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Thread: Advice wanted on how to recognise reproduction Webley Air Pistol boxes

  1. #1
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    Advice wanted on how to recognise reproduction Webley Air Pistol boxes

    A couple of months ago I brought two post war boxed Webley Air Pistols in vgc (a Senior and a Junior) for a tidy sum. Since then I have wondered on the odd occasion as to whether or not the boxes are genuinely original items. I don't know how to tell either way myself, but wondered if any of the BBS readership could offer any suggestions as to how to tell "real from repro", and If so, I'd appreciate any knowledgeable opinions on the matter.

    Thanks, Vic Thompson.

  2. #2
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    Hello Vic

    Please don't take this the wrong way , but ...

    If the cardboard box looks too good then its a reproduction in my opinion.

    As an example - a few years back I bought a boxed Webley Target.
    Fantastic condition pistol with a really near mint box.
    It was expensive.
    But there is no way the box could have been passed off as a mint box.
    You just know.

    No insult or disrespect intended

    Sam

  3. #3
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    Hi Vic,

    Check the corners inside and out. If they are stiff, chances are the box is a repro. The bases are usually not as well made as the lids and again are just too stiff and don't look 'right'.

    My worry is after several years of aging, these repro boxes may be passed off as genuine - I'm no fan of them.

    John
    Currently looking for Baikal Makarov pistols with the following prefixes to the serial number: 98, T01, T09, T21, T22
    Prefer boxed or cased but will consider loose examples too.

  4. #4
    ccdjg is online now Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    If the boxes you refer to are pre-1950, the ultraviolet test is about the best non-destructive test there is.

    Also, fake labels will be either ink jet printed or laser printed. You can tell an ink jet print if the colours run when moistened with hot water. An ink jet printing can be partly lifted off by applying a thin sheet of paper and a hot iron to it. True vintage labels will do neither.

  5. #5
    micky2 is offline The collector formerly known as micky
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josie & John View Post
    Hi Vic,

    Check the corners inside and out. If they are stiff, chances are the box is a repro. The bases are usually not as well made as the lids and again are just too stiff and don't look 'right'.

    My worry is after several years of aging, these repro boxes may be passed off as genuine - I'm no fan of them.

    John
    Hi John, that's the same reason that l don't like pellet or pistol repro boxes. as l am sure that will happen in the future.

  6. #6
    micky2 is offline The collector formerly known as micky
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccdjg View Post
    If the boxes you refer to are pre-1950, the ultraviolet test is about the best non-destructive test there is.

    Also, fake labels will be either ink jet printed or laser printed. You can tell an ink jet print if the colours run when moistened with hot water. An ink jet printing can be partly lifted off by applying a thin sheet of paper and a hot iron to it. True vintage labels will do neither.
    Hi John, that is very good advice.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josie & John View Post
    Hi Vic,

    Check the corners inside and out. If they are stiff, chances are the box is a repro. The bases are usually not as well made as the lids and again are just too stiff and don't look 'right'.

    My worry is after several years of aging, these repro boxes may be passed off as genuine - I'm no fan of them.

    John
    They do need a discreet but obvious flaw in them don’t they? I’m sure it wouldn’t kill the look if they had a little date or something printed unobtrusively.
    Morally flawed

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Cornelius View Post
    They do need a discreet but obvious flaw in them don’t they? I’m sure it wouldn’t kill the look if they had a little date or something printed unobtrusively.
    Absolutely. I have a very well reproduced BSA brochure in my collection that is almost impossible to tell from an original other than a very discreet date and printing code in a bottom corner. I'm pleased whoever reproduced it was honest about it.

    A small code on a corner would be ideal if someone wants to reproduce ephemera and others want to buy it as that way, no-one is intentionally fooled.

    John
    Currently looking for Baikal Makarov pistols with the following prefixes to the serial number: 98, T01, T09, T21, T22
    Prefer boxed or cased but will consider loose examples too.

  9. #9
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    I can see the reason for having something printed on the boxes to distinguish originals from modern ones. It seems reasonable to me, but what about other items such as modern made replacement parts that have been fitted to a rifle or pistol? Modern made trigger guards, sights etc., should these be marked up in some way to avoid confusion or deception?
    Last edited by trajectory; 09-08-2022 at 10:11 AM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by trajectory View Post
    I can see the reason for having something printed on the boxes to distinguish originals from modern ones. It seems reasonable to me, but what about other items such as modern made replacement parts that have been fitted to a rifle or pistol? Modern made trigger guards, sights etc., should these be marked up in some way to avoid confusion or deception?
    Mmm. Triggers broom aside, an original gun with a replacement trigger guard is still an original gun in my view, albeit less desirable than one that is wholly original. But you have to be practical: I bought a webley service without an interceptor sear, which I then fitted. The part is too small to be marked in any way.

    A reproduction service .25 barrel ought to be marked though, imho. The possibility of deception and asking a higher price than the gun is worth is far greater.
    Morally flawed

  11. #11
    micky2 is offline The collector formerly known as micky
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    It always amazes me how much restored motorbikes and cars go for.

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