Weihrauch Screw In Blocks - Manufacturing Techniqe?

[Hsing-ee]

How do they make these things in the factory? Make up the tube and the block seperately, then screw the block in all the way then cut the scope grooves and mill out the trigger slot and drill the other holes? They are always so precisely done and sometimes they are not easily interchangeable.

I used to dislike the 'bayonet and tiles' system on the 95/85 and 99/50 but I think it is OK now. I like the way the tiles snap into place precisely.

However, the grub screw and trigger pins thing on the 30 is dreadful. Having to use a spring compressor on a 7fpe rifle because you risk cross-threading a tiny screw is a flipping joke.

[joffy]

Screwed together and then machined ....be a right bugger to get everything to line up otherwise

[Hsing-ee]

Screwed together and then machined ....be a right bugger to get everything to line up otherwise

Must be a lot of swarf!

It is very strong though, as with the BSA Airsporter and Mercury. Although the Weihrauchs have square ends, making things relatively straightforward, compared to the pointed and curved BSA blocks, which are a bit of a nightmare.

[TonyL]

And don't forget that, on the BSA one, there have been cases of the nut undoing from the trigger block, like poor old Pete once experienced.

I like the HW screw-in end block but also do not dislike the plugs. Re the 30, please also bear in mind that the front trigger guard screw also assists in securing duties.

[KWK1]

Must be a lot of swarf!

It is very strong though, as with the BSA Airsporter and Mercury. Although the Weihrauchs have square ends, making things relatively straightforward, compared to the pointed and curved BSA blocks, which are a bit of a nightmare.

There's a certain way I can put the BSA back block in a vise without damage and screw the action back on by hand. Do a trial run without the spring to see where the thread starts first.

[KWK1]

How do they make these things in the factory? Make up the tube and the block seperately, then screw the block in all the way then cut the scope grooves and mill out the trigger slot and drill the other holes? They are always so precisely done and sometimes they are not easily interchangeable.

I used to dislike the 'bayonet and tiles' system on the 95/85 and 99/50 but I think it is OK now. I like the way the tiles snap into place precisely.

However, the grub screw and trigger pins thing on the 30 is dreadful. Having to use a spring compressor on a 7fpe rifle because you risk cross-threading a tiny screw is a flipping joke.

I think the HW30 is easy. Just push it against the wooden edge of a work bench and put the screw in. I just turn it in with my fingers and you know it's not cross threading if you're turning it as said. Might be easier for some if it had an allen screw using an interchangeable bit driver. If the block is lined up to the tube right it's easy to catch a thread. Maybe that's where some have trouble. Lining it up first

[Waddy]

The worst thing for me about the screw in end blocks on the Wiehrauchs is the edges are so precisely machined that you can get a very nasty cut off them. Don't ask how I know this

As for the BSA pointed ones, I used to have an MDF jig that fitted the trigger block on a Mercury that went in a hi-lift jack, it worked very well. But now I've got an Airsporter I've found that I can screw it in by hand just by pushing the end of the barrel into a bit of old carpet & pushing down on the block with a bit of folded cloth.

I have even got a full length Ox spring in using that method & I'm not a big heavy chap either.


.

[TonyL]

Yep, never struggled with the Mercury, either.....muzzle into a cloth, wear a big, thick glove and job done. And, like Waddy, I'm no powerlifter.

Waddy - that glove advice might also help with the HW blocks.

[Hsing-ee]

Yep, never struggled with the Mercury, either.....muzzle into a cloth, wear a big, thick glove and job done. And, like Waddy, I'm no powerlifter.

Waddy - that glove advice might also help with the HW blocks.

I've done a few Mercurys and Airsporters, I just don't like the business of compressing the spring and having a curved block with a spike on it, unless you have three arms it's innatedly unstable. Air Arms guns are how it should be.

[TonyL]

Yep, the TX and ProSport are ridiculously simple!

As was my CZ634.

I do think the HWs with the tiles are also very safe, too, as you can usually get a big proportion of the trigger block in before taking up preload. Especially with a V-Mach style "short and stiff" spring.