Kills me I didn’t have it at the airgun show last Saturday for you to look at. As I see it that crack will not move? Just not a hit of it as I put a lot of pressure on it? But your tourniquet idea is a safe way to tell. Just got to talk my wife out of some pantyhose. Wish me luck!
Last edited by 45flint; 08-06-2022 at 04:16 PM.
Even if you can close the crack to any degee you won't get it to stay closed ( bonded ) without damaging the chequering, and being 100 year old walnut it could crack again around the stock bolt hole.
How much is the rifle worth? If not much then what have you to lose?
If the crack continues then what value the rifle with a fully bust stock?
All wood shrinks, and once a crack starts then it's not going to heal itself. In fact it will usually travel.
I would use Phil's method, and draitzer's stocking tourniquet method.
A touch of wax first where you don't want glue to stick.
Give plenty of setting time for the glue to go solid hard; fully cure.
Final finish can mean dye, paint, whatever it takes. However, do not do a whole stock strip as it won't end up better. Guns of such age and use are expected to show their history. Just keep it honest.
How much is the rifle worth? If not much then what have you to lose?
If the crack continues then what value the rifle with a fully bust stock?
All wood shrinks, and once a crack starts then it's not going to heal itself. In fact it will usually travel.
I would use Phil's method, and draitzer's stocking tourniquet method.
A touch of wax first where you don't want glue to stick.
Give plenty of setting time for the glue to go solid hard; fully cure.
Final finish can mean dye, paint, whatever it takes. However, do not do a whole stock strip as it won't end up better. Guns of such age and use are expected to show their history. Just keep it honest.
The decision of just fill or close depends if the wood wants to. It might be too dry and it's a lot of work with steam and hot oil to change that; too much. Either way will be honest.