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Thread: Cracked stocks

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
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    Gravesend
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    103

    Cracked stocks

    Evening all

    One for those who carry out repairs, how would you all do a repair on a cracked stock? I'm about to re do an old mercury stock and found its cracked across pistol grip

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    clacton
    Posts
    694
    Quote Originally Posted by Tallpaul84 View Post
    Evening all

    One for those who carry out repairs, how would you all do a repair on a cracked stock? I'm about to re do an old mercury stock and found its cracked across pistol grip
    just done a mercury stock myself,cracked,broken right across the pistol grip.unfortunately it had been repaired before so no invisible repair here.i drilled and used a threaded stud and araldite plus a couple of screws to stop any twist.second hand stocks on e--- seem to work out at 50-60 quid.p.s. stud and screws can't be seen.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    1,655
    I'm no expert on stock repairs but I've had good results repairing them.
    I started by cleaning out the crack with acetone or alcohol to remove any oils. Then a blast of compressed air in to make sure it's clean and dry. Getting lots of clamps ready and setting up prior to gluing is key. The tighter you get that crack closed the less visible it will be when the glue has dried. I used a 2 part marine glue which should fair better against moisture.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Runcorn right by the bridge
    Posts
    7,568
    Mercury stocks are awkward because the action bolt goes through the pistol grip ! I would drill the hole bigger and fit a tube preferably a top hat shape so the stock bolt actually strengthens the joint

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    cambridge
    Posts
    908
    Now there's a question. It would depend on what the stock is made of, wood or synthetic, also where the crack is & if it's the first time it's been repaired as well as if it closes well & if any material is missing or separate.

    Dry runs with clamping methods are a good idea before you introduce any adhesive. Sometimes f or g clamps can slip or mark so I've found webbing tourniquets can be very good. Adhesive wise, two component epoxies, slow cure ones rather than fast ones, low ish viscosity without fillers if the closure is close as fillers will not allow a complete closure. Waterproof adhesives like cascamite or 2c waterproof adhesives for boat building or exterior use could be good. Cleanliness, remove all dust, debris oil grease etc.
    Don't rush things have a good look. Maybe it needs some mechanical reinforcemeat, pegs, dowels, screws that have their heads below the surface that can then be plugged.........but if you are lucky an adhesive might well be strong enough, but strength & durability are dependant on many factors, getting the adhesive into the crack & wetting out the surfaces is one part, correct mix ratio, thin bond line, correct cure time & temp. Immobility during cure correct surface preparation spring to mind. There are other things.......it's very doable in most case though.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    gateshead
    Posts
    24,215
    my mate done mine and done a good job on it

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    ECKINGTON PERSHORE
    Posts
    200

    Stock repair

    Over the years I have done many repairs to cracked stocks, it's not a difficult job.
    First the crack needs to be cleaned which may mean forcing it apart slightly to allow access to the surfaces that need cleaning and blowing out any detritus from inside. As to glue I have tried them all and found the best to be brown Gorilla glue as it finely foams up and fills all the interstices. Before the glue is applied the crack needs to be dampened with water to activate the glue when applied. This will start the activation and fine brown foam will exude from the crack even when it's been cramped up. Leave the foam until the glue has hardened enough to allow the surplus foam to be cut off with a craft knife blade flush with the surface. You will notice that the crack may now have disappeared as the glue dries brown and there may be no filling required. Job done!

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