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Thread: Field target scopes

  1. #1
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    Field target scopes

    Having just got back into the wonderful world of air rifles i am discovering just how much i have missed in the last 30 yrs or so!!
    One thing that has moved forward is the quality and quantity of scopes available!
    What is your favourite for Field Target work?
    How did you make the decision?

  2. #2
    JerryD is offline Will only use cherry lipbalm
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    Now that's a question with a verrrrrrrry long answer!!

    For FT, ability to range consistently is key, together with reliable and repeatable dialling. Execept for a few scopes, 40x minimum is needed as the need to resolve with 2 yds at 55yds is needed. Then weight, tube size and accessories come into play. Don't get caught up too much in tube size, as lens quality will have an impact. Also, whether the focus fades in out or snaps in can bw a big factor, depending on what you prefer.

    Popular scopes in royghly ascending cost
    The "big nikko""10-50*60, but it's just been discontinued. Plenty 2nd hand though. Probably won more ft comps than any other.
    The Falcon X50 is a comparable alternative, and a bit lighter as well
    Sightron SIII next, very similar to Falcon X50
    Delta Stryker 5-50*56, built like a tank but a solid performer if you can deal with the very fine reticle
    Vortex Eagle next, but not very many being used

    Then you're into the silly money territory of the Khales 1050i, March Highmaster and Schmidt&Bender PMII, all north of £2500ish.

    Best bet: get to local FT club and see what folk are using. Look through a few, try the parallax/focus to see how snappy they are and which you prefer. There are plenty of 2nd hand out there, but it's still a big outlay.

    All scopes take time to learn as well: it's not a case of bolting it on and away you go. They all have their foibles, particualrly in respect of how they deal with changes in temperature. All to be learnt!!!
    Jerry

  3. #3
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    Top advice from Jerry.
    Get along to a decent FT club and have a peek through a few different models. You’re going to be parting with the bare minimum of £500 on the secondhand market (possibly a bit less if you take a wild punt on a Tasco Custom Shop, or the less magnification spec Bushnell 8-32) so take your time in deciding.
    Put on heading 270, assume attack formation

  4. #4
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    Some good advice already, chance is you wont get it right first time.
    Personelly I hate the "super big scopes", lots of weight, bulk and generally poorer glass.
    I like a crystal clear picture, so i cant get away with "milk bottle lenses". With practice a quality 32x with good glass and eyes is just as good at ranging.
    Have used Leopold EFR powered up to 40x, Leopold Bench Rest Fixed 35x etc, but my favourites are the 32x, Burris and Bausch & Lomb.
    The bausch has outstanding clarity, but as mentioned earlier the Bushnell Elite 4200 8-32x is a very good scope.
    The scope choice is a massive part of the rig, not just a range finder, it can aid or disrupt balance of the rifle, i know its only a few shots but you have to kneel and stand to shoot too.
    Then there are the 20x sillies to shoot which is all standing, great fun they are.
    You watch people giving up half way through or just dont bother because their rig is 20lbs.
    Lots to consider, defo buy a used unit, but most of all have fun and enjoy the learning curve.
    VAYA CON DIOS

  5. #5
    JerryD is offline Will only use cherry lipbalm
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsxrman View Post
    Some good advice already, chance is you wont get it right first time.
    Personelly I hate the "super big scopes", lots of weight, bulk and generally poorer glass.
    I like a crystal clear picture, so i cant get away with "milk bottle lenses". With practice a quality 32x with good glass and eyes is just as good at ranging.
    Have used Leopold EFR powered up to 40x, Leopold Bench Rest Fixed 35x etc, but my favourites are the 32x, Burris and Bausch & Lomb.
    The bausch has outstanding clarity, but as mentioned earlier the Bushnell Elite 4200 8-32x is a very good scope.
    The scope choice is a massive part of the rig, not just a range finder, it can aid or disrupt balance of the rifle, i know its only a few shots but you have to kneel and stand to shoot too.
    Then there are the 20x sillies to shoot which is all standing, great fun they are.
    You watch people giving up half way through or just dont bother because their rig is 20lbs.
    Lots to consider, defo buy a used unit, but most of all have fun and enjoy the learning curve.
    Agree on the Bushy - that's why I have 2! Brilliant springer scope.

    One of the nicest opticswise is my Leupy 20-50*50, but it's a bit too elastic with temperature. I got a Delta Stryker as that's a lot more reliable with temperature, but it does have a very fine reticle. The 10MOA per full turret turn means never being a turn out though!
    Jerry

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryD View Post
    Agree on the Bushy - that's why I have 2! Brilliant springer scope.

    One of the nicest opticswise is my Leupy 20-50*50, but it's a bit too elastic with temperature. I got a Delta Stryker as that's a lot more reliable with temperature, but it does have a very fine reticle. The 10MOA per full turret turn means never being a turn out though!
    Stryker sounds good, is the glass as clear as the Leo?
    I wouldnt "down grade" the Bushy to a springer scope, they good full stop, 2-3m of ranging is accurate enough at long range with a 40mm target!
    I used to have a sticky on fish tank thermometer on the rifle with the EFR Leo, but again its what you get used to and you adapt to different situations.
    I use a Rapid 17FT for HFT and FT when I fancy a change with the B&L mounted, it never moves, zero never alters at all.
    Never have to re zero before a shoot like a lot of others, i just have a few practice shots, for me, practice hold breathing timing etc.
    VAYA CON DIOS

  7. #7
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    An FT scope is a very individual matter. There are lots of different types of scopes which can do the job. A key question is whether you'd be happy to shoot on a fixed high magnification. These fixed scopes tend to be benchrest scopes and are light, generally have fine rets, examples include the Leupold comp series sidewheels, Weaver T36 etc. If you need a zoom scope then there are various front focus options and lots of different sidewheel scopes, though these tend to be heavy, maybe 3-400g heavier than a comp series. I seem to be able to get along with just about any scope for rangefinding in normal conditions. I've got a number of FT scopes at the moment. leupold comp series, Falcon X50, Deben 10-50 x 56, Custom Shop Tasco, Old front focus Tascos and Leupolds, Leupold 20-50 x 50. I've had 32x Leupold Mk4, Burris 8-32 x 44, B&L 36 x 40, lots of big nikkos and big BSAs. I had a Schmidt and Bender 10-50 x 50 on loan for a while. I'm totally unconcerned by reticules, I only look at the centre.

    These scopes can all do the job. From a point of view of pure function the 22 year old Deben 10-50 x 56 is probably the most effective FT scope I've used. In the recent hot weather I've had all of these various scopes baking on decking that I can't walk on barefoot. I also have an object at a known 50 yards. The Deben is the only scope which doesn't range long on this object in this extreme heat, 50 still reads as 50, I have 2 of them and they are both the same. A friend of mine recently went to the FT comp in Italy, testing has shown that his mk3 Big Nikko reads about 10 yards long in this type of extreme heat, his Deben doesn't.

    But I'm virtually alone in this opinion. The optics are not great on the 40 mag I range on, but on 20x where I shoot the picture is fine. Using these scopes I have gone years without having a sitting shot land outside the central 1cm horizontal of the killzone. I won the 2018 essex 50 using my second Deben which cost me 150 quid on a popular auction website, I missed the first shot, a stander, and got the rest for 49 ex 50. There is nothing to learn about these scopes aside from them reading a little short in extreme cold. The only other sidewheel scope in the same ballpark for stability is the mk1/2 big Nikko/big BSA. The Falcon X50 seems pretty robust in terms of temp stability too, only reading 1 or 2 yards long when stupidly hot, hotter than it would ever get if you used a gun bag between lanes in the UK. Mates tell me that the popular March scopes seem to read 2 yards short in extreme heat, but I have no personal experience of them.
    Best Regards

    Simon

    I've got some slug guns.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by simona View Post
    An FT scope is a very individual matter. There are lots of different types of scopes which can do the job. A key question is whether you'd be happy to shoot on a fixed high magnification. These fixed scopes tend to be benchrest scopes and are light, generally have fine rets, examples include the Leupold comp series sidewheels, Weaver T36 etc. If you need a zoom scope then there are various front focus options and lots of different sidewheel scopes, though these tend to be heavy, maybe 3-400g heavier than a comp series. I seem to be able to get along with just about any scope for rangefinding in normal conditions. I've got a number of FT scopes at the moment. leupold comp series, Falcon X50, Deben 10-50 x 56, Custom Shop Tasco, Old front focus Tascos and Leupolds, Leupold 20-50 x 50. I've had 32x Leupold Mk4, Burris 8-32 x 44, B&L 36 x 40, lots of big nikkos and big BSAs. I had a Schmidt and Bender 10-50 x 50 on loan for a while. I'm totally unconcerned by reticules, I only look at the centre.

    These scopes can all do the job. From a point of view of pure function the 22 year old Deben 10-50 x 56 is probably the most effective FT scope I've used. In the recent hot weather I've had all of these various scopes baking on decking that I can't walk on barefoot. I also have an object at a known 50 yards. The Deben is the only scope which doesn't range long on this object in this extreme heat, 50 still reads as 50, I have 2 of them and they are both the same. A friend of mine recently went to the FT comp in Italy, testing has shown that his mk3 Big Nikko reads about 10 yards long in this type of extreme heat, his Deben doesn't.

    But I'm virtually alone in this opinion. The optics are not great on the 40 mag I range on, but on 20x where I shoot the picture is fine. Using these scopes I have gone years without having a sitting shot land outside the central 1cm horizontal of the killzone. I won the 2018 essex 50 using my second Deben which cost me 150 quid on a popular auction website, I missed the first shot, a stander, and got the rest for 49 ex 50. There is nothing to learn about these scopes aside from them reading a little short in extreme cold. The only other sidewheel scope in the same ballpark for stability is the mk1/2 big Nikko/big BSA. The Falcon X50 seems pretty robust in terms of temp stability too, only reading 1 or 2 yards long when stupidly hot, hotter than it would ever get if you used a gun bag between lanes in the UK. Mates tell me that the popular March scopes seem to read 2 yards short in extreme heat, but I have no personal experience of them.
    This is a good, and proves the point that I have made in lots of posts in that "Whats the best" isnt really a question that can be answered. You just need to find what works well for you. Not follow the fashion. Just because Simon wins the Essex invitational doesnt make the Deben the best, it makes Simon the best on that day. I scored the same a few years back at Redfearns "NEFTA" big 50, where the reigning World and European Champs came in second and third to a Rapid 17 and a 20x leo EFR. What makes a good a really good HFT/FT rig is the shooter. Practice practice practice. Redfearns again, the reg went on my Ripley and i missed the first 4 targets so was walking off course. Mr Dave Baines offered to lend me his rifle Daystate MK3 with BSA barrel and 40x Leo. I shot 25 ex 26 of the remaining targets. RIP sir. It takes time to learn the craft, I would often shoot a 2x boxes of premiers a month. Most of all enjoy your shooting, at what ever level you compete at. A lot of modern kit is capable, but remember "you" are the weakest link most of the time.
    VAYA CON DIOS

  9. #9
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    It takes a very fine shot to win any highly competitive shooting competition. Usually there are a good few competitors at the level of having everything in sync that could bring off the win. The best minimise the luck factor by being that good luck has little to play; just skill and the kit to show it.

    It does require the kit to be competitive, but a lot of the kit combinations are. The process of finding out what kit works for you is part of the path to raise to a level of competitiveness. Frankly its graft and each stage on the path helps raise the performance, so time working it all out isn't wasted. Some trial and error and investment is required, and seeing what works for others is just an aid, but not the whole solution.

    Raw talent is not enough, just as best kit isn't either. Practice, the path, and graft might get you near. More is about the individual.

    Anyhow, best to get shooting and then work out what you need more of. Pretty basic kit will get you a long way to knowing what more you need and what part to work on.
    I just find it interesting that a shooting discipline has been designed that demands archaic range finding. Once a scope was considered progress over iron sights. Now laser rangefinders are denied. Why? (I know why.)
    I do love the progress in all the kit that has been done over the years. Long should it continue. In all shooting sports it's the human bit that matters, so it should be kept fun. Part of the fun is the challenge, so best to keep it challenging. Or we could just fire missiles remotely

  10. #10
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    Jesim1 is offline Likes to wear driving gloves in the bedroom
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryD View Post
    Now that's a question with a verrrrrrrry long answer!!

    For FT, ability to range consistently is key, together with reliable and repeatable dialling. Execept for a few scopes, 40x minimum is needed as the need to resolve with 2 yds at 55yds is needed. Then weight, tube size and accessories come into play. Don't get caught up too much in tube size, as lens quality will have an impact. Also, whether the focus fades in out or snaps in can bw a big factor, depending on what you prefer.

    Popular scopes in royghly ascending cost
    The "big nikko""10-50*60, but it's just been discontinued. Plenty 2nd hand though. Probably won more ft comps than any other.
    The Falcon X50 is a comparable alternative, and a bit lighter as well
    Sightron SIII next, very similar to Falcon X50
    Delta Stryker 5-50*56, built like a tank but a solid performer if you can deal with the very fine reticle
    Vortex Eagle next, but not very many being used

    Then you're into the silly money territory of the Khales 1050i, March Highmaster and Schmidt&Bender PMII, all north of £2500ish.

    Best bet: get to local FT club and see what folk are using. Look through a few, try the parallax/focus to see how snappy they are and which you prefer. There are plenty of 2nd hand out there, but it's still a big outlay.

    All scopes take time to learn as well: it's not a case of bolting it on and away you go. They all have their foibles, particualrly in respect of how they deal with changes in temperature. All to be learnt!!!
    Jerry has pretty much nailed it and I'd have to agree with everything he said, to start with a Big Nikko is probably a very sensible way to go, you can get them for around £450/500 and will get your money back when you upgrade if you stick it in the future and want to experiment with higher ticket items.
    Making a mockery of growing old gracefully since I retired

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