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  1. #1
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    Custom Stock Oil

    I have just acquired a CS600 stock, what would be the best oil to protect it and maintain?

    Many thanks.

  2. #2
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    Danish oil, It will look stuinning once the coats start to build.
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  3. #3
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    I've used "Ccl" or "trade secrets" oils with good results

  4. #4
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    If you want Danish Oil - try your local Screwfix.

    Get the smallest size, as it goes a long way or if you want to treat your wooden garden furniture then grab a larger tin.

  5. #5
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    I vaguely remember from years ago that custom stock trueoiled their stocks. I rubbed walnut oil onto my CS stock and made a sticky mess as it didn't soak in.I might be wrong about this, but someone more knowledgeable might be able to confirm either way.

  6. #6
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    I used Walnut oil on a stock earlier this year and put coats on too quickly while the house was cool. It has tuned out ok now, as temperatures have warmed up.
    You probably need a really warm room to get best results. A job for summer perhaps.
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cozzamec View Post
    I've used "Ccl" or "trade secrets" oils with good results
    Get yourself a CCL stock finishing kit, I used to use boiled linseed oil on my stocks but it takes ages for it to properly soak in, I only use the CCL kit now, much quicker and the stock will be as smooth as a baby's bum afterwards.
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  8. #8
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    Walnut oil does not contain drying agents. Just like linseed oil it needs a week to dry between coats.
    Oil blended for finishing wood contain drying agents that allow a coat every 24 hours.

    When applying any oil, rub well into the wood then wipe off as much as possible.
    Repariere nicht, was nicht kaputtist.

  9. #9
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    I use Philips English Walnut Oil
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by maza View Post
    Danish oil, It will look stunning once the coats start to build.
    Don't use the Danish oil you get from B&Q etc. This is filled with hardeners and other crap. Once you use it it seals the wood
    and leaves a shiny-ish surface. Then once it's done you won't need to or can't oil it again.

    The Danish oil to use is like The English Walnut Oil but without the hardeners and crap that comes with it. I wish I hadn't used
    B&Q Oil on my ProSport as I am not keen on the finish.

    I bought a CS500 stock and used the proper oil but at the moment I can't remember what it's called. I will find out shortly what it
    is exactly called. I gave it a few coats as you with Walnut oil and it looks stunning.

    I went through a spell where I tried loads of different oils on Walnut stocks and to be honest my favourite is English Walnut oil.
    I also use CCL oil on them after I have used the English oil.

    Tru Oil is bloody hard work to get the perfect finish, and providing you like a very shiny stock. I did one on my HW100 and it does
    look good. I wouldn't do another with it.

    So from me I recommend English Walnut Oil.

    Just found the one I used on my CS500 stock:

    https://www.shirearchery.co.uk/shop/...ry/danish-oil/

    Ade
    Last edited by StellaArtois Sr; 12-06-2023 at 03:22 PM.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
    I have just acquired a CS600 stock, what would be the best oil to protect it and maintain?

    Many thanks.
    You will get many recommendations regarding stock oil but many of them are not really suitable for stock maintenance. The first thing you will need to establish is what the wood is finished with, if it's a varnish then it's another matter, oil will not penetrate the varnish and will leave a sticky mess if some of the available propriety oils are used. In this instance, a good beeswax polish is the answer.
    Should the wood be oil finished then an oil is the answer, as you are asking which oil to use it suggests you have little or no experience with oil finishing so ease of use is a consideration and that can only be satisfied with raw linseed oil preferably artists grade which has been refined rather than boiled. Raw LO that is not absorbed by the wood will not go gummy where others can if left on the surface. If a little colour is required, alkanet oil made from raw LO will provide a colour that will darken slightly with each coat.
    In 50 years of finishing wood of all types I only use natural oils and waxes as I have absolutely no faith in other products

  12. #12
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    Wood has been finished for thousands of years and hence there are many preparations for doing the job.

    Use what your happy with, if not sure practice on an off cut.
    Repariere nicht, was nicht kaputtist.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil54 View Post
    [B]Wood has been finished for thousands of years and hence there are many preparations for doing the job.
    [/B]
    Use what your happy with, if not sure practice on an off cut.
    So it has, but not with some of the crap posing as stock finish available today.

  14. #14
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    In case you don’t know, if using oils like linseed, the rags can self-ignite if left balled up. Either douse in water and bin when you’re done or spread out flat to dry.
    It's all forgotten now, but Rockers and Mods only started fighting as the Rockers were annoyed at having some of their comments removed

  15. #15
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    my own mix of stock oil contains boiled linseed oil ,alkanet root to bring out the deep figure of the wood and a drier, terebine thinners.dries quickly enough to add coats daily.without the terebine drier its a sticky mess for days..
    more guns than you can shake a stick at!

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