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Thread: Custom Stock Oil

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    May I ask as we have some experts in the room when oiling what do you rest the stock on to stop it collecting dust or sticking to the surface, would hanging be the way to go and if so where do you attach the string to stop it rubbing on the wood.

    Some fanatic stocks there, I'm looking to oil a couple of stocks soon and re dust issue is a concern, also do you use a light scourer to rub the oil in?

    Many thanks for any advice on the above.

    Atb

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    IPSWICH
    Posts
    174
    I found using danish I rub the oil into the stock and rub it off litterally seconds later, it takes longer to build up a coat but it does work, it never leaves the stock wet, neat Danish left on can take days to dry and be a right sticky mess , that happened when I first used it, the stain was lifting a little , so I put a slightly thicker coat on and left to dry, it took days to finally become non tacky, so the wipe on wipe off method seems to work OK, if it lets oil in thats as much as it will accept at that time , you can put 10+ coats on easily in a day. More if you havde time, just check it's not tacky at all and away you go again.

    Don't take my word for it, give it a try, if it wipes on and totally wipes off , what have you lost except a couple of dabs of Danish, it goes an awful long way being so thin

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Walsall, Midlands Uk
    Posts
    11,157
    I use these handles when working on shotgun furniture - I make them from scraps of wood to fit a specific action inlet ( there are tons of them in the workshop, although some handles will fit several types of furniture ). I can clamp the handle in the vice when chequering - and the hole in the end is for hanging the wood up when it's had a heavy coat of colour, or has been stained, painted or whatever.
    For a rifle stock, I either leave it in the chequering cradle, or use a slimmed out broom handle that I've drilled a series of holes in that lines up with most of the popular actions I work on. Clamping it in the vice as above.







    Put on heading 270, assume attack formation

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Thank you for the recommendation and advise, I'll look to apply thinly and maybe use a hanger to hold in the air.

    Atb

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Watford
    Posts
    1,472
    Quote Originally Posted by maza View Post
    Danish oil, It will look stunning once the coats start to build.
    Don't use the Danish oil you get from B&Q etc. This is filled with hardeners and other crap. Once you use it it seals the wood
    and leaves a shiny-ish surface. Then once it's done you won't need to or can't oil it again.

    The Danish oil to use is like The English Walnut Oil but without the hardeners and crap that comes with it. I wish I hadn't used
    B&Q Oil on my ProSport as I am not keen on the finish.

    I bought a CS500 stock and used the proper oil but at the moment I can't remember what it's called. I will find out shortly what it
    is exactly called. I gave it a few coats as you with Walnut oil and it looks stunning.

    I went through a spell where I tried loads of different oils on Walnut stocks and to be honest my favourite is English Walnut oil.
    I also use CCL oil on them after I have used the English oil.

    Tru Oil is bloody hard work to get the perfect finish, and providing you like a very shiny stock. I did one on my HW100 and it does
    look good. I wouldn't do another with it.

    So from me I recommend English Walnut Oil.

    Just found the one I used on my CS500 stock:

    https://www.shirearchery.co.uk/shop/...ry/danish-oil/

    Ade
    Last edited by StellaArtois Sr; 12-06-2023 at 03:22 PM.
    Shooting Air Rifles is like being a pubic hair on a toilet seat.
    Eventually someone comes a long and P's you off.
    They usually have a PCP

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