HW35 Fettling

[TonyL]

So, just thinking about a couple of my 35s at the moment.

I have three later ones with the synthetic seals.

And two earlier ones. One's the old pre-safety warhorse.....I'll come to that later.

This relates to one I bought a few years ago but have only just got round to stripping. It's a single-sided safety version. Larger transfer port to suit the leather seal. Just prior to stripping it I had a couple of shots with it. Even though I didn't use the chrono, it was apparent that power is low. First shot was accompanied by a hell of a crack. Felt harsh - trigger finger was ringing!

Upon stripping - trigger was full of gunge and felt "sticky". Now flushed and lubed and feels fine.

Piston seal felt quite a loose fit - too "easy" to slide.

Cocking lever movement was impeded towards end of stroke. The knuckle was tight. Freed off and oiled. Now good. But cocking lever is difficult to re-engage and slide back in cylinder - some material to relieve.

Now, I was thinking of short-stroking it as I'm not after power and wanted to improve its manners. And then I remembered that the previous owner had given me the leather head and seal - the piston isn't the later type. Happy days! So re-fitting the leather seal will suit the larger TP better. Tighter fit will improve manners, as will a new breech seal, as that looks goosed too. I've searched out and located the leather head. Just need to inspect. It'll be nice to have at least one running on the leather seal.

Tinbum kit received on Christmas Eve. I'll need to cut the spring down. Kit looks lovely. I'd asked for the short stroking head(s). So, once this one's done, I might short stroke the other older one as I'd fitted the later piston to that five years ago. Or might search out an older piston and go back to leather on that one as well......

Will update as things come together...

[CapitalBee]

Tony, I have an older leather sealed 35 piston in my spares box. Unlikely to be used now. Give me a heads up if you do decide to go that way.

[TonyL]

Yes please, Mark. That would be lovely. Just let me know how much and how you'd want to do it and I'll happily give it a home. Thank you.

[TonyL]

Had to rush off earlier whilst doing the original post.......That harsh firing could be down to a number of things.....the breech seal definitely looks suspect, the piston was way too much of an easy-sliding fit, it's well documented that the larger TP and synthetic seals are not happy bed partners (although I had a happy anomaly once) and, maybe (but hopefully not) the leaky breech syndrome. Replacing the breech seal and swapping back to leather will sort three of the four and return that old school classic charm. I'm in two minds as to whether to do the breech. I did the other one a few years ago. Knowing the previous owner of this one, he may have already done it. I'll try and get hold of him and see if he remembers doing it.

And that cocking lever needs sorting.....the round "horn" will enter the hole okay but the lever is very reluctant to go backwards. It's looking like the lever needs material removing for around an inch forward of the round "horn". It'd be a quick and easy fix to simply fit one of the newer levers as I did recently on the other old one, but this lever looks good and it'll keep the cost down.....

[look no hands]

Would you like to borrow my HW35 customisation tool Tone?

[CapitalBee]

Would you like to borrow my HW35 customisation tool Tone?

Pete, does it take a 9" or 5" cutting disk? Or is it the oxy-acetylene version?

[CapitalBee]

Had to rush off earlier whilst doing the original post.......That harsh firing could be down to a number of things.....the breech seal definitely looks suspect, the piston was way too much of an easy-sliding fit, it's well documented that the larger TP and synthetic seals are not happy bed partners (although I had a happy anomaly once) and, maybe (but hopefully not) the leaky breech syndrome. Replacing the breech seal and swapping back to leather will sort three of the four and return that old school classic charm. I'm in two minds as to whether to do the breech. I did the other one a few years ago. Knowing the previous owner of this one, he may have already done it. I'll try and get hold of him and see if he remembers doing it.

And that cocking lever needs sorting.....the round "horn" will enter the hole okay but the lever is very reluctant to go backwards. It's looking like the lever needs material removing for around an inch forward of the round "horn". It'd be a quick and easy fix to simply fit one of the newer levers as I did recently on the other old one, but this lever looks good and it'll keep the cost down.....

Tony, any drag of the cocking arm over the spring? I'd had one in the past that had the cocking arm bent from someone trying to free a seized piston.

[gtfreight]

Tony, any drag of the cocking arm over the spring? I'd had one in the past that had the cocking arm bent from someone trying to free a seized piston.

If the cocking arm needs replacing I think one from a 99 will fit as an alternative.

[Shed tuner]

I'd not rush to short stroke it unless you want really low power. Down to 7FP, it'll be fine as is. and reduce cocking effort Ironically, synth seal and large port should work fine with low preload/weak spring and 7 FP.

if you shorten the stroke, the large port will become more problematic. can be somewhat addressd though reducing preload.

Why not just sleave the port and be done with it ? Leathr will still be fine at 3.0mm. Also I'd "assume" that it may be suffering from porous breech if it's very harsh. the loose (unless it's silly loose) seal won't do that on it's own. But maybe would with a dodgy breech seal in combination...

[look no hands]

Pete, does it take a 9" or 5" cutting disk? Or is it the oxy-acetylene version?

Only 5" but still produces lots of sparks

[Waddy]

I'd take the easy route, new cocking link, loctite breech fix & new red breech seal, no short stroke & leather piston seal.






.

[Brad3]

So, just thinking about a couple of my 35s at the moment.

I have three later ones with the synthetic seals.

And two earlier ones. One's the old pre-safety warhorse.....I'll come to that later.

This relates to one I bought a few years ago but have only just got round to stripping. It's a single-sided safety version. Larger transfer port to suit the leather seal. Just prior to stripping it I had a couple of shots with it. Even though I didn't use the chrono, it was apparent that power is low. First shot was accompanied by a hell of a crack. Felt harsh - trigger finger was ringing!

Upon stripping - trigger was full of gunge and felt "sticky". Now flushed and lubed and feels fine.

Piston seal felt quite a loose fit - too "easy" to slide.

Cocking lever movement was impeded towards end of stroke. The knuckle was tight. Freed off and oiled. Now good. But cocking lever is difficult to re-engage and slide back in cylinder - some material to relieve.

Now, I was thinking of short-stroking it as I'm not after power and wanted to improve its manners. And then I remembered that the previous owner had given me the leather head and seal - the piston isn't the later type. Happy days! So re-fitting the leather seal will suit the larger TP better. Tighter fit will improve manners, as will a new breech seal, as that looks goosed too. I've searched out and located the leather head. Just need to inspect. It'll be nice to have at least one running on the leather seal.

Tinbum kit received on Christmas Eve. I'll need to cut the spring down. Kit looks lovely. I'd asked for the short stroking head(s). So, once this one's done, I might short stroke the other older one as I'd fitted the later piston to that five years ago. Or might search out an older piston and go back to leather on that one as well......

Will update as things come together...

Not wishing to distract from your post but I have been thinking of doing similar.
Mine is the rare HW35L or Luxus Monte Carlo as it was sometimes called. Actually better grain beech with nicely chequered grip woodwork which I describe as being halfway between the regular beech stock of the 80s and the luxury Walnut export.
I was lucky to not get a leaky breech, but I've basically worn the gun out. Literally 100s of Rooks during the 80s and a few too many plinking sessions.
I am thinking of buying a new one, with the benefits of the latest seal and TP design but fitting it into this superb Luxus stock as I hate the new stocks compared to this one.

[Shed tuner]

Not wishing to distract from your post but I have been thinking of doing similar.
Mine is the rare HW35L or Luxus Monte Carlo as it was sometimes called. Actually better grain beech with nicely chequered grip woodwork which I describe as being halfway between the regular beech stock of the 80s and the luxury Walnut export.
I was lucky to not get a leaky breech, but I've basically worn the gun out. Literally 100s of Rooks during the 80s and a few too many plinking sessions.
I am thinking of buying a new one, with the benefits of the latest seal and TP design but fitting it into this superb Luxus stock as I hate the new stocks compared to this one.

what bits are worn out ?

[Mach 1.5]

ARC Tuning are doing some good drop in kits for the 35 these days. Mach 1.5

[john79]

ARC Tuning are doing some good drop in kits for the 35 these days. Mach 1.5

does that include a glided piston Paul?