Get a HW95 breech bolt, nut and shims.
HW95 cylinder, barrel, piston, end block, Rekord trigger......yep....bin it off and get a 95, Pete.
On a serious note, although it would entail some re-engineering work, go the HW bolt route.![]()
Hi all,
Thinking out loud on this one, I have far too many projects to be getting on with (plus other stuff), but as this would be hopefully getting done (I haven't asked him yet though) by my local guru engineer, I have a BSA Lightning mk1 that I obtained from Chris at one of the bashes, now then if I was to fit a breech bolt, which bolt do you think would be the best to go for, I personally think the BSA one looks neat and tidy and seems to do the job on my Mercury's and Supersport custom but I've read that all it does is pull the breech block to one side of the jaws?, I've seen the HW bolt conversion done on a Mercury, which I expect does the job nicely but looks ugly to me because it sticks out the side and requires the stock to be altered or do I go the Diana route with the hollow pin and bolt arrangement but still does the same as the HW, or is there another bolt setup I don't know about?
Your thoughts please chaps.
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
Get a HW95 breech bolt, nut and shims.
HW95 cylinder, barrel, piston, end block, Rekord trigger......yep....bin it off and get a 95, Pete.
On a serious note, although it would entail some re-engineering work, go the HW bolt route.![]()
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I've got one of each ready for when I find an engineer. The jaws would have enough material to machine out a hole for the BSA bolt. Why doesn't it pull Mercury's out? that seems a bit odd to me.
I would want the jaws machined on both sides so that the HW bolt would sit as flush as possible then cut to length. I will have to shorten the bolt 'cos it's for a Meteor.
Last edited by Dornfelderliebe; 17-02-2024 at 08:52 AM.
The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.
The Mercury bolt does not lock/thread into the breech jaw, it just has a nut and no locknut.
The result is that the pinch of the locking chisel rotates the bolt while cocking, ant it tends to work loose/unscrew.
On the HW, the bolt threads into the "opposite" fork of the jaw, so the nut works as a locknut.
Too many airguns!
Hmm tapping threads eh? I'll go with the HW item.![]()
The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.
Yep it's also a smaller diameter than the pin so would need a sleeve turning up to make it fit, the HW bolt is a much better solution. My 635 magnum i had the nut was always coming loose but the challenger i have now with the same hinge bolt arrangement does not for some reason.
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
I did the Diana conversion on my lightning xl tac, works perfect, also included some hw99 breech shims in it
Plinkerer and Tinkerer
The above is spot on. The HW system is far superior. Bowkett used to copy it on his BSA Meteor, Mercury, W&S conversions in the 1980's.
The other advantage of the HW system is that the bolt cannot rotate when the rifle is cocked. This results in a "cam" action when the bolt/pin rotates and causes additional problems.![]()