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Thread: Custom Stock Oil

  1. #16
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    Jul 2012
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    durham
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    Boiled linseed for me, I've even used it on guitar bodies after stripping the finish a durable easy applied and smells great.

  2. #17
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    May 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapid7Nick View Post
    Always had good results with CCL conditioning oil. Although I wouldn’t use there walnut stain again.
    Never use walnut stain. Even if the stock is primed and 100% ready, results can differ massively

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    Walsall, Midlands Uk
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    Quote Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
    Thanks for all the suggestions, seems there are many ways to treat a stock!!

    Might try a wax finish to start with, as I don't have a suitable area for oiling and drying etc.
    Don't use a wax, it's the cheap and cheerful way of tarting up a stock and it'll soon wear off.
    Put on heading 270, assume attack formation

  4. #19
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    May 2020
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    ECKINGTON PERSHORE
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    Quote Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
    I have just acquired a CS600 stock, what would be the best oil to protect it and maintain?

    Many thanks.
    You will get many recommendations regarding stock oil but many of them are not really suitable for stock maintenance. The first thing you will need to establish is what the wood is finished with, if it's a varnish then it's another matter, oil will not penetrate the varnish and will leave a sticky mess if some of the available propriety oils are used. In this instance, a good beeswax polish is the answer.
    Should the wood be oil finished then an oil is the answer, as you are asking which oil to use it suggests you have little or no experience with oil finishing so ease of use is a consideration and that can only be satisfied with raw linseed oil preferably artists grade which has been refined rather than boiled. Raw LO that is not absorbed by the wood will not go gummy where others can if left on the surface. If a little colour is required, alkanet oil made from raw LO will provide a colour that will darken slightly with each coat.
    In 50 years of finishing wood of all types I only use natural oils and waxes as I have absolutely no faith in other products

  5. #20
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    Aug 2016
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    Melton Mowbray
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    Wood has been finished for thousands of years and hence there are many preparations for doing the job.

    Use what your happy with, if not sure practice on an off cut.
    Repariere nicht, was nicht kaputtist.

  6. #21
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    May 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil54 View Post
    [B]Wood has been finished for thousands of years and hence there are many preparations for doing the job.
    [/B]
    Use what your happy with, if not sure practice on an off cut.
    So it has, but not with some of the crap posing as stock finish available today.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kingston
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    In case you don’t know, if using oils like linseed, the rags can self-ignite if left balled up. Either douse in water and bin when you’re done or spread out flat to dry.
    It's all forgotten now, but Rockers and Mods only started fighting as the Rockers were annoyed at having some of their comments removed

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    bedford
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    my own mix of stock oil contains boiled linseed oil ,alkanet root to bring out the deep figure of the wood and a drier, terebine thinners.dries quickly enough to add coats daily.without the terebine drier its a sticky mess for days..
    more guns than you can shake a stick at!

  9. #24
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    Apr 2020
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    Winsford
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    673
    Another vote for ccl

    Does a good job.

    Heres how I do mine mate

    https://youtu.be/UoK6e8zrd2w

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
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    Worcester
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    Certainly many different ways to treat a stock.

    From Custom Stocks it appears it comes with one coat of Tru-Oil followed by several coats of Danish Oil, so this will probably be the route I take.

    Thanks for all your suggestions. 👍

  11. #26
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    May 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by willhollin View Post
    Certainly many different ways to treat a stock.

    From Custom Stocks it appears it comes with one coat of Tru-Oil followed by several coats of Danish Oil, so this will probably be the route I take.

    Thanks for all your suggestions. 👍
    If you take that route you will end up regrretting you did not listen to better advice. Truoil is a polyurethane type varnish that will seal the wood surface and make it impervious. If you put Danish oil which is adulterated linseed oil on top of Truoil it will take ages to cure and will go gummy because the oil cannot pass through the Truoil to be absorbed by the wood.

  12. #27
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    Jan 2020
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    Worcester
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    I wonder why they use this method? Seems pointless sealing it first if that's what tru-oil does?

  13. #28
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    Dec 2008
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    bedford
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    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    my own mix of stock oil contains boiled linseed oil ,alkanet root to bring out the deep figure of the wood and a drier, terebine thinners.dries quickly enough to add coats daily.without the terebine drier its a sticky mess for days..
    this stock was was done with the above mix.
    more guns than you can shake a stick at!

  14. #29
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    Aug 2001
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    Walsall, Midlands Uk
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    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    my own mix of stock oil contains boiled linseed oil ,alkanet root to bring out the deep figure of the wood and a drier, terebine thinners.dries quickly enough to add coats daily.without the terebine drier its a sticky mess for days..
    I used a mixture fairly similar to yours to finish this pair of Hollands.


    Put on heading 270, assume attack formation

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    bedford
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    1,576
    very nice,lovely bit of wood that.
    more guns than you can shake a stick at!

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