The Perfect Break Barrel

[TonyL]

Mmmmm.......this is a toughie with a good few very worthy contenders.......

In the heavyweight camp it simply has to be either the PE or the '80. Suitably sleeved if going "ultimate" and, possibly, with the Venom / V-Mach style breech shim conversion for the 80. A custom stock to suit the owner's taste and ergonomic requirements and with a Slimtech style silencer / barrel weight.

But I'd be more than happy to choose from any of the following HWs too......35, 95, 98 and 99. The 35 would stay on irons and original stock. 98 on original stock. Happy with the standard stocks on 99 and 95, personally, but would have to go for a custom stock if going "ultimate" status again.

[Shed tuner]

For the discerning, when it comes to break barrels it's between a PE or an 80 nothing comes close

whilst I kinda agree, having both full fat and reduced cylinder versions of both, I think the PE is a little OTT at 12 FP, but it does shoot very nice with a 25mm reduced cylinder. It's more fun, and actually shoots really well at 20 Fp though - the accuracy at 40 odd yards is pretty amazing. The 80 reduced to 24mm is just plain nice.

[TonyL]

And it's such a shame that the plug was pulled on the Umarex Walther LGV. A hybrid version, with either CD or Rekord trigger grafted in, would be right up there.

[lampy165]

Most easily available would be a HW98.

BSA Supersport and have it worked upon would also be easy.

I have seen brummie webleys come up on the sales thread.

I agree in some ways, I have the early British one in mint condition.
its so light, I need to chronograph it and look into work on it to stop the twang.
the later Spanish (I Believe)made one is much heavier and bluing seemed very thin.
interested in anyone who has had the early British one tuned or done it themselves and their thoughts.
Lampy

[look no hands]

Mmmmm.......this is a toughie with a good few very worthy contenders.......

In the heavyweight camp it simply has to be either the PE or the '80. Suitably sleeved if going "ultimate" and, possibly, with the Venom / V-Mach style breech shim conversion for the 80. A custom stock to suit the owner's taste and ergonomic requirements and with a Slimtech style silencer / barrel weight.

But I'd be more than happy to choose from any of the following HWs too......35, 95, 98 and 99. The 35 would stay on irons and original stock. 98 on original stock. Happy with the standard stocks on 99 and 95, personally, but would have to go for a custom stock if going "ultimate" status again.

The other thing is, what power should this ultimate rifle be putting out and being used for? If we are going by the original posters guide lines then he (we) would already have a hunting rifle and a HFT/FT rifle, so is this rifle to be a plinker/boinger bash bench style target/can busting rifle, in which case why not have your much loved and recommended HW30 fully tarted up with lovely walnut stock and worked on inside to produce a bit more power but not to stress it and have an almost recoiless, easy to cock, lightweight enjoyable to shoot all day without fatigue rifle, what more can you ask for.

Pete

[evert]

........But I’d like to know, if money was no object, what would be your perfect break barrel?

Ali

A HW95 with a barrel sleeve somewhat lighter than the HW98, a short stroked piston and a straight classic laminate stock.

[evert]

I agree in some ways, I have the early British one in mint condition.
its so light, I need to chronograph it and look into work on it to stop the twang.
the later Spanish (I Believe)made one is much heavier and bluing seemed very thin.
interested in anyone who has had the early British one tuned or done it themselves and their thoughts.
Lampy

Mechanically good Supersports can be VERY nice if set up properly.

[look no hands]

I agree in some ways, I have the early British one in mint condition.
its so light, I need to chronograph it and look into work on it to stop the twang.
the later Spanish (I Believe)made one is much heavier and bluing seemed very thin.
interested in anyone who has had the early British one tuned or done it themselves and their thoughts.
Lampy

I have an early Supersport Custom, which was a special model BSA did, it has the Superstar trigger, barrel hinge bolt and lovely beech stock like what they fitted to the Super/Goldstars with checkering and high cheek piece, I've fitted a true .25 barrel to mine (not the early tight .243 barrels) and just fitted some delrin guides to the original spring, it shoots nice, it still has a bit if recoil and I'm sure it could perform better with a proper tune but I just enjoy shooting it as it is at the moment, I may get it looked at in the future.

Pete

[TonyL]

The other thing is, what power should this ultimate rifle be putting out and being used for? If we are going by the original posters guide lines then he (we) would already have a hunting rifle and a HFT/FT rifle, so is this rifle to be a plinker/boinger bash bench style target/can busting rifle, in which case why not have your much loved and recommended HW30 fully tarted up with lovely walnut stock and worked on inside to produce a bit more power but not to stress it and have an almost recoiless, easy to cock, lightweight enjoyable to shoot all day without fatigue rifle, what more can you ask for.

Pete

You don't know how much knowing that you've fallen for the little 30's charms fills me with warmth, Pete.

[TonyL]

I agree in some ways, I have the early British one in mint condition.
its so light, I need to chronograph it and look into work on it to stop the twang.
the later Spanish (I Believe)made one is much heavier and bluing seemed very thin.
interested in anyone who has had the early British one tuned or done it themselves and their thoughts.
Lampy

Mechanically good Supersports can be VERY nice if set up properly.

My cosmetically challenged early model shoots beautifully, as witnessed by a good few attendees of The Boinger Bash. In .22. Deburred, polished, moly treated, tight fitting Delrin guides and standard spring. That standard spring was gradually shortened over three sessions.......at 14.5 ft.lbs it cocked smoothly and effortlessly and shot very sweetly. Now doing mid-11 with even less cocking effort (full length barrel), very calm firing cycle and fine accuracy. It'll never have the finesse of my HWs, but is a useful, accurate and characterful tool that is a keeper.

[prosport.177]

LGV 25mm already tuned and once trigger is sorted it is bang on.. much like a venom 80 reduced 25mm but cheaper

[look no hands]

You don't know how much knowing that you've fallen for the little 30's charms fills me with warmth, Pete.

It's not perfect Tone and my .25 still pips it to the post but I can imagine a nicely tuned .22 in a CS500 stock would be a lovely little plinker, I have to admit the little .177 with the Maple stock I shot at the first bash I went to was lovely but it would have been better in .22 as it seemed a little bit lively to me.

But Karen's little 30 is growing on me and it does bring a smile to my face when you hit the targets at the bashes, it obviously helps when you finally find the right pellets thanks to you and your tight arse ways buying cheap pellets but I have to say they do the trick and I now have a few tins for us to send down range in a couple of weeks time.

Pete

[Dornfelderliebe]

My Meteor with a record trigger and a parachute seal,

[T 20]

My Meteor with a record trigger and a parachute seal,

Interesting, piston used ? Cassette mounting method ?


image.jpeg





All the best Mick

[Dornfelderliebe]

I was talking purely hypothetically because I have no idea how to graft one onto the meteor piston and the 70s (probably 50s) trigger surely could be bettered Mind you cutting the head down 2mm and using a quad ring seal goes along way