... Personally I would bit the bullet, drop the action out and wipe one coat in the morning or evening each day for a week job done....

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    Liberon finishing oil.
    2 mins to apply, wait 10 mins, four minutes to rub off.
    Leave overnight to dry.

    Keep applying as many coats as you like.
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC all day View Post
    I am a carpenter by trade and make fountain pens as a hobby. There are loads of wood finishes out there, but in your position whatever you use needs to work with your desired final finish Danish oil... Personally I would bit the bullet, drop the action out and wipe one coat in the morning or evening each day for a week job done....
    I agree = stop being the lazy bastard. Itís only for a week or so and you will really appreciate the difference it makes when you do it properly.

  5. #5
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    Any boiled linseed oil based conditioning oil.
    Leave on for an hour, wipe off with 3 in 1. Apply 24 coats a day if you have time.
    Job done.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig-P View Post
    Leave on for an hour, wipe off with 3 in 1.
    apology for hi jack. Is that 3 in 1 oil? Or ratio o BLO turps etc?

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    Quote Originally Posted by deejayuu View Post
    apology for hi jack. Is that 3 in 1 oil? Or ratio o BLO turps etc?
    Yes, 3 in 1 oil.
    You can buy TS95 ( from Philips if I remember correctly ) but if you're doing a high volume of work then it becomes pricey, so it's better to source something else with similar properties.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig-P View Post
    Yes, 3 in 1 oil.
    You can buy TS95 ( from Philips if I remember correctly ) but if you're doing a high volume of work then it becomes pricey, so it's better to source something else with similar properties.
    Well, well! Thought 3 in 1 was straight SAE 20 oil or was when our Mam squirted it on everything. Sewing, machine, our bikes, Dad's alarm clock, the shed door hinges etc etc
    Always thought lube oil in the wood would oxidise and stain it black.
    Thanks for the info. Going to have a play.
    Is the 3 in 1 just soaked into a cloth and wiped or rubbed hard please?
    Last edited by deejayuu; 27-05-2022 at 07:56 AM.

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    Danish oil is adulterated linseed oil that sometimes contains harmful additives and would be one of the last finishes I would apply to a decent gunstock. As for using 3 in 1 you would be mixing a mineral oil with a natural one and not to be recommended. If as you say you do not spend much time with your gun then a wipe-over with raw linseed is as good as it gets, it will have soaked in within a couple of days leaving no sticky residue as the boiled version can do. As someone who was apprenticed to the trade 60 years ago and was taught all about the different finishes, I am sometimes horrified at advice given and consider a little knowledge potentially dangerous. If you stick to natural oils and polishes rather than other propriety products then you will not go far wrong.

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    chris u'5 is offline I'm a dumbass, it's official!!
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    Thank you guys, much appreciated.

    So if I do get my finger out and do the job properly how easy is it to mess up? I've never oiled a rifle stock before and I'm worried about the final finish.
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    It's certainly not rocket science and anyone can do it using traditional means. Buy, beg, steal or acquire some Alkanet/Red oil if you want to deepen the wood colour otherwise buy some refined artist-grade linseed oil. I won't recommend boiled linseed as it can give problems if applied too thickly and turns into a sticky mess. Pour out a capful and dab the pad of your forefinger just into the surface of it, flick off the excess and there you have enough to do half of one side of a stock. Spread this over the butt and massage into the surface, repeat for the forend and for the cut outs where the action sits. Repeat for the other side.
    If your stock is dry and hungry the oil will soak in quite quickly, when it has disappeared give it another coat. If you wish to achieve a traditional oil finish rather than applying a oil dressing, carry on reapplying oil until it will not soak up anymore and once the oil has oxidised within the wood it can be polished to a lustrous finish with the palm of your hand.
    Now tell me what is difficult about that?

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    xbow is offline "Right a bit, left a bit............"
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    I thought Tru-Oil was something of a standard for gun stocks?

    Danish oil can contain any old crap the manufacturers want to put in it so can vary wildly from one manufacturer to another. I canít stand the stuff.
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    i used to use boiled linseed but very thinly

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    flyingfish is offline I may only have 5 but I have the best 5
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    I have never had a problem with ColronDanish oil. I believe it is mainly Tung oil
    Pete

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    Stock Conditioning Without Danish Oil?

    Quote Originally Posted by flyingfish View Post
    I have never had a problem with ColronDanish oil. I believe it is mainly Tung oil
    I only use it on bare wood if i've stripped a stock back to re-finish it a couple of coats, then ccl stock conditioning oil rubbed well in to finish, suspect that's all the op would need on his HW100 unless he's stripped it right back to bare wood, i only use danish as it has rot inhibitors in it on bare wood only.

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