Laminate stock refinish -advice

[R0B]

Morning :-)

I've got a Fx Crown laminate stock, which has a cou6of badly drilled sling holes and an area where the finish is lifting where a bipod was fitted . Can I use something like Nitromoors to remove the coating, which appears to be quite thick?. Any recommendations as to block the holes.....I'd prefer hidden, but if not, what would work best please?. It is the pepper coloured stock.

Thanks

Rob

[clipper]

I'll be watching this thread for the finishing tips as I've got a HW100 laminate stock with a few age related marks and have considered stripping the factory varnish

Sugru might be a good way to fill the holes - comes in a huge range of colours, and can even be mixed to create different colours like you can with plasticine

[Thegreg]

Hopefully I can help with this because I asked the exact same question a couple of years ago on another forum. I had a Sako 85 laminate stock with holes that I wanted to fill, and also refinish because the lacquer was damaged in places.

Nitromors is rubbish these days, seriously don’t bother with it. The EU forced them to remove all the ingredients that actually did anything. You can however still get industrial paint stripper. “Synstrip” is one that I’ve used, but proceed with caution..I will as worried it would affect the glue sticking the laminates together, so in the end the old finish was scraped off. Very effective actually.

The stock was refinished by a friend of mine. The drilled holes were filled with a matching colour wood filler, somethings even filling the hole with 2 different shades where it crossed two plys. It was finished with Tru-oil, and flatted to a matt/satin buff, which honestly looks just like the factory finish. I was prepared for a disaster but it actually turned out superb, and I’m very critical.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Greg

[BC312]

You can still buy the strong paint remover of or from your local car body paint supplier, just say its for restoring a vintage car, get this brand you could get it on in smaller quantities just like the old stuff https://refinishsystems.com/product/...xoCvtkQAvD_BwE Starchem.

[R0B]

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a go.

[Tricky-Ricky]

Once you have stripped the stock I use varying grades of wet n dry paper to get the desired finish and then use Danish oil, you can get anything from pretty matt to gloss depending on the number of coats and the way it's applied, I usually apply with a sponge and then wait from 2 to 5 mins depending on temperature and wipe off with a lint free cloth and then leave to dry for 24 hours and then repeat if necessary to get the desired finish.

[BC312]

Once you have stripped the stock I use varying grades of wet n dry paper to get the desired finish and then use Danish oil, you can get anything from pretty matt to gloss depending on the number of coats and the way it's applied, I usually apply with a sponge and then wait from 2 to 5 mins depending on temperature and wipe off with a lint free cloth and then leave to dry for 24 hours and then repeat if necessary to get the desired finish.

Or use True Oil.

[Logunner]

What are the finish options on a laminate stock? Obviously Danish oil and Tru oil have already been mentioned, but are there any other options.

[BC312]

You can give it a clear lacquer spray finish.

[Tricky-Ricky]

What are the finish options on a laminate stock? Obviously Danish oil and True oil have already been mentioned, but are there any other options.

There is always the raw or boiled linseed oil option, not tried it on laminate but no reason it shouldn't work, but it will take time, and it will eventually yellow the finish...like other oils do,
Danish and True oil both contain linseed oil by the way but also varnish and thinners etc, true is quicker but will tend to leave a shiny finish, Danish you have to build up if you want shiny, true is slightly more water-resistant than Danish, most laminate stock makers use Danish, but the lacquer option can also work but depending on the type of finish you want to achieve

[Logunner]

There is always the raw or boiled linseed oil option, not tried it on laminate but no reason it shouldn't work, but it will take time, and it will eventually yellow the finish...like other oils do,
Danish and True oil both contain linseed oil by the way but also varnish and thinners etc, true is quicker but will tend to leave a shiny finish, Danish you have to build up if you want shiny, true is slightly more water-resistant than Danish, most laminate stock makers use Danish, but the lacquer option can also work but depending on the type of finish you want to achieve

Yellow laminate so the oil causing yellowing might be a bonus

[BC312]

True oil can be tone down to a satin finish. Let it go hard and take it down with fine scotch bright or fine grit wet and dry, then wax.

[DeeDoubleU]

Morning :-)

I've got a Fx Crown laminate stock, which has a cou6of badly drilled sling holes and an area where the finish is lifting where a bipod was fitted . Can I use something like Nitromoors to remove the coating, which appears to be quite thick?. Any recommendations as to block the holes.....I'd prefer hidden, but if not, what would work best please?. It is the pepper coloured stock.

Thanks

Rob

Hi, Some two pack finishes can be almost untouched by modern stripping formulations, vehicle refinish shops may sell you suitable chemicals, or it may require Sanding off.
I have not done a laminate, but have refinished two walnut shotgun stocks by sanding and scraping, then finishing with with birchwoods Tru-Oil.
It was surprisingly easy to apply in very thin hand rubbed coats, fast drying, and dust is the only real enemy.
I also used the same company’s grain sealer the second time around, which seemed better still. Just follow the many guides if you use this well proven finish, it can be flatted back or polished to an incredibly high sheen. I had a old bottle of Birchwoods stock sheen and conditioner and it cuts the tiniest amount back (I think it’s likely fine pumice based)
Good luck, I think with care you will be happy with Tru-Oil, if you choose that route, once ready to finish again.

Best
Dave

[4end]

What are the finish options on a laminate stock? Obviously Danish oil and Tru oil have already been mentioned, but are there any other options.

Laminate stocks are made in a similar way to plywood with many wood 'laminates' glued together to form baulk from which the stock is cut. No self-respecting craftsman would even consider using Danish oil or Tru oil as a stock finishing medium when ordinary linseed oil can provide a superior traditional finish. Danish oil is linseed based but with all sorts of not very nice additives and Tru oil is not an oil but an over priced polyurethane-based product. Linseed will not harm the laminate adhesive and will soak in to produce a traditional oil finish. My choice would be raw linseed as that's what it is whereas the boiled variety contains additives. Raw linseed will not dry gummy and any excess can be wiped off, boiled can dry on the surface without soaking in leaving a gummy deposit that can be difficult to remove.
There is also Tung oil which could be used, however, as it takes an eternity for each coat to dry it's not popular but does provide a fully waterproof finish if you have the perseverance.

[Banjo]

This is worth a watch.

https://youtu.be/239uKqeSFsI