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Thread: Tatty Lincoln Jeffries

  1. #1
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    Tatty Lincoln Jeffries

    Hello all I've spent even more money I don't have on a Lincoln Jeffries bought (apart from photos) unseen at auction . It's been possibly stripped and certainly overpainted now flaking off. As I'm unsure of exactly which model I cannot ask for a valuation but I do want to ask whether it would be a good candidate for refinishing depending on how much rebluing costs. I would like to refinish the stock myself having done what appears to me to be a good job on my Mk1 Airsporter.

    I imagine none get re blued due to dropping value but this poor girl is not looking her best right now. I paid £113 including fees it comes with a vintage spotting scope, and due to my poor IT skills can't include a photo

  2. #2
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    Hi there.

    Just looking at the picture of it at the auction site.

    I think you did ok with your purchase price.

    I am guessing it will be around the £100 mark to have it re-blued properly by someone like Paul Chell.

    I would be tempted to remove the paint and take it back to the metal and leave it like that......

    I have started to do one like this and it looks really good.

    Have you got the serial number for it to determine its place on the BSA timeline

  3. #3
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    I say I'm looking at it.......

    Is it this one?

    https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/a...0f4#lotDetails

  4. #4
    edbear2 Guest
    That's a 1920's /30's BSA standard actually to be a pedant, but often folks call any era Prewar (both wars) BSA's "Lincolns" whice actually is a nice touch to the inventor I suppose.

    ATB, Ed

  5. #5
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    I say I'm looking at it.......

    Is it this one?

    https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/a...0f4#lotDetails





    Yes Er Erm Er have I overpaid. No serial number yet I hope to pick it up on Friday
    Last edited by Dornfelderliebe; 16-11-2022 at 05:06 PM.

  6. #6
    micky2 is offline The collector formerly known as micky
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post
    I say I'm looking at it.......

    Is it this one?

    https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/a...0f4#lotDetails





    Yes Er Erm Er have I overpaid. No serial number yet I hope to pick it up on Friday
    Hi l don't think so with the scope as well. and if it is the rifle that they say it is who it belonged to. no way of proving that. although they do show a photo with it. that might help. l would just take the paint off and leave it's history that is underneath. and just enjoy shooting it.

  7. #7
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    If that was mine and a keeper, I would get the paint off with acetate. You might be lucky and its even brown underneath, but if it was sanded before it was painted, as I see it has been primed, so probably there will be bright metal in places under the paint. Wirewool the metalwork smooth, so any active rust is sealed. Then don't oil it and handle it often, rubbing off any active rust with your hands. The cylinders are decent quality steel and in a few years you will see an even brown patina begin to develop and it will look honest and aged. Home rebluing kits over pitting never looks good, you tend to loose the sharp edges and it will rust out of the pits in time. Same for browning solutions.
    There are ways of artifically creating patina by using solutions of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide etc, but I have never tried it. I have an Improved Model D, that if you look carefully has obviously been polished many, many years ago and has a beautiful even patina.
    That was a good buy, especially with the provenance. Sure if you put it in a perspex box the pub would buy it off you as a display item if its still open, but it would be a shame for it not to get used.
    Last edited by silva; 16-11-2022 at 07:09 PM.
    "helplessly they stare at his tracks......."

  8. #8
    edbear2 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by silva View Post
    If that was mine and a keeper, I would get the paint off with acetate. You might be lucky and its even brown underneath, but if it was sanded before it was painted, as I see it has been primed, so probably there will be bright metal in places under the paint. Wirewool the metalwork smooth, so any active rust is sealed. Then don't oil it and handle it often, rubbing off any active rust with your hands. The cylinders are decent quality steel and in a few years you will see an even brown patina begin to develop and it will look honest and aged. Home rebluing kits over pitting never looks good, you tend to loose the sharp edges and it will rust out of the pits in time. Same for browning solutions.
    There are ways of artifically creating patina by using solutions of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide etc, but I have never tried it. I have an Improved Model D, that if you look carefully has obviously been polished many, many years ago and has a beautiful even patina.
    That was a good buy, especially with the provenance. Sure if you put it in a perspex box the pub would buy it off you as a display item if its still open, but it would be a shame for it not to get used.
    Hi Mate,

    Birchwood casey "plum brown" browning solution gives a good approximation of patina, enough to fool several BSA experts at least

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

    I still am tripping over a repaired sporting action here as well, don't forget about it...

    ATB, ED
    Last edited by edbear2; 17-11-2022 at 04:34 PM.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Gents I'm going to collect it on Friday. Update to follow.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by edbear2 View Post
    Hi Mate,

    Birchwood casey "plum brown" browning solution gives a good approximation of patina, enough to fool several BSA experts at least

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

    I still am tripping over a repaired sporting action hese as well, don't forget about it...

    ATB, ED
    Very nice

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by edbear2 View Post
    Hi Mate,

    Birchwood casey "plum brown" browning solution gives a good approximation of patina, enough to fool several BSA experts at least

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

    I still am tripping over a repaired sporting action here as well, don't forget about it...

    ATB, ED
    A beauty, looks great. With high quality prep and application like that browning solution works very well. That will cause some head scratching in years to come
    "helplessly they stare at his tracks......."

  12. #12
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    home now

    Gents I got the rifle back and all went swimmingly until I tried to put up a photo of the serial number. You have no idea how bad I am with computers and how much I hate them. I'm unable to upload the picture concerned.
    Any way tested it back home slight recoil and felt heavier to cock than I assumed, tested it over the chrono with .177 superdomes and came out about 620 fps 7.2 ish Fpe. All good
    I have tried to read the serial number but it seems slightly worn after cleaning carefully it looks like CS 14080. The letters show up well but the last number could be a 9
    Does this make sense to you?
    As for the paint it looks like there is a sliver layer beneath the black as I used my finger nail to tease off a few bits and the brown was beneath
    Can you make an educated guess on which model it is and which year is was made.
    I asked the auctioneer who was selling it and it was Albert Gunn's son ,now in his 70's. so I'm hoping it's in good knick.
    One other thing would you try to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston seal by pouring into the open transfer port, closing again and cocking to suck it in?

    Thanks
    Thomas

  13. #13
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    Looks like you have a BSA Club Standard No.1 bore gun from 1922. It should be 451/2 long (they varied a little), and your gun is an early one. BSA came out with the design as it gave more weight and power that the Light or ladies model, and was more suitable for club shooting . It was completely cutting edge in its day, and would have equipped the team to win many a competition. You will see that it has a three hole trigger block, showing that it has internal trigger adjustment.

    In my opinion, one of the best models of pre-WW2 BSA air rifles. Powerful and flat shooting.

    Lakey

  14. #14
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    Thank you Lakey I see the three holes now. Next to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston washer.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post
    Thank you Lakey I see the three holes now. Next to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston washer.
    Really you need to do a full strip down of the gun in my opinion. Just putting neatsfoot into the tap wont do too much good IMHO. Far better to dismantle and check the condition of the piston washer and spring. Also probably best to clean the barrel whilst the gun is apart.

    Lakey

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