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Thread: Laminate stock refinish -advice

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  1. #1
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    You can still buy the strong paint remover of or from your local car body paint supplier, just say its for restoring a vintage car, get this brand you could get it on in smaller quantities just like the old stuff https://refinishsystems.com/product/...xoCvtkQAvD_BwE Starchem.

  2. #2
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    Thanks for the info. I'll give it a go.

  3. #3
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    Once you have stripped the stock I use varying grades of wet n dry paper to get the desired finish and then use Danish oil, you can get anything from pretty matt to gloss depending on the number of coats and the way it's applied, I usually apply with a sponge and then wait from 2 to 5 mins depending on temperature and wipe off with a lint free cloth and then leave to dry for 24 hours and then repeat if necessary to get the desired finish.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricky-Ricky View Post
    Once you have stripped the stock I use varying grades of wet n dry paper to get the desired finish and then use Danish oil, you can get anything from pretty matt to gloss depending on the number of coats and the way it's applied, I usually apply with a sponge and then wait from 2 to 5 mins depending on temperature and wipe off with a lint free cloth and then leave to dry for 24 hours and then repeat if necessary to get the desired finish.
    Or use True Oil.

  5. #5
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    What are the finish options on a laminate stock? Obviously Danish oil and Tru oil have already been mentioned, but are there any other options.

  6. #6
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    You can give it a clear lacquer spray finish.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logunner View Post
    What are the finish options on a laminate stock? Obviously Danish oil and True oil have already been mentioned, but are there any other options.
    There is always the raw or boiled linseed oil option, not tried it on laminate but no reason it shouldn't work, but it will take time, and it will eventually yellow the finish...like other oils do,
    Danish and True oil both contain linseed oil by the way but also varnish and thinners etc, true is quicker but will tend to leave a shiny finish, Danish you have to build up if you want shiny, true is slightly more water-resistant than Danish, most laminate stock makers use Danish, but the lacquer option can also work but depending on the type of finish you want to achieve

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricky-Ricky View Post
    There is always the raw or boiled linseed oil option, not tried it on laminate but no reason it shouldn't work, but it will take time, and it will eventually yellow the finish...like other oils do,
    Danish and True oil both contain linseed oil by the way but also varnish and thinners etc, true is quicker but will tend to leave a shiny finish, Danish you have to build up if you want shiny, true is slightly more water-resistant than Danish, most laminate stock makers use Danish, but the lacquer option can also work but depending on the type of finish you want to achieve

    Yellow laminate so the oil causing yellowing might be a bonus

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logunner View Post
    What are the finish options on a laminate stock? Obviously Danish oil and Tru oil have already been mentioned, but are there any other options.
    Laminate stocks are made in a similar way to plywood with many wood 'laminates' glued together to form baulk from which the stock is cut. No self-respecting craftsman would even consider using Danish oil or Tru oil as a stock finishing medium when ordinary linseed oil can provide a superior traditional finish. Danish oil is linseed based but with all sorts of not very nice additives and Tru oil is not an oil but an over priced polyurethane-based product. Linseed will not harm the laminate adhesive and will soak in to produce a traditional oil finish. My choice would be raw linseed as that's what it is whereas the boiled variety contains additives. Raw linseed will not dry gummy and any excess can be wiped off, boiled can dry on the surface without soaking in leaving a gummy deposit that can be difficult to remove.
    There is also Tung oil which could be used, however, as it takes an eternity for each coat to dry it's not popular but does provide a fully waterproof finish if you have the perseverance.

  10. #10
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    This is worth a watch.

    https://youtu.be/239uKqeSFsI

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