Tatty Lincoln Jeffries

[Dornfelderliebe]

Gents I got the rifle back and all went swimmingly until I tried to put up a photo of the serial number. You have no idea how bad I am with computers and how much I hate them. I'm unable to upload the picture concerned.
Any way tested it back home slight recoil and felt heavier to cock than I assumed, tested it over the chrono with .177 superdomes and came out about 620 fps 7.2 ish Fpe. All good
I have tried to read the serial number but it seems slightly worn after cleaning carefully it looks like CS 14080. The letters show up well but the last number could be a 9
Does this make sense to you?
As for the paint it looks like there is a sliver layer beneath the black as I used my finger nail to tease off a few bits and the brown was beneath
Can you make an educated guess on which model it is and which year is was made.
I asked the auctioneer who was selling it and it was Albert Gunn's son ,now in his 70's. so I'm hoping it's in good knick.
One other thing would you try to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston seal by pouring into the open transfer port, closing again and cocking to suck it in?

Thanks
Thomas

[Lakey]

Looks like you have a BSA Club Standard No.1 bore gun from 1922. It should be 451/2 long (they varied a little), and your gun is an early one. BSA came out with the design as it gave more weight and power that the Light or ladies model, and was more suitable for club shooting . It was completely cutting edge in its day, and would have equipped the team to win many a competition. You will see that it has a three hole trigger block, showing that it has internal trigger adjustment.

In my opinion, one of the best models of pre-WW2 BSA air rifles. Powerful and flat shooting.

Lakey

[Dornfelderliebe]

Thank you Lakey I see the three holes now. Next to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston washer.

[Lakey]

Thank you Lakey I see the three holes now. Next to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston washer.

Really you need to do a full strip down of the gun in my opinion. Just putting neatsfoot into the tap wont do too much good IMHO. Far better to dismantle and check the condition of the piston washer and spring. Also probably best to clean the barrel whilst the gun is apart.

Lakey

[Dornfelderliebe]

Ooh I'm not feeling that brave but it will have to be done. Is there a guide to strip down? I never noticed one on the idiots guide but wasn't looking before.

[Lakey]

Plenty of tips and info here

https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery....l-tips-faqs-2/


Lakey

[Dornfelderliebe]

Thankyou Lakey I'll log off and check through by the way I have tentatively scrapped off a bit more paint with my fingernail to avoid damage, the black comes off the silver and the silver can be teased off the brown metal suggesting it is not primer. Fingers crossed

[Dornfelderliebe]

Thanks Lakey for your advice I have now stripped out the piston. The outer washer seemed ok but the inner washer and screw are Knackered Knibbs have an assembly for £15 which I shall now order.
The cocking link axis bolt is none standard and allows play unfortunately Knibbs only have one of two alternatives one has a curved bit machined from the threaded end and the other which is out of stock is hollow to allow peening over.
Any advice which to buy.
I seem to be lucky with the bluing. I rubbed it down with cloth and acetone and both layers of paint came off, both the black on top and the silver below which I thought was primer.
Most of the bluing is intact with a relatively smooth surface. It's just dark.
Once or twice it failed to cock and I hoping that the loose axis pin is to blame unless you collectors know better.
ATB
Dornfelderlieber