Tatty Lincoln Jeffries

[micky2]

I say I'm looking at it.......

Is it this one?

https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/a...0f4#lotDetails





Yes Er Erm Er have I overpaid. No serial number yet I hope to pick it up on Friday

Hi l don't think so with the scope as well. and if it is the rifle that they say it is who it belonged to. no way of proving that. although they do show a photo with it. that might help. l would just take the paint off and leave it's history that is underneath. and just enjoy shooting it.

[silva]

If that was mine and a keeper, I would get the paint off with acetate. You might be lucky and its even brown underneath, but if it was sanded before it was painted, as I see it has been primed, so probably there will be bright metal in places under the paint. Wirewool the metalwork smooth, so any active rust is sealed. Then don't oil it and handle it often, rubbing off any active rust with your hands. The cylinders are decent quality steel and in a few years you will see an even brown patina begin to develop and it will look honest and aged. Home rebluing kits over pitting never looks good, you tend to loose the sharp edges and it will rust out of the pits in time. Same for browning solutions.
There are ways of artifically creating patina by using solutions of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide etc, but I have never tried it. I have an Improved Model D, that if you look carefully has obviously been polished many, many years ago and has a beautiful even patina.
That was a good buy, especially with the provenance. Sure if you put it in a perspex box the pub would buy it off you as a display item if its still open, but it would be a shame for it not to get used.

[edbear2]

If that was mine and a keeper, I would get the paint off with acetate. You might be lucky and its even brown underneath, but if it was sanded before it was painted, as I see it has been primed, so probably there will be bright metal in places under the paint. Wirewool the metalwork smooth, so any active rust is sealed. Then don't oil it and handle it often, rubbing off any active rust with your hands. The cylinders are decent quality steel and in a few years you will see an even brown patina begin to develop and it will look honest and aged. Home rebluing kits over pitting never looks good, you tend to loose the sharp edges and it will rust out of the pits in time. Same for browning solutions.
There are ways of artifically creating patina by using solutions of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide etc, but I have never tried it. I have an Improved Model D, that if you look carefully has obviously been polished many, many years ago and has a beautiful even patina.
That was a good buy, especially with the provenance. Sure if you put it in a perspex box the pub would buy it off you as a display item if its still open, but it would be a shame for it not to get used.

Hi Mate,

Birchwood casey "plum brown" browning solution gives a good approximation of patina, enough to fool several BSA experts at least

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

I still am tripping over a repaired sporting action here as well, don't forget about it...

ATB, ED

[Dornfelderliebe]

Thanks Gents I'm going to collect it on Friday. Update to follow.

[Dornfelderliebe]

Hi Mate,

Birchwood casey "plum brown" browning solution gives a good approximation of patina, enough to fool several BSA experts at least

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

I still am tripping over a repaired sporting action hese as well, don't forget about it...

ATB, ED

Very nice

[silva]

Hi Mate,

Birchwood casey "plum brown" browning solution gives a good approximation of patina, enough to fool several BSA experts at least

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/312284...7616789686347/

I still am tripping over a repaired sporting action here as well, don't forget about it...

ATB, ED

A beauty, looks great. With high quality prep and application like that browning solution works very well. That will cause some head scratching in years to come

[Dornfelderliebe]

Gents I got the rifle back and all went swimmingly until I tried to put up a photo of the serial number. You have no idea how bad I am with computers and how much I hate them. I'm unable to upload the picture concerned.
Any way tested it back home slight recoil and felt heavier to cock than I assumed, tested it over the chrono with .177 superdomes and came out about 620 fps 7.2 ish Fpe. All good
I have tried to read the serial number but it seems slightly worn after cleaning carefully it looks like CS 14080. The letters show up well but the last number could be a 9
Does this make sense to you?
As for the paint it looks like there is a sliver layer beneath the black as I used my finger nail to tease off a few bits and the brown was beneath
Can you make an educated guess on which model it is and which year is was made.
I asked the auctioneer who was selling it and it was Albert Gunn's son ,now in his 70's. so I'm hoping it's in good knick.
One other thing would you try to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston seal by pouring into the open transfer port, closing again and cocking to suck it in?

Thanks
Thomas

[Lakey]

Looks like you have a BSA Club Standard No.1 bore gun from 1922. It should be 451/2 long (they varied a little), and your gun is an early one. BSA came out with the design as it gave more weight and power that the Light or ladies model, and was more suitable for club shooting . It was completely cutting edge in its day, and would have equipped the team to win many a competition. You will see that it has a three hole trigger block, showing that it has internal trigger adjustment.

In my opinion, one of the best models of pre-WW2 BSA air rifles. Powerful and flat shooting.

Lakey

[Dornfelderliebe]

Thank you Lakey I see the three holes now. Next to get some neatsfoot oil onto the piston washer.