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Thread: Original/Diana Model 66

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Weymouth
    Posts
    490

    Original/Diana Model 66

    Hello.
    Our club has an Original/Diana Model 66 and it's power is way down. In fact the pellets getting stuck inside the barrel.
    We're assuming it's the original seals which have now perished.

    Does any one have a link to disassembly instructions or have any general advice for taking this particular mechanism apart? I've found an exploded diagram which will help but that's all so far
    Last edited by Deltawing; 02-10-2022 at 01:26 PM.
    S&W M&P 1522 - Anschutz 1416 - Anschutz 1761 - Beretta Silver Pidgeon III - Yildiz SPE-ME 12G - ATA SP Black 12G - FWB800 - FX DRS - HW110K - HW100 - Steyr Pro-X - Steyr LG1 - Walther LGM-2

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Cambridge UK
    Posts
    7,073
    I have sent some info by e mail ... hope it arrives OK.
    You should also be able to find the user manual for the 66 or 65 via a google search. If I remember correctly, this contains detailed info of a service, spring and seals replacement etc. From what I remember, getting the springs back in is a bit of a fiddle and a spring compressor is a great help in holding everything.
    Also, from memory, Knibbs or Chambers were sources for the springs and seals although I think they can also appear via fleabay..
    Cheers, Phil

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Weymouth
    Posts
    490

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    I have sent some info by e mail ... hope it arrives OK.
    You should also be able to find the user manual for the 66 or 65 via a google search. If I remember correctly, this contains detailed info of a service, spring and seals replacement etc. From what I remember, getting the springs back in is a bit of a fiddle and a spring compressor is a great help in holding everything.
    Also, from memory, Knibbs or Chambers were sources for the springs and seals although I think they can also appear via fleabay..
    Cheers, Phil
    Thank you Phil! Seen the email very much appreciated.
    S&W M&P 1522 - Anschutz 1416 - Anschutz 1761 - Beretta Silver Pidgeon III - Yildiz SPE-ME 12G - ATA SP Black 12G - FWB800 - FX DRS - HW110K - HW100 - Steyr Pro-X - Steyr LG1 - Walther LGM-2

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Ashby-de-la-Zouch
    Posts
    939
    The service manual will cover most things, but a couple of extras:
    - when removing the timing gears, wrap something around the covers (small piece of old inner tube for example) before undoing them. The knurling on them is very easily damaged
    - remember to remove the small grub screw on the threaded back block, before trying to remove the back block itself.
    - I would always remove the gear covers before the back block for a visual check of the gears. If they are ok, put the covers back on and continue as per the service manual. The gears hold the pistons and spring preload. So if they are broken, the backblock will be holding the pre-load, which it's not designed to do! If the gears are all OK, you can remove the back cover, and the pistons and springs will remain inside the action. (probably the only springer that behaves like this?)

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