Pillar drill help on Kral Knight in Devon

[billywhizz1]

well done Andrew E. its great too have guys like you on the forum who will help when its needed.

[kash2001]

well done Andrew E. its great too have guys like you on the forum who will help when its needed.

Absolutely guns nowadays seem to either be to low or to high but having skilled engineers able and happy to assist is fantastic.

Knowledge and skill are invaluable to our sport, looking forward to getting things sorted and enjoying a day of shooting when it's done 🤞

Atb

[deejayuu]

Interesting read, thanks. Had a look at one running too close to limit. Taking coils off hammer spring eventually got it down.
The rear trigger pivot threads were M7 with helicoil reducing to the required M6. Below that the brass anti tamper was 6mm but not threaded.
Just wonder if your variable TP is working OK.
Oops! ignore me. It was a Puncher.

[Neil54]

Most of the krals a Puncher.
Kral Puncher Breaker Maxi
Kral Puncher Breaker NP-02

The block is the same.
Different bottle adaptors and bits and pieces.

On Krals the anti tamper was a lead slug, then a brass disc held in place with a helicoil and now a steel shearoff screw.
Using a threaded rod with a hole down the middle to centre a drill is the best way to drill these. Removing them still requires a way of removing the screw.
Down a rabbit hole as previous post.

[kash2001]

Hi Neil54

Yes typically mine was the steel shear version and it is very difficult to drill out without the proper equipment. The back one on mine near the trigger release is out now, thanks to Andy and his drill guide.

Unfortunately there are another 2 to remove to alter the TP, there is a power adjuster also but this doesn't appear to affect the power much, going from about 4/5ftlb to 8ftlb I'm guessing, it's like the older RWS scimitar power adjuster etc.

To get the other two anti tampers out to get the bottle and valve access, really requires a pillar drill, hence my request.

So the journey continues, also the mags are a really really poor fit, they are just too tight for the block, I had to sand the mags down to get them to fit.

It's odd workmanship on this value of gun, it seems accurate for the amount of shots I've put through it, and very consistent, but just no power. However it sits well in the shoulder, otherwise I'd have given up on this much sooner.

Hopefully with Andy's help it'll come good and it'll be a great addition, but it's a toothless tiger at present.

Atb

[Berber]

There is a good YouTube video showing how to do this with a left handed drill bit, a vice and a hand drill.

[kash2001]

Hi thanks for that, I've seen a couple of vids, one had the same issue I have with the steel shear. He also found it difficult but if you have a link, it'll be appreciated.

I used a good drill bit given by Andy and the mounting disk and it took almost 2 hrs to drill out, it was like hardened steel, and the bit didn't cut in very fast at all.

The reverse drill bits I've tried myself and they didn't cut into it by electric drill, so if this person did it by hand I'd be impressed how they got the drill to bite and reverse it out, as I think they are also glued in too, especially when it's a steal shear.

But I'm no machinist nor mechanic in that way. Most jobs i can do, but I don't have a lot of tools for this work, only impact drivers and standard electric drills.

Atb

[Alan's]

The valve on my jumbo had a 2mm top port and a large front port it was ample to make power may need a stronger hammer spring or some washers it would need drilling out if you want to fit a reg