Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 28

Thread: Pillar drill help on Kral Knight in Devon

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590

    Thumbs up Pillar drill help on Kral Knight in Devon

    Hi everyone,

    I'm having some difficulty with a Kral Knight, the power is 8ftlb even with the power adjuster at max, its 6ft when at lowest. So I've been speaking with bagnallandkirkwood whom I have to say have been brilliant, the rear action has two pins holding the hammer adjuster in place.

    I've managed to remove the top one but the other pin at the bottom is a different type of tamper proof, bagnallandkirkwood have said that no-ones been into one of these types of anti tamper, to their knowledge.

    They said, I need to sleeve a pillar drill (to protect the internal thread) and drill out the locking pin and use an Allen key to turn out the residual steel locking pin.

    I unfortunately don't have a pillar drill, but just wondering if anyone local in Devon could kindly help me remove this locking pin, so I can at least get the gun up to 10ftlb.

    It's been tampered with before, as some of the screws we almost burred so badly that's it's been difficult to sort. I'm nearly there but without a pillar drill I'm a bit stuffed. I didn't want to buy a pillar drill, as they are quite expensive and wouldn't have much use for one other than this job and room is a premium as it is.

    Any assistance in removing the locking pin would be most appreciated, I'm happy to pay for time and help and can travel daytime to most places in Devon.

    Many thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pembroke, Pembrokeshire, South West Wales
    Posts
    390
    Have you got a photo of the AT at the bottom? I have done a few Krals and have removed a brass plug from below the hammer adjuster locking screw. Once drilled out it reveals an Allen head which you remove to then remove the hammer adjuster. In my experience this bolt can be very very tight.

    There was nothing special about the AT though, just another brass plug, monitor the depth you are drilling so you don't drill straight through the bolt beneath, but it's no big deal if you nick it, I have done it once and still plenty of depth in the Allen to get a good purchase.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pembroke, Pembrokeshire, South West Wales
    Posts
    390
    Also you do not need a pillar drill, I used my trusty Makita. Make sure the drill bit you use is not too big, start small as once you are through the plug you will see a little cavity underneath. Once you are at the right depth step up the drill bit a couple of sizes and either wonder the Allen plug out to remove the AT, or wiggle what's left of the brass plug out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Hi Dakine

    Many thanks for the help, much appreciated, yes this is what bagnallandkirkwood thought and expected, but they then said it was a shear bolt.

    So they suggested a pillar drill, I've had a pm giving an alternative option to the hammer adjuster, which may be a good option but I'd still need a pillar drill, but I could at least send the part off to be drilled.

    I'll have to look for a hoster to upload images too, so I'll have to do that tomorrow.

    Yes the top screw and bottom trigger rod mount were quite stuck, but a blowtorch sorted the glue and they came out ok fortunately, as the previous owner had burred the top screw head, but it's now out.

    I could put a small drill inside with a steel roll pin to protect the thread, just to see if the top comes off to reveal the grub screw head, but Ive had 2 people say it needs a pillar drill and it's a shear pin unfortunately.

    I'll get the pics up tomorrow.

    Many thanks.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pembroke, Pembrokeshire, South West Wales
    Posts
    390
    No problem at all. I'm off to bed now but I'll try my best to PM you a pick of my two Krals tomorrow evening which may help you or at the very least illustrate what you should come across under the AT.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Exeter
    Posts
    36,023
    I suspect when people say "it needs a pillar drill" what they mean is that the gun body needs to be secured in a jig or vice, so the alignment & depth of drilling can be more precise.

    You can put up pic's direct with postimages.org & copy/paste a hotlink.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    34
    Hi my jumbo had alloy plugs in witch drilled out easy with hand drill the the Alan screw came out this locks the ajusting nut the barrel Alan screw had locktite on it heated a old Alan key red and held it in to heat it up then a good one to loosen it

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Hi angrybear,

    Many thanks for the link to images much appreciated, I'll have to take some close up images, as the shear is deeply recessed so detailed images are difficult. But I'll upload if I can get a decent shot.

    I did try by hand, but i think I'm a little off centre. I'm awaiting a left hand reverse drill bit and hopefully that will help remove it.🤞

    Atb

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan's View Post
    Hi my jumbo had alloy plugs in witch drilled out easy with hand drill the the Alan screw came out this locks the ajusting nut the barrel Alan screw had locktite on it heated a old Alan key red and held it in to heat it up then a good one to loosen it

    Hi Alan's Many thanks for your thoughts, mine unfortunately is just a steel shear, so no Alan key recess unfortunately. I've seen a video of a guy removing the anti tamper on a 500 and his were steel too like mine. This is where I got the idea of the reverse drill bit remover from, heating I will try to soften the glue on the sheer, it's a good idea, as I've been using a blow torch to date..

    I'll take it slow, but everything seems anti tamper, there's two further shears holding the bottle valve and TP assembly, I know in the video they might have put two anti tamper sears in one recess!

    Anyway, as no one local had a pillar drill to offer, bodge job man is on a mission I'll get it out eventually but why they decided on a 500c bottle to set the power to 8ftlb I've no idea. If I can get it to 10ftlb I'll be a happy man, hundreds of shots at a reasonable consistency would be great.

    Atb

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    stratton
    Posts
    271
    have you drilled a pilot hole in the a/t already? if so you could drive a torx bit into the a/t and then turn it out!. heat it up first?.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Quote Originally Posted by billywhizz1 View Post
    have you drilled a pilot hole in the a/t already? if so you could drive a torx bit into the a/t and then turn it out!. heat it up first?.
    Hi billywhizz1 thanks for the idea, I had tried to just drill it out originally, but my drill bit wasn't bang on, so I think it's got a slight slant to it. So I'm going to try to run a new pilot hole and use the reverse drill bit, but if it doesn't work I'll try the torx bit.

    The problem is the shear is quite recessed about 1cm inside the threaded block. So it's difficult to get it on point, most torx bits will be to wide to fit inside the hole that I have.

    They've not made it easy for sure. If it was flush with the surface it wouldn't be so bad. But it's down a rabbit hole and not playing fair.

    I hope to have it out tomorrow if it goes well, if not I'll be painting the workshop blue with words.😅

    Atb

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    stratton
    Posts
    271
    sounds like its going to be fun(not). i have some torx bits that are a slim diameter and also long . if you get stuck give me a shout !. im not so far from you over in bude.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Quote Originally Posted by billywhizz1 View Post
    sounds like its going to be fun(not). i have some torx bits that are a slim diameter and also long . if you get stuck give me a shout !. im not so far from you over in bude.
    Hi billywhizz1, that's great many thanks and a kind offer, if I can't get any progress today I'll drop you a pm as youre about 40mins away and it's a nice drive 👍

    Very much appreciated.

    Atb.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Hi everyone,

    Just wanted to say thank you to all the members that have helped with this problem it is much appreciated ��

    In an update, a gent called Andy (gun engineer) not too far from me and I think a member of here, sent me a drill bit and steel guide to drill out the shear. It took 3 drill bits and 2 hours of drilling slowly to get it out! But eventually it's out, winding the hammer spring made no difference to power, only winding out reduced power to 460fps, so it must be at max.

    So Andy has kindly offered to take the gun and drill out the TP to enable the flow of air so the gun gets up to 10/11ftlb.

    I can't imagine why Kral restricted this gun so heavily limited, a .177 doing 8ftlb is very low.

    Anyway, hopefully Andy can help sort it and I can finally get this gun sorted.

    Its been so good having members help and give their time to this, it's been a troublesome one for sure, but good to know there's help out there!

    A big thank you to all��

    I'll update again once we've managed to sort the gun.

    Atb

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Taunton
    Posts
    84
    Not a problem mate. I'm not sure I qualify as an airgun engineer but I can get around most things, there are far more qualified people on here. We will fix it next week for you I'm sure.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •