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Thread: 'Custom Annealing Cup' tool.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Newport, South Wales.
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    995

    'Custom Annealing Cup' tool.

    Has any one used this reloading/annealing tool?

    Basically the cup go's in to a cordless drill, then the case go's into the cup, as it revolves you heat the neck using a butane torch, of the case until it starts to show colour.

    Has any one tried this method of annealing cases, if yes? what results? how successful?
    6.5 55 SWEDE.223 HOWA VARMINT NIKON 8X32X50 -.22LR CZ STYLE-16" .17 HMR CZ AMERICAN-16" SIMMONS AETEC-12G BERETTA A.302,AYA NO 4,BAIKAL O&U

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    Watford
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    Just use a socket attached to a drill. I have tried it, but can't vouch for consistency.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Taunton
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    9,066
    I've used the method, but used a Lee 3-Jaw Chuck to hold the cases while the cordless drill/driver rotated them in the flame.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Exeter
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    34,025
    Same as aris, 'map' torch, cordless drill & a long reach socket with some blue roll in the bottom to get the case height right (Hornet cases),
    barely needed a second flashed through the flame.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Newport, South Wales.
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    995

    'Custom Annealing Cup' tool.

    Thanks for your replies.

    I don't seem to have any problems with 223 or 6.5 Grendel, but with my 6.5 Swede I do have a number of cases where the case has lost it's ductility.

    The 'Cup' I described is 20-00 but I had thought about a socket and I do have some 'long reach' sockets, so with some 'Blue tack' to get the right height, should be possible.
    I'll price a torch and gas and see when time permits what's possible and try to do some comparison tests.

    One thought after the very quick anneal are you quenching in oil or water? or just letting the case air cool?
    6.5 55 SWEDE.223 HOWA VARMINT NIKON 8X32X50 -.22LR CZ STYLE-16" .17 HMR CZ AMERICAN-16" SIMMONS AETEC-12G BERETTA A.302,AYA NO 4,BAIKAL O&U

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Watford
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    I don't use a deep socket, just a regular one with an adapter to stick it in a drill chuck. Works fine as long as you aim flame at shoulder.

    I don't quench. It does help to do it in a dark room, but again, consistency cannot be guaranteed with this method. You anneal until the flame goes yellow. If the brass goes red, you may have gone too far. Much depends how far the brass is from the flame, and where in the flame you place it as different pars are hotter than others,

    You don't need a fancy ass torch either. I use something similar to this

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lighter-Kit...dp/B0B82D2JWH/

    They use the aerosol can shaped gas cartridges.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/BUTANE-BOTT...dp/B00CX3L8IA/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Exeter
    Posts
    34,025
    If you're "annealing" to make the metal soft/malleable then you let it cool slowly & naturally.
    Quenching is to temper or harden at a set point.

    If you have to specifically buy a torch, I'd go butane rather than Map gas, as the butane is cooler & easier to control.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Watford
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    8,009
    Quenching has no purpose or effect on non ferrous metals like brass. It just means you have a further step to dry the cases completely.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Dornock
    Posts
    6
    I would think you will find it hard to be consistant with this stile and not get the benifit you want for the effort put in

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