A tarted up titan rifle

[T 20]

to fit the trigger Mick you hav to remove the two adjusters to get access th the fixing screws

Yes completely correct, Ped.

I did think of that, but that can be overcome by having the correct length grub screw in your toolbox.
In doing it that way you also wouldn't have to disturb the lock nuts too much on your adjuster bolts.


I've not had a chance to look this morning but I also wondered if hex head bolts instead of cap heads to hold the cage on could also be an option ?




All the best Mick

[--ped--]

the grub screw is a very good idea Mick

[--ped--]

the next batch of trigger frames i make i'm going to look at beefing up the area they crack across even more than the last ones

[T 20]

the grub screw is a very good idea Mick

My hex bolt idea wasn't too smarty though.

I found this out this afternoon when I dug out my box of three spare trigger cages for a squint at them but found out I've now got four --- the little buggers must be breeding.




All the best Mick

[--ped--]

handy to have spares though as a few are after them at present

[junglie]

I've just repaired the broken one that came with mine as a spare, the replacement made by Ped is exellent btw & with & the radius left at the angle where they crack stronger too. Easy to avoid damage by cocking the hammer while tightning the fixing bolts but that knowledge needs to be spread to prevent this happening more often.

[junglie]

By Junglie
"Easy to see how folk break the cage lug off when reassembling by not cocking it when tightning the screws evenly, which was a pita with only two hands at 3am....."

Unscrew the back cap and hammer spring adjuster so there is no tension on hammer spring. Pull hammer back as far as possible and then attach trigger block with no fear of breaking the lugs.

the threaded section under the cap on mine is fixed solid so can't do that, on my mpt it does adjust though.

[greenwayjames]

the threaded section under the cap on mine is fixed solid so can't do that, on my mpt it does adjust though.

Yes. The side grubscrew should never be tightened more than a very loose finger tight to avoid crushing the thread on the spring adjuster and jamming the lot up. Just enough to stop movement of the adjuster while its cap is being replaced. It sounds like thats what has happened to yours

[averageplinker]

A very handy thread as I have an FN19 with a target trigger to reseal someday.

[SCW22]

handy to have spares though as a few are after them at present

Ped

Do you make hem out of ally same as the original? ever tried a different material?

Steve

[--ped--]

Ped

Do you make hem out of ally same as the original? ever tried a different material?

Steve

i make them from billet ally the originals are made from a cast type ally of spurious quality
as to other materials steel or stainless would take much lomger to make and hammer my cutters as i have no coolant feeds on the machines now (they were 3 phase originally )
if installed correctly they don't break
i am looking at making repair clamps that will allow damaged blocks to be used or getting the lugs tig welded back on then re machined so at some point i'll be looking for old broken ones to try different ideas on